• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.163-170
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• 2019

This study utilized the wearing test of subjects and a preference survey to determine wearing preference on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, slopping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to five domestic clothing construction books. A total of 15 blouses were made and tested by different bodices and sleeve types. The wearing test of subjects had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing as well as evaluated the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The preference survey was given to 100 females and was conducted using photos with combinations of three types of sleeves and shoulder angles in a survey under the same conditions. The average shoulder showed that set-in with the highest score in the wearing test was also preferred in the preference survey. The slopping shoulder evaluated the highest score in the wearing test by mirror; however, the preference survey showed that raglan was the most preferred choice. The squared shoulder showed that raglan with a high score in the wearing test by mirror was also preferred in the preference survey.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.299-314
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.617-625
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• 2016

In women's clothing the shoulders are distorted and exaggerated. Consequently, the wearers' bodies are transformed and interpreted according to modern standards. We therefore refer to this aspect of women's clothing as the power shoulder. This study aims to analyze the differences in sensibility images on variations in the shoulder shape of power shoulder jackets. Nine samples were examined that involved combinations of three variations of the shoulder height and three variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. Four factors were selected: attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. Among these factors, attractiveness is the most important. The study results indicated that changes in shoulder height acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on all four factors. In contrast, changes in shoulder width acted as a major effect that had an independent influence on attractiveness, personality, and activity but not on self-respect. It also had an influence on the interaction effect of attractiveness, personality, activity, and self-respect. We anticipate that this study will help individual customers select clothing that is suitable for their preference and body shape because it is now possible for them to estimate images of power shoulder jackets.