• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Design Studies Conference
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• 1999.05a
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• pp.94-95
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• 1999

문화의 발전과정에서 새로운 문화창조의 한계에 도달하거나, 대공황이나 세기말처럼 퇴행적 상황에서는 복고주의가 나타나는 경향이 있다. 한국도 절대적인 경제침체의 영향으로 복고주의적 경향이 일상생활뿐만 아니라 문화전반에 유행하고 있다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• Korean Architects
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• no.9 s.365
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• pp.100-107
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• 1999

• Korean Architects
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• no.8 s.364
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• pp.58-65
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• 1999

• The Korean Publising Journal, Monthly
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• s.253
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• pp.10-10
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• 1999

한 시대의 문학베스트셀러는 대중의 상상력과 감수성이 어느 지점에서 작동하는지를 민감하게 반영하는 지표다. 80년대 문학이 '이념'과 '역사'라는 거대서사를 정점으로 움직였다면, 90년대 문학은 '일상'과 '소비문화'의 미시서사로 하강했다. 성과 사랑이라는 고전적 주제 외에 여성의 정체성, 민족주의적 감수성, 흔들리는 부권과 가정에 대한 복고주의 등을 주제로 한 작품들이 베스트셀러 목록을 점령했다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1645-1654
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• 2001

패션은 지속적으로 변화하며 이는 새로운 패션 트렌드의 출현을 의미한다. 특히 지난 1990년대 패션은 사회, 과학, 경제, 문화 등 사회환경의 급격한 변화로 새롭고 다양한 가치의 추구로 패션분야에서도 새로운 것에 대한 욕구가 급증하였다. 따라서 본 연구는 1990년대 패션 트렌드를 분석하여 패션의 특성을 파악하여 미래의 패션을 예측하고 대응하기 위한 자료를 구축하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 패션트렌드는 향후 예측되는 유행테마, 스타일, 색채 , 소재 , 디테일 등을 제시하고 있는데 , 본 연구에서는 시대상을 보다 심층적으로 파악하기 위하여 패션테마만을 집중적으로 분석하고 고찰하였다. 일반적으로 패션테마로 제시되는 개념 이 나 용어들은 동시대의 사회현상과 패션 분야에서 요구될 것으로 예상되는 내용이 비교적 자유분방하게 제 시 하고 있으므로, 패션 테마의 분석과 고찰은 패션의 실체를 이해하는데 매우 유용하다 하겠다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 패션테마로 제시된 용어들을 수집하고 분석하여 , 패션경향는 물론 패션의 실체를 파악하고자 하였다. 연구 대상은 1990년대 10년간의 패션트렌드로 설정했으며, 분석자료는 구체적으로 국내패션정보사인 K·F·S와 S· F·I에서 제시한 트렌드지를 사용하였다. 연구결과 1990년대 패션은 종래의 상식적인 디자인 개념을 넘어서서 여러 가지 다채로운 스타일들이 역사적 시간과 여러 문화의 공간을 오가며 교류되는 포스트모더니즘적 인 특성을 강하게 나타냈으며 , 이러한 경향은 매우 깊고 광범위하게 1990년대 의 패션트렌드에 반영되어 나타났다. 최근의 첨단 과학 기술의 발달과 이에 반하는 자연으로의 회귀욕구와 인간의 본질을 추구하는 인식의 전환 또한 패션 트랜드에 영향을 주었다. 이들을 포용하는 패션 주제는 크게 자연주의, 세계주의, 미래주의, 복고주의 등으로 분석되었다. 이 와 같은 패션 테마들은 각각 독립 적 이 기보다는 서로 상호 보완하고 조화를 이루는 가운데 1990년대 패션으로 형상화되었다. 이러한 1990년대 패션 경향의 분석 결과는 동시대의 사회상을 반영하는 동시에 패션의 특징인 주기성과 반복성을 그대로 보여주고 있었다. 이러한 연구 결과는 패션의 특징을 파악하고, 21세기 패션 경향을 보다 정확하게 예측하고 제시할 수 있는 중요한 자료로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.99-112
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to examine the relation between the cyber environment and the contemporary fashion design by studying the formative feature characteristics of cyber character's fashion in the on-line game from the point of the contemporary fashion design. The research method is to understand the general concept of the cyber-space and characters and then is to contemplate characteristics and formative features of game character's fashion of the cyber-space mainly with cyber characters that were closely linked with features of the contemporary fashion design. As a result, the formative feature of game character's fashion of the cyber-space was to be classified into four categories; reactionism, mechanism, futurism, sensualism. First, reactionism takes traditional elements with symbolical and compromising form. Second, mechanism has a tendency of deconstruction due to its vitality and sense of velocity for objects through employing geometrical forms and new materials. Third, futurism deviates from the established framework. It makes use of high-tech materials and has surrealistic and futuristic features. Fourth, sensualism does emphasize sensual parts of the body and intends to convey aesthetic atmosphere through association of ideas. Character's fashion of the cyber on-line game is unnatural and artificial in its forms and wear for the lack of knowledge for costume's structure, and it shows just simplified design that accept extremely partial fragment of features in the contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1649-1659
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• 2002

It is anticipated that, in the 21st century, aesthetic sense will be altered radically with the introduction of new value systems and ethical standards. At the beginning of the 21st century, new aesthetic senses and identities have already emerged and exerted influence to the society, arts and fashion trends. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of the transitional period of the 21st century. This study employed the qualitative analysis and the main aesthetic characteristics of the 21st transitional period were found as hybrid, technicism, neo-retro, new naturalism, and multi-nationalism. The transitional fashion in the 21s1 century mirrors the post-modern trends with diversity and indeterminacy as the basis of changes. It is expected that this pattern will continue to extend persistent and dominant influence to the future fashion industry. In the subsequent study, quantitative analysis wi]1 be conducted to verify the aesthetic characteristics analyzed in this study.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.48
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• pp.91-116
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• 2012

Writing is a process and work of expressing one's own feelings and thoughts that are not contained in rigid forms; however, the literary trend and environment during the Late Joseon was not so tolerant. A revivalist approach to writing was dominant during this period, which was summarized in the expression that "Prose must be written in the style of Qin and Han; and Poetry in that of High Tang. "Hence, it was practically a taboo to express one's raw emotions and disregard the custom and regulations of writing. Nevertheless, literati, who got tired of the dogmatic rule of Neo-Confucianism at the time that refused to see the changing world and the pseudo-archaic writing that merely imitated the outside and was empty inside, attempted new styles of writing to escape from the model or example and what was familiar. Lee Yong-hyu, who was in the middle of such transformations, learned the trends of Late Ming and Early Qing through the newly imported Chinese books and created his own style that reflected his personality. His writings refused the Neo-Confucian system of thoughts, which was a dominant ideology of the time, paid attention to the human nature and emphasized the restoration of the self. His writing could be described as being anti-pseudo-archaic and criticized the pretentious trend of the time. He argued that in order to restore the true self, one must recover the innocent mind that was bestowed on human by heaven/nature (cheon-li, 天理), and for this purpose, one must straighten out one's mind (sim, 心). His argument is similar to that of "Yangming School of Mind," which could be represented by the phrase, "Mind is the Principle (心卽理)." Yangming School claimed that moral principle existed within one's mind; and this was in stark contrast with the Neo-Confucian idea that "principle (li)"was external and transcendent, and was spoken by the great Confucian masters and written down in Confucian Classics. By denying the externality of the principle and underscoring its immanence, the idea that centralized Confucian Classics and canons was dismantled. Lee Yong-hyu's writing styles that denied the model and emphasized the restoration of the self was influenced by such thoughts. However, one must neither hastily judge that he is an advocate of Yangming School of Mind, nor determine the anti-pseudo-archaic writers' ideological basis as the philosophy of Yangming School. Once it is rigidly defined, be it Zhu Xi's philosophy or Wang Yangming's philosophy, it becomes another model that one must abide by, and again the self disappears. Thus, Lee Yong-hyu defied any kind of model that claimed authenticity or precedence and wished that people would live independently as oneself, and left such claims and wishes in writing. That is the reason, after more than two hundred years later, we still read his writings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.64-73
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• 2015

This paper examines the characteristics of Hungarian women's costumes under the Reign of the Habsburg Empire in the $19^{th}$ Century. Since the beginning of the $19^{th}$ century, the Habsburg Empire inflicted strong oppression on Hungary. Under the influence of the European upper class, exaggerated and sumptuous costumes were fashionable in the Hungarian Aristocracy. They preferred blouses decorated with colorful embroidery, pleated sleeves, gorgeous beads and lace, long pleated skirts with velvet borders, corsets decorated with delicate embroidery, coats adorned with lace, and capes. However, Hungarian nationalists protested against the Habsburg Empire's oppression; consequently, Hungarian national costumes expressed a sense of resistance and solidarity. The results of the study are as follows. The Hungarian women's costumes were different from women's costumes of the Habsburg Empire in regards to headdress, bodice, apron, pattern and shoes. The Hungarian women's headdress consists of the parta and veil. The bodice is richly adorned with colorful embroidery and differs from skirts in color and material. The Hungarian women's apron is distinct from the Habsburg Empire as a unique Hungarian item. Finally, Hungarian costumes are characterized by the Oriental pattern and short boots with metal heels.