Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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A Comparative Study on the Functional Cosmetic Materials of Water and Ethanol Extract of Sicyos angulatus L.

생태교란종 가시박(Sicyos angulatus L.) 열수 및 에탄올 추출물의 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 비교 연구

  • Ye-Jin Jang (Department of Cosmetic Science, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Su-Bin Hwang (Department of Cosmetic Science, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Ji-A Byeon (Department of Cosmetic Science, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Un-Gyo Shin (Department of Cosmetic Science, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Si-Hyun Park (Department of Cosmeceutical Science, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Subeen Yoon (Biosensor Laboratories Inc.) ;
  • Jin-Tae Lee (Department of Cosmetic Science, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Ildae Song (Department of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, Kyungsung University) ;
  • Yong-Jin Kwon (Department of Cosmetic Science, Kyungsung University)
  • 장예진 (경성대학교 화장품학과) ;
  • 황수빈 (경성대학교 화장품학과) ;
  • 변지아 (경성대학교 화장품학과) ;
  • 신운교 (경성대학교 화장품학과) ;
  • 박시현 (경성대학교 화장품약리학과) ;
  • 윤수빈 (바이오센서연구소(주)) ;
  • 이진태 (경성대학교 화장품학과) ;
  • 송일대 (경성대학교 제약공학과) ;
  • 권용진 (경성대학교 화장품학과)
  • Received : 2024.05.20
  • Accepted : 2024.06.30
  • Published : 2024.06.30
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Abstract

This study confirmed emulsion stability after performing antioxidant, whitening, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory efficacy evaluation to find out the availability of Sicyos angulatus L. (SA) which is designated as an ecological disturbance species as a functional cosmetic material. SA was extracted with Deionized Water (SAW) and 70% EtOH (SAE). Compared to SAW, SAE has excellent antioxidant efficacy by showing scavenging activity and SOD-like activity against DPPH radical and ABTS+ radical, and inhibits melanin production by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. SAW had no antibacterial effect on Escherichia coli (E.c), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S.e), Staphylococcus aureus (S.a), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P.a), and Cutibacterium acnes (C.a) strains, while SAE showed antibacterial activity by producing clear zones in E.c, S.e, P.a, and C.a strains except S.a. In LPS-treated RAW 264.7 cells, SAE showed efficacy against anti-inflammatory by inhibiting the production of NO by inhibiting the expression of iNOS and COX-2 than SAW. It was confirmed that the SAE-added emulsion was not separated at temperatures of 4℃, 25℃, and 50℃, the pH and viscosity did not change significantly in numerical terms, and the particle size was similar to that of the control emulsion, so it did not affect the formulation. Based on these results, we suggest its potential as a new material for functional cosmetics research.

본 연구는 기능성 화장품 소재로서 생태교란종으로 지정되어있는 가시박 (Sicyos angulatus L., SA)의 이용 가능성을 알아보기 위하여 항산화, 미백, 항균, 항염증 효능 평가를 수행한 후, 에멀션 안정성을 확인하였다. SA는 초순수 (SAW)와 70% EtOH (SAE)로 추출하였다. SAE는 SAW와 비교하여 DPPH radical 및 ABTS+ radical에 대한 소거 활성과 SOD 유사 활성이 보여 항산화의 효능이 뛰어나며, tyrosinase의 활성을 저해하여 멜라닌 생성을 억제하였다. SAW는 Escherichia coli (E.c), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S.e), Staphylococcus aureus (S.a), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P.a), Cutibacterium acnes (C.a) 균주에 대한 항균 효과가 없는 반면, SAE는 S.a를 제외한 E.c, S.e, P.a, C.a 균주에서 clear zone이 생성되어 항균 활성을 나타내었다. LPS를 처리한 RAW 264.7 세포에서 SAE는 SAW보다 iNOS 및 COX-2의 발현량이 억제됨으로써 NO의 생성량을 억제하여 항염증에 대한 효능을 나타내었다. SAE을 첨가한 에멀션을 4℃, 25℃, 50℃의 온도에서 분리 현상이 관찰되지 않고, pH와 점도는 수치상 큰 변화가 없었으며, 입자크기가 대조군 에멀션의 입자와 유사하므로 제형에 영향을 끼치지 않음을 확인하였다. 본 연구 결과를 기반으로, 기능성 화장품 연구에 새로운 소재로서의 활용 가능성을 제시하고자 한다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 연구는 교육부의 지방대학 활성화 사업비를 지원받아 수행되었다.

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