• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.65-70
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• 2022

In this study, the anti-pigmentation efficacy of Panax vietnamensis (P. vietnamensis), a ginseng native to Vietnam, was confirmed. Melanin synthesis was repressed by ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis in B16F10 cells, melanocytes originated from mouse. At 250 ㎍/mL ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis, melanin contents were repressed by 64.04% compared to the control group. In addition, ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis downregulated tyrosinase activity and expression to 53.34% and 59.39%, respectively. As shown our result, ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis blocks α-MSH-mediated melanogenesis and is valuable whitening ingredients in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.365-372
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• 2022

Cellobiose is a dissacharide constituted by two glucose units joined by a β-('1,4') glycosidic bond that is produced by the decomposition of cellulose. This product exists naturally in plants and has been utilized in different industries as a food sweetener, and as a cosmetic and pharmaceutical material. In this study, the potential of cellobiose as a whitening cosmetic product was evaluated by analyzing autophagy induction and the inhibition of melanin production. A cytotoxicity test conducted in the human melanin-producing cell line MNT-1 with increasing concentrations of cellobiose revealed that this compound did not cause cytotoxicity at 20 mg/mL or less. Based on this, autophagy was firstly evaluated by immunostaining with the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) after treatment with 20 mg/mL of cellobiose. The subsequent confocal microscopy analysis revealed an increase in LC3 puncta, indicating induction of autophagy. In addition, autophagy was further confirmed by western blot analysis, which demonstrated that cellobiose converted LC3-I to LC3- ∏ in a concentration- and time-dependent manners. An analysis of melanin contents after cellobiose treatment at a concentration of 20 mg/mL during 7 days revealed that melanin production was reduced by more than 50%. Additionally, the expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins TYR and TYRP1 were markedly decreased after cellobiose treatment. Based on these studies, a cosmetic cream formulation containing cellobiose was prepared and the change in formulation was tested for 4 weeks, and it was confirmed that the appearance changed to liquid form at high temperature, but the pH did not change. In conclusion, the present research demonstrated that cellobiose activates autophagy and inhibits melanin production, and showed the potential of this product as a material for whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.442-446
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• 2019

We recently reported the characteristics of Chrysanthemum boreale MAKINO essential oil (CBMEO) at different harvesting stages and its in vitro antioxidant, whitening, skin regeneration, and antiwrinkle properties. In the present study, we investigated the effectiveness of cosmetic creams containing 0.1% of CBMEO in terms of wrinkle reduction and safety. The participants were 22 women aged 42 to 60 y with natural wrinkles. All the participants applied the CBMEO-containing cream to the eye area for 8 weeks. Visual observations of the skin by a dermatologist were used to assess the safety of the product, and improvements in skin wrinkles (roughness) were analyzed using a skin visiometer. Neither the CBMEO-containing cream nor the placebo caused abnormal reactions, such as erythema or allergies, during the test period. The CBMEO-containing cream-exposed test regions showed a greater reduction in the roughness index as compared with those of the placebo-exposed control regions. The R1, R2, and R3 indices showed a statistically significant decrease in the test regions as compared with the placebo control regions after using the cream for 2 weeks (p<0.05). Therefore, this study demonstrated that CBMEO-containing cosmetics are safe for human use and that they have skin wrinkle improvement properties. In the future, CBMEO may be a promising product for use in the development of functional anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.756-770
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• 2024

This study confirmed emulsion stability after performing antioxidant, whitening, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory efficacy evaluation to find out the availability of Sicyos angulatus L. (SA) which is designated as an ecological disturbance species as a functional cosmetic material. SA was extracted with Deionized Water (SAW) and 70% EtOH (SAE). Compared to SAW, SAE has excellent antioxidant efficacy by showing scavenging activity and SOD-like activity against DPPH radical and ABTS⁺ radical, and inhibits melanin production by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. SAW had no antibacterial effect on Escherichia coli (E.c), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S.e), Staphylococcus aureus (S.a), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P.a), and Cutibacterium acnes (C.a) strains, while SAE showed antibacterial activity by producing clear zones in E.c, S.e, P.a, and C.a strains except S.a. In LPS-treated RAW 264.7 cells, SAE showed efficacy against anti-inflammatory by inhibiting the production of NO by inhibiting the expression of iNOS and COX-2 than SAW. It was confirmed that the SAE-added emulsion was not separated at temperatures of 4℃, 25℃, and 50℃, the pH and viscosity did not change significantly in numerical terms, and the particle size was similar to that of the control emulsion, so it did not affect the formulation. Based on these results, we suggest its potential as a new material for functional cosmetics research.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.57 no.4
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• pp.365-371
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• 2014

In the present study, we investigated the biological activities of Xylosma congesta leaf ethanol extract (XCO) using a variety of in vitro and cell culture model systems for anti-melanogenic, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activities. First, XCO markedly inhibited ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. Secondly, XCO marginally induced procollagen synthesis in CCD-986SK cells. Thirdly, XCO dose-dependently suppressed lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells. XCO did not affect cell viability at different concentrations used in this study, indicating that XCO-mediated inhibition of melanin, procollagen and NO synthesis is not mediated by cytotoxicity. Finally, XCO was found to exert anti-oxidant effect. Taken together, these findings demonstrate for the first time that XCO possesses anti-melanogenic, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant activities, and suggest further evaluation and development of XCO as a functional supplement or cosmetic that may be useful for whitening skin, reducing wrinkles and treating inflammatory responses.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.250-260
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• 2012

In the present study, the antioxidative and antibacterial activities of Artemisia princeps Pampanini (A. princeps Pamp.) extract were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of A. princeps Pamp. showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}=12.27{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of A. princeps Pamp. extract on $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ systems were investigated using a luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of the extract ($OSC_{50}=0.33{\mu}g/mL$) had a 5 times greater ROS scavenging activity than L-ascorbic acid ($1.50{\mu}g/mL$), known as a water soluble antioxidant. The cellular protective effects of fractions of A. princeps Pamp. on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were examined. The aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner. The inhibitory effects of A. princeps Pamp. extract on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficiency. The ethyl acetate fraction demonstrated a 7 times higher tyrosinase inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}=29.20{\mu}g/mL$) than albutin, known as a whitening agent. The antibacterial activity of ethyl acetate fractions against various normal skin flora were measured. The results showed that the antibacterial activity of the fraction was the highest on Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, and Propionibacterium acnes. Antioxidant substances were isolated and purified from the ethyl acetate fractions. Eupatilin and jaceosidin were identified. These results indicate that the extract/fractions of A. princeps Pamp. can function as antioxidant and/or antibacterial agents for the skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.455-464
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• 2018

This study investigated whether the whitening effects of fullerene serum occurred through improvement of melanin production and skin tone and evaluated its potential for use as a cosmetic material for adult women aged 30-55 with dull skin color and pigmentation. Subjects were divided into a control group with fullerene-less serum (B) and an experimental group with serum containing 0.1% fullerene (A) and evaluated over 8 weeks. Visual assessment and measurement of skin conditions (melanin index, skin brightness) were conducted before use of and 4 and 8 weeks after use of the product, and a questionnaire survey and safety assessment were conducted at the end of the experiment. The results revealed that the highest decrease was 0.37% in the experimental group (A) after eight weeks of use of the product, but that this difference was not statistically significant. Moreover, no significant differences were observed upon inter-group comparison. Evaluation of changes in the melanin index and inter-group comparison revealed a significant decline in the experimental group (A) at all time points. Additionally, the $L^*$ value (skin brightness) of the experimental group (A) showed a significant increase (improvement) after eight weeks, while in inter-group comparison revealed a significant increase (improvement) at all time points (4 and 8 weeks later) (p<0.05). Based on a questionnaire survey of efficacy, positive response rates such as improvement of the target parts on week 8 were high in terms of 'improvement of skin color.' Moreover, the safety assessment revealed no adverse reactions. In conclusion, serum containing 0.1% fullerene revealed improved melanin production and skin tone (brightness) and confirmed its potential for use as a cosmetic material with brightening efficacy. Taken together, the results of this study indicate systematic investigation of the effective application and cosmetics formulations of this product are warranted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.572-580
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• 2017

The contents of phenolic compounds in water and 40% ethanol extracts from Okkwang (Castanea crenata) chestnut bur solid (OCS) were $11.24{\mu}g/50{\mu}g$ solid and $10.28{\mu}g/50{\mu}g$ solid, respectively. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline- 6-sulfonic acid) radical decolorization activities of water and ethanol extracts were 85% and 100% as well as 87% and 86% at a solid content of $50{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The anti-oxidant protection factors (PFs) of water and ethanol extracts at a solid content of $200{\mu}g/mL$ were 1.22 PF and 1.45 PF, respectively. Thiobarbituric acid reactive substance were 83% in water extract and 73% in ethanol extract at a solid content of $200{\mu}g/mL$. The inhibitory activities against xanthine oxidase in water and ethanol extracts were 54% and 43% at a solid content of $200{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The inhibitory activities against ${\alpha}$-glucosidase were 95% in water extract and 96% in ethanol extract at a solid content of $50{\mu}g/mL$. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity was 27% in ethanol extract at a solid content of $200{\mu}g/mL$. The collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities as anti-wrinkle effect were 93% and 11% in water extract as well as 94% and 56% in ethanol extract at a solid content of $200{\mu}g/mL$. Hyaluronidase inhibitory activity as anti-inflammatory effect of water and ethanol extracts were 96% and 52% at a solid content of $200{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The results show that extracts from OCS can be used as a functional resource with antioxidant, anti-gout, carbohydrate degradation inhibitory, whitening, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammatory activities.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.444-453
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• 2018

Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.), of the Poaceae/Gramineae family, is a common grain in the surrounding area. It has been used in Ancient Egyptian medicine and it has been used worldwide for many years as food and as an ingredient in beer. Barley has been reported to have anti-inflammatory, anti -carcinogenic and anti-diabetic effects. So far, a lot of research has been done on barley but the effects of fermented barley seeds with lactic acid bacteria have not been studied largely. In this study, we investigated the effects of ethanol-extracted barley seeds after their fermentation with lactic acid bacteria. The biological activities of fermented barley seeds with lactic acid bacteria and non-fermented barley seeds were analyzed for total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, DPPH radical scavenging, superoxide dismutase-like activity and tyrosinase inhibition. These results showed that fermented barley seeds with lactic acid bacteria have more advanced anti-oxidant and whitening properties than non-fermented barley seeds. Hence, we suggest that fermenting barley seeds with lactic acid bacteria can be an impressive material in the food and cosmetic industries.