• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.277-282
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• 2022

Whitening effect of the extract of Phaseolus angularis (PA) shell was investigated for its potential application as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect, which is related to whitening, was 76.4% at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. Cell viability of melanoma cells was measured to test toxicity of the PA shell extract at concentrations showing at least 90% viability. In addition, western blot and RT-PCR assays of the PA shell extract showed concentration-dependent decreases of MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2 and tyrosinase protein and inhibitory effect of mRNA expression. These findings suggested that extract from PA shell has great potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient with whitening effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.201-210
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• 2017

Scutellariae baicalensis (S. baicalensis) has been traditionally used for anti-inflammatory effect. This study was designed to compare the antioxidant and whitening effects of S. baicalensis extract and its fermented extract by Leuconostoc mesenteroides (L. mesenteroides). Fermented extract of S. baicalenins was prepared by inoculation of L. mesenteroides after the extraction procedure with 70% ethanol. S. baicalensis extract and its fermented extract was investigated via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Simultaneous qualitative analysis of two bioactive components; baicalin and baicalein was achieved by comparing their retention times ($t_R$) and UV spectra with those of the standard components. Cell viability test results indicated that both S. baicalensis extract and its fermented extract were non-toxicity. In DPPH radical scavenging ability, $SC_{50}$ values of the fermented extract was $34.43{\mu}g/mL$ as a result of more effective than S. baicalensis extract. In nontoxic concentration rage, fermented extract of S. baicalensis showed strong melanin production inhibitory effect in ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cell ($IC_{50}=68.17{\mu}g/mL$). These results suggested that fermented extracts of S. baicalensis has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an antioxidant and anti-wrinkle and whitening effects.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.10
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• pp.1136-1143
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to investigate the biological activities of an aqueous extract of Angelica gigas (Ag) fermented by Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Sc). First, the soluble solids of the F/3 group, in which the Ag was fermented by Sc for 3 days, decreased from $1^{\circ}Bx$ to $0.9^{\circ}Bx$. On the other hand, the pH increased with the number of days of fermentation. The result of a TLC experiment confirmed that it gradually decomposed into a low-molecular weight sugar form upon fermentation. The total phenolic compounds and flavonoid contents were higher in the fermented group than in the non-fermented group. K and Ca contents were increased by fermentation in the following order: F/3, NF, and F/0 groups. Decursin and decursinol angelate contents were highest in the F/3 group. The DPPH (${\alpha}$, ${\alpha}{\prime}$-diphenyl-${\beta}$-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging activity of the NF, F/0, and F/3 groups were 41.89%, 39.51%, and 60.26%, respectively. The inhibition activities of tyrosinase and lipoxygenase were stronger in the F/3 group than in the NF group. This experiment showed that the fermentation of Ag Nakai can lead to an increase in its antioxidant ability, physiological activity, whitening and anti-inflammatory effects. Thus, this oriental herbal medicine can be developed into a functional material that can be utilized in the development of cosmetic products in future.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1019-1027
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• 2021

There are a lot of efforts to develop new compounds having skin whitening effect from natural products. Sparassis crispa is a medicinal mushroom containing more than 40% β-glucan, which exhibits anticancer and immunostimulating effects. The aim of this study was to assess the availability of β-glucan extracted from cauliflower mushroom S. crispa as a skin whitener through the evaluation of inhibitory effects of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity and their mechanisms. B16F1 cells were treated with S. crispa β-glucan (10, 100, and 1,000 ㎍/ml, respectively) and α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH), simultaneously. Content of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity were determined. The expressions levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) were also measured by western blotting. Treatment with 10, 100 and 1,000 ㎍/ml S. crispa β-glucan and 200 nM α-MSH significantly decreased melanin synthesis by 13.9%, 18.7% and 39.5%, respectively, and tyrosinase activity by 15.6%, 26.9% and 43.2%, respectively, compared to the α-MSH alone group. In addition, S. crispa β-glucan inhibited expressions of tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2 and MITF induced by α-MSH. These results indicated that S. crispa β-glucan inhibited MITF expression, thereby reducing tyrosinase expression and inhibiting melanin production in B16F1 melanoma cells. Therefore, S. crispa β-glucan might be available as a skin whitener.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2023

In this study, Crocus chrysanthus (Herb.) Herb. bulb extracts were extracted by purified water and ethanol, and their antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were measured to see the possibility as a cosmetic material. The yield of the extracts was 1.8% to 6.0%, and the yield decreased as the ethanol concentration increased. DPPH free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activity was high at 91.97% at 625 ㎍/mL of 70% ethanol extract. The total phenol content was also measured at 447 mg/g, higher than other extraction methods. The whitening effect was confirmed through in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity. As the ethanol concentration of the extracts increased, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity increased, and 70% and 94.5% ethanol extracts showed high inhibitory activity. Therefore, the Crocus chrysanthus (Herb.) Herb. bulb extracts confirmed its potential as a cosmetic material through antioxidant and whitening effects.

• Journal of Plant Biotechnology
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.492-499
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• 2016

This study assessed the whitening and anti-aging effects of the Cistanche deserticola extract, to develop a cosmetic substance. The cell viability of the Cistanche deserticola extract was evaluated in B16F10 melanoma cells by the MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthaiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide) assay. The cell viability of the extract was determined to be 90% at 4mg/ml concentration. Furthermore, the tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase mRNA expression level were measured by RT-PCR, using the Cistanche deserticola extract treated B16F10 melanoma cells. At 4 mg/ml concentration, mRNA expression level of tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase was dramatically decreased to 80.9%, 37.6%, and 70.9%, respectively. The antioxidant activity of the Cistanche deserticola extract was determined by DPPH free radical scavenging. The DPPH free radical scavenging capacities ranged from 70.6% to 82.6%, when evaluated from 2 mg/ml to 10mg/ml concentrations. The effects of whitening and anti-aging of the Cistanche deserticola extracts were examined at 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 mg/ml concentration. Tyrosinase activities were inhibited from 66.8% to 78.5%, elastase activities were inhibited from 67.6% to 79.3%, collagenase activities were inhibited from 72.3% to 83.6%, and hyaluronidase activities were inhibited from 65.8% to 69.2%, respectively. These data suggest that the Cistanche deserticola extract is effective in whitening and anti-aging; therefore, it is considered to be a functional cosmetic material in cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2015

Until recently, the three conventional evaluation methods, which are instrumental (Chromameter$^{(R)}$ CR-400 and Mexameter$^{(R)}$ M18) and visual assessments have been used frequently for skin color evaluation. However, we took notice the potential of image analysis as a new tool to evaluate color change of skin. To reveal the reliability of the image analysis for the evaluation of whitening agents, 34 healthy female volunteers with hyperpigmentation were recruited, and the selected volunteers applied the whitening products containing Vitamin C twice a day in the morning and evening and received iontophoresis treatments once a week for 8 weeks. The changes in hyperpigmentation evaluated by Chromameter$^{(R)}$, Mexameter$^{(R)}$ and visual assessment were compared with the results from the image analysis. As with $L^*$ value trends of the analysis using Chromameter$^{(R)}$, the V value from the image analysis increased after applying the test products compared with baseline values. Furthermore, V value showed a positive correlation with $L^*$ value (r = 0.494, p < 0.01) and negative correlation with MI (r = - 0.683, p < 0.01) and VG (r = - 0.549, p < 0.01). Therefore, image analysis may be considered as an effective method to complement the limitations of visual assessment for whitening efficacy in Asians.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.651-661
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• 2021

Eruca sativa, called arugula, is a perennial plant in the Brassicaceae family, an edible plant commonly used in Italian cuisine. To study as a cosmetic material application E. sativa was extracted with 70% ethanol (ES). Then ES was fractionated using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butyl alcohol and water (EHex, EEA, ECHCl₃, EBuOH and EDW). EEA showed mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. ES, EEA and EBuOH showed inhibition of tyrosinase activity. As a result, ES is expected to have skin whitening efficacy. ES was applied to 0.05, 0.1% the toner and emulsion formulation to test the stability. The anti-microbial activity of eight bacteria and fungi including Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes which cause dermatitis and acne was evaluated. EEA showed effects in all of microorganisms. The toner and emulsion containing ES with 0.05, 0.1% were passed in the challenge test. At -20, 4, 25, 55 ℃ and daylight, there was no significant change on pH, viscosity for 4 months. However, emulsions had phase separation phenomenon at 55 ℃, so the base formulation needs improvement. In addition, through the skin penetration test, EEA penetrated 0.058% in 6 hr, predicting the clinical efficacy. This means that E. sativa can contribute whitening agent and the synergistic effect of preservatives.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.377-383
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• 2004

This study reviewed the application of an extract from mountain ginseng adventitious roots which had been grown through tissue culture as a cosmetic ingredient. The mountain ginseng adventitious roots were derived from mountain ginseng callus that was induced from mountain ginseng root whose origin is estimated to date back about one hundred years ago. The adventitious roots were separated from callus and grown in a 20 L bioreactor. In order to proliferate the adventitious roots, they were cultured for 5 weeks in bioreactor. Then the harvested mountain ginseng adventitious roots were dried and extracted. For verifying skin whitening effect of an extract from the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots in vivo, we performed the clinical test of it. The research showed the significant skin whitening effect of a mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract and the statistical analysis showed a significant difference (p<0.0001) between sample ($2\%$ mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract) and placebo. But, some saponins showed below $10\%$ inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. The extracts of red ginseng and ginseng which were the same concentration as the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract's showed little inhibitory effect of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B-16 melanoma. In DPPH test, Anti-hydroxyl radical activity of $0.5\%$ the tissue-cultured mountain ginseng adventitious roots extract was $86\%.$.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.225-234
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to confirm the skin whitening and UV absorption effects of bioconverted Beta vulagaris (BBE) using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum SM4, and the effects were evaluated by measuring total polyphenol content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), radical elimination activity (RSA), and tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI). TPC and TFC of BBE were 25.0 mg GAE/g DM and 8.05 mg QE/g DM, which were 1.3 and 1.1 times higher than hot-water extract (HWE) respectively. RSA, an indicator of antioxidant activity, and TAI, an indicator of skin-whitening effect, were 36.8%, and 68.6%, respectively, 1.1 and 1.2 times higher than that of HWE. UVA and UVB absorption of BBE were 21.4 and 87.6%, which was 1.4 and 1.7 times higher than that of HWE respectively. When main substances of BBE were analyzed using LC-MS/MS, kaempferol and isorhamnetin, a type of polyphenols known to have high antioxidant and skin-whitening effects, were identified. As a results, BBE is expected to be used as a functional cosmetic material as it has excellent antioxidant, skin whitening, and UV absorption properties.