• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.90-111
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of Jangyongyoung's military night training on February 12 (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the positions and roles of the low-ranking soldier belonging to Jangyongyoung, and the composition and characteristics of military uniforms for each role were examined. The results ascertained by the historical research on the military uniforms are as follows. Deungronggun, noeja, sunryeongsu and daegisu who were placed in front of the king's Seojangdae were the low-ranking soldiers belonging to Jangyongyoung. The soldiers who escorted the king around Seojangdae were lowranking soldiers belonging to Jangyongyoung. The military uniform of the deungronggun was consisted of a jeolrip, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and black shoes. The low-ranking soldier's heopsu suggested that it could also be a sochangui. He carried a sword and a red lantern. Noeja were divided into a sinjeonsu and a jujangsu. The military uniform of the noeja was consisted of a Jujeolrip, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon, and black shoes. Sunryeongsu were divided into a sinsigisu and a younggisu. The military uniform of the sunryeongsu was consisted of a jeongeon, a black heopsu, red gweja, indigo jeondae white haengjeon and black shoes. He carried a sword and a red lantern. The military uniform of the daegisu was consisted of a jeongeon, a black heopsu, blue gweja, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and black shoes. He carried a sword and a flag. The soldiers surrounding Seojangdae and the seongjeonggun defending the fortress were the Chogun. The military uniform of the chogun was consisted of a jeolrip, a black heopsu, houi, indigo jeondae, white haengjeon and straw shoes. Houi was applying the five directional colors: the east is blue, the west is white, the south is red, and the north is black. He carried a sword and a gun. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could produce contents by reflecting on these historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the standards for 3D content production or actual production. Samples of form, color, and material according to the times and status were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and the feature were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.123-137
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• 2016

Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽], which was published in the late Joseon Dynasty, was representative reinterpretation book of Ga-ryae [家禮] and it was a widely used and cited in the late Joseon Dynasty. This book contains Confucian values about the ritual of Confucian scholars of Joseon Dynasty. This study is a description of historical investigation and production of men's mourning dress based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽] the result, of the study shows empirical attitude of Confucian scholasr in the late Joseon Dynasty. Through industrialization, traditional culture has been able to survive through preservation. Wearing the traditional mourning dress is not the only way to embody the traditional values in the modern society. It is will be necessary to study contemporary mourning dress as a reflection of traditional value.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.79-93
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• 2005

'Chunhyangjeon' was written by an anonymous author in the mid-period of Chosun Dynasty. The personalities of characters and the styles of dress of men in 'Chunhyangjeon' recreated their clothing to one that is more similar to the descriptions in the literature text can be described as follows. Lee, Mongyong was a young man, but he was a man of integrity and honor. In outwear he wore 'Hat(Heulip)' and 'Dopo' and Taesahae. When he earned his title, he wore 'Pokdu' with flowers and 'Angsam(ceremonial robe)'. After he became a secret royal inspector, in order to disguised on himself as a poor man he wore worn-out 'Heuklip' and 'Dopo' and Jipsin. Bangja who was a servant of Lee, Mongyong wore 'Beonggeoji' and 'Kwaeja' and 'Mituli'. Byun, Hacdo was a rash and greedy character, he wore 'Oklolip' and 'Cheopli' and 'mokhwa' when he was on the way to his post. Yeokjol was low grade official wore 'Jeonlip' and 'Cheopli' and 'Red shoulder band' and 'Mituli'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.11-28
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• 2014

Chinyoung(親迎) is one of the detailed procedures of a wedding ceremony, of which the bridegroom visits the bride's home to receive and bring her to his home. And, Procession Illustration (班次圖) is a type of drawing that shows how people of various social classes are arranged in their predetermined positions in a royal ceremony. Thus, 'Chinyoung Procession Illustration(親迎班次圖)' refers to the drawing of the march in the course of Joseon's royal wedding ceremony, in which the bridegroom receives and brings the bride to his home. This paper aims to reconstruct the Chinyoung Procession Illustration for a princess as an image, which has never been done. There are no drawings or pictures of the princesses' Chinyoung Procession, but only written records. Thus, we completed the Procession Illustration by dressing the participants in accordance with their social classes and arranging them in the march. The arrangements were based on historical records of social classes, positions, number, and costumes. As for the princesses' weddings in the late Joseon period, a total of 18 wedding records remain. We selected Princess Bok-On's (福溫公主: 1818~1832) wedding as the subject of reconstruction as it had the greatest number of participants. In addition, due to the great number of participants, this study limits its focus to the female participants, with the male participants to be examined in future research. The result confirmed that the number of participants in Princess Bok-On's Chinyoung Procession was 184, including the bride and bridegroom, and the number of female participants was 26 in total, including the princess and women placed around her. The women participants wore Rip(笠), Neoul(羅兀), Jeonmo(氈帽), Garima(加里磨), Noeui(露衣), Hwaleui(豁衣), Dangeui(唐衣), Jeogori(赤古里), Chima(赤亇), Malgun(袜裙), Daedae(大帶), Onhye(溫鞋), Dokhye(禿鞋).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.32-46
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to propose a solution for Goguryeo costume and its materials, colors, patterns, and accessories, which have not been dealt with in precedent studies and were treated as irrelevant subjects. The specific object of reconstruction with identification from the historical viewpoint is noble woman's costume(Yu and Gun) on the mural paintings of Jang-Cheon No.1 tomb in Jip-An province. As above, the reconstruction process of Yu(Jacket) and Gun(Skirt) worn by noble woman as depicted on the mural painting of the Baek-Hee-Gi-Ak-Do(百戱伎樂圖) in Jang-Cheon No.1 ancient tomb is suggested in this study. The most important issue for consideration was how to represent and exhibit it so that it resembles the mural painting as closely as possible. And the problems that arose at the time were the ratio and silhouette, which revealed disparities between the one on the mural painting and the costumes reproduced with identification from a historical viewpoint. The most difficult aspect of this work was due to the fact that the actual mural paintings were not available for verification. Therefore accuracy on details such as structure, materials, colors, patterns and accessory were difficult to obtain. So a further analysis of patterns, silhouettes, materials and colors are required for the precise representation of costume and dress on the mural painting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.85-98
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• 2005

This Study is to analyze characteristics of costume change of according to the status of character succeeding the investigation of the ceremonial costume change in historical TV dramas that The Empress Myungsung entered. For this study, the costume images among historical TV dramas, that Myungsung entered, '500 years of Chosun Dynastyv, Taewongun(1990, MBC)', 'The Glorious Dawn(1993, KBS1)', 'The Empress Myungsung(2001, KBS2)'were used: The characteristics of the costume change of main character are as follows. First, main character's costume has been increase gradually in number and item. Second, Especially in the last work,'The Empress Myungsung', the royal costume based on historical evidence in aspects of silhouette, but it didn't according to the historical costume in aspects of color and textile. Nevertheless the costume reveals the status of each person significantly. Third, the costumes of the recent historical drama appears as a optical symbol that represents historical view point and different interpretation of each drama. Therefore the costume according to the status of the character wrong from the historical point of view. Consequently, TV costume in historical drama Myungsung entered has been focused on the beauty of the screen and dramatic effect than historical viewpoint. So the costume have been to be an essential visual part by means of the symbol revealed the purpose.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.