• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.623-634
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to explore the culture of clothing of subgroups among adolescents by residence. In this research informants were selected by selective sampling and ethnographic methods such as field work depth interviews and open-ended descriptions were employed to interpret their culture of clothing. The results were followed. First our adolescents enjoyed the popular song as leisure and these popular culture was their inspiration source of style. Second adolescents were grouping the Kang-Bouk and the adolescents group preferred the style of popular singers and the Kang-Nam adolescents group preferred the musical competence of singers and specific type particularly Hip-Hop style. And in acception pattern of fashion style the Kang-Bouk groups accepted the recent fashion style continuously and wanted to be striking while the Kang-Nam groups accepted the various Hip-Hop styles and sought to comfort and suitability of that style. Third to consider the connotations of marketing the Kan-Bouk groups shopped on the street perceived as fashionable among peer groups and sought to the lower price but the Kang-Nam groups used the shops selling their original ip-Hop style without regard to the price and sites. Although there existed a two years' difference between the first and the second research(1996-1998) subgroups among adolescents according to the residence have had their own culture of clothing constantly. And a segmentation tendency by clothing behavior within the same adolescent generation is revealed more visibly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.110-128
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of Chinese shadow puppetry costumes. Literature study and case analysis were conducted using books, research papers, and materials from the Xi'an shadow puppetry museum. Based on the Chinese traditional costumes, the shape characteristics are utilized with the intaglio and embossing techniques, and the complex and unnecessary details are omitted to express the costume image in a characteristic and simple manner. Second, colour was used according to the traditional Chinese symbolic colour concept, and the brighter the colour, the higher the role's status. The colour was also used to express identity and character. In addition, relatively vivid and highly saturated colours were used for the transparent effect of the shadow puppetry. Third, a role's status is indicated by the density and completeness of the patterns; the higher the role's status, the more complex and sophisticated the patterns, and the lower the status, the simpler the patterns or no patterns are used. Fourth, the faith for blessing expressed in the shadow puppetry is a representative folk auspicious culture. The repertoire of the shadow puppetry and the patterns on the costumes worn by the puppets, express the culture in an implicit way to symbolize the meaning of auspicious things.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.15 no.9
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• pp.61-71
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• 2015

Developing cultural contents in cultural creativity industry is very practical process recently. Research about Jeju's legend and myth should be the basic theory for cultural contents development based on local cultures. Jeju Naewotdang Musindo 10 gods paintings are unique colored pictures, appointed as Jeju folklore material No.7 and national important folklore material No. 240. Jeju-Do is remained the springhead of absorbed into unique culture for a long time because of Jeju's geographical environment condition. Jeju Musindo could be related with the symbol of Jeju's myth images and the springhead of emotions of our typical country people. It would be analysed by Wucius Wong's design style theory for approaching visual image and symbolic meaning. This research about Jeju Naewotdang Musindo 10 gods paintings could provide design analysis methodology for further theoretical studies about Jeju's legend and myth for Jeju's unique cultural contents.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.443-456
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• 2017

The Geumran-gasa (Kasaya) and Jangsam of the monk Samyeong are historical relics and were designated as object No.29, a Buddhist costume of the Joseon Dynasty, by the National Folklore Cultural Heritage, in 1973. In 1984, after being treated for the purposes of washing and preserving the shape of the garments, the object was kept in the Temple Museum of Pyochungsa, as their holding institution. However, regular inspection conducted by the Cultural Heritage Administration in 2013 determined the need for a re-treatment. The Geumran-gasa had been originally made with 25 strips, but it had been separated into two parts and many pieces were lost. A part of the collar in the Jangsam was lost as well. Therefore, both relics needed to be restored. The re-treatment process involved pre-investigation, washing, reinforcement fabric dyeing, restoration, and fumigation. In particular, we focused on reinforcing the damaged parts and restoring the missing parts by applying advanced materials and methods in order to restore the original form as much as possible. This conservation is the result of the re-treatment of the cultural properties by replacing the old material used in past treatments and applying advanced methods under the basic principle of reversibility in conservation treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.739-748
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• 1994

These days the Korean costume becomes the formal dress to be worn on particular occasions. The Westernization of life style, inculding dress, has made the costume of wearing traditional dress disappear from Korean's everyday life. This study is launched to investigate the precious textiles and materials of the past before they vanish; this study deals with the materials of folk costume in the early 20th century, preceding Westernization. The research method adopted in the study was interviews of fifth- five elderly persons living around the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province. The result was that costume culture in that area was poor because people living in the area were economically less well off due to meager agricultural products. There was no variety in the style of costumes to be worn for various occasions. It was also nothworthy that because of no diversification in naming, only one representative word was used to name several types of costumes. On the other hand, it was discovered that the people in the Mt. Kumo area had religious aspirations stemming from their folk beliefs concerning costumes. They also had an attitude of saving money despite poor economic conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1634-1644
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• 2007

This study is to define correctly the concept of exotic image that evolved in domestic fashion since 2001 and to analyze the characteristics and current tendency of the domestic fashion items of the exotic image. Thus this study will be helpful in establishing an academic field of the exotic image in the domestic fashion industry which can offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The types of exotic image are #ecological#, #folk & ethnic costume#, #kitchy bricolage#, #womanish#, #period# types by analyzed with the elements of exotic images in the domestic women#s fashion brand. The exotic image in domestic fashion market in the middle of 2000s is the results of fusion phenomena among various trend styles, and through the compromise and mixture of different elements, exaggerations, and historically different times of old and new. In conclusion, the contemporary concept of exotic image is expanded by the sum of many contributing images. They are the folk ethnic costume image originating from various different cultures and also the fusion images of folk ethnic costumes from non-urban, not-modern, not-industrialized images compromised with unfamiliar codes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.166-188
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• 1973

This thesis chiefly to investigate and study about the historic transition of the dress and ornament which is based on the costume of the folk dance. The folk dance is devide into the styled of the Court and common people I. Investigated and studied on the description of Hak-mu (the crane), Ryun-wha-dae (the lotus blossom) and chu-yong dance (a mask drama) which are the typical models among the folk dance on the view of the scale and history of playing. This research materials are made on abstract of Ak-Hak-Gyae-Bum (the pattern of the music which was compiled by Sung-hyun on the King of Sung-Jong of Yi-dynasdty) and selected from the conservation material and playing in the National Classical Music Bureau nowadays. I am sure the understanding the style of common people is to investigate and research the folk dance which is specified and conserved by cultural property control Bureau. Generally Bong-San mask dance is the typical mask drama on the view of the scale and transmitted, which occupies the wide range of the folk dance. So I selected it as the research material. I am interested in the historic origin and the structure of the dress and ormant conserved till the nowadays and so can catch the hidden conception about the colour and concern of religion in the Korean peculiar living consciousness. From this point, the study of the classical folk costume is activated in this part and I hope this poor article will become a small assistance for another study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.