• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.533-541
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• 2004

Atopic dermatitis, also called congenital fever, is a allergic eczema of chronic itching disease. It is a recurrent and familial disease and appears on a wide age group from infant to adult. It is very common, and the ratio of occurrence is about $9{\~}l2\%$ of a child. However. it is showing trend of continuous increase by social and natural environment, food culture, and life style, recently. The human skin plays a barrier role against a physical and chemical stimulus from external environment. According to the latest study, the decreased amount of ceramide in horny layer impairs the bier function and moisture-maintaining function of skin in atopic dematitis patient. Ceramide is a kind of the sphingolipid in which a fatty acid is connected to sphingosin. Ceramide constitutes about $40\%$ of total lipid between keratinocytes and has the function of defense wall and building regular structure to suppress moisture vaporization in horny layer. In horny layer of skin a comified cell is composed of multi-layer structure of a brick shape, and, as for this cornified cell, it is strongly connected by ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid. Here, we described the effects of a cream containing ceramide on the recovery of skin harrier function of atopic dermatitis patient. The safety and efficacy of latex and liquid formula were evaluated as cosmetics for atopic dermatitis. The latex products was composed of intercellular lipid components-ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acid-to restore skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis patients. The liquid one contained beta-glucan, magnolia extracts, and licolice extracts, which have skin immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory effects. It is also confirmed that their possibility on new cosmetic market of atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.311-321
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• 2005

Tea (Camellia sinenis) is a popular beverage consumed worldwide. Since green tea, mainly consumed in Asia, has various biological activities, green tea components became one of the most favorite candidates as a functional materials for cosmetics and functional foods. The biological activities of green tea for skin cue have been ranged from protection of epidermal cells to the stimulation of extracellular matrix (ECM) biosynthesis. Green tea polyphenols (GTPs), which are active ingredients of green tea, possess anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic and immune potentiation properties as well as antioxidant. They also modulate intracellular signal transduction pathways. GTPs decrease ultraviolet (UV)-induced oxidative stress, thus suppress mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and apoptosis in keratinocytes. In addition, GTPs prevent the Induction of inflammatory mediators, such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), interleukin-8 (IL-8), and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) by tumor necrosis factor alpha $(TNF{\alpha})$ or chemical treatment in keratinocytes. GTPs treatment protects from chemical-or UV-induced skin tumor incidence in animal experiment. Besides, GTPs stimulate keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation of normal and aged epidermal cells, resectively, and suppress matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) release. According to the progress of formulation study, green tea components will be guaranteed materials for the more effective skin cue products.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.13-17
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• 2017

To develop a new functional agent for cosmetics, we investigated the anti-aging activities in fibroblasts of casuarictin. The anti-aging effect of casuarictin in CCD-986sk cell was as follows: it inhibited ROS expression increased by Ultraviolet B and suppressed pro-collagen expression. Also, casuarictin had inhibited Matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression. Therefore, the results suggested that casuarictin has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with a anti-aging effect.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.141-147
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• 2018

This study aimed to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, and kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol types contained in grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE). It utilized grape stems discarded after harvest to measure the effects of GPSE on skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, and anti-inflammatory activity on the damaged skin of HR-1 mice induced with ultraviolet B (UVB), and to verify the applicability of GPSE as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The polyphenol was extracted from grape pruning stems with 80% EtOH, and then the extract was used while storing at $-20^{\circ}C$, after filtering, concentrating, and freeze-drying it. The content of an active ingredient of GPSE was analyzed using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). From 53 kg of the grape pruning stem specimen, 2.34 kg of the EtOH fraction extracts were extracted to achieve a 4.42% yield ratio. Analysis of the active ingredients showed 0.28 mg/g of procyanidin B3, 12.81 mg/g of rutin, 0.51 mg/g of quercetin, and 8.24 mg/g of kaempferol. After UVB irradiation on the dermis, to confirm the degree of inhibition of collagen synthesis, we examined the protein expression of MMP-9 using immunohistochemical staining. The results of this study confirm the existence of active polyphenol types, such as rutin, kaempferol, quercetin, and procyanidin B3, in GPSE. Moreover, the study found that GPSE has anti-collagenase effects and it decreases the effects of UV damage on skin barrier function. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and it has high utilization potential as an ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Asia-Pacific Journal of Business Venturing and Entrepreneurship
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.217-240
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• 2023

For a while, Functional cosmetics, Cosmeceutical cosmetics, and Derma cosmetics have gained trust and become popular due to the consumers' strong interest in ingredients & efficacy. It's remarkable that Clean or Vegan brands are growing fast because they are emphasizing on different values from the other cosmetic brands. It's needed to attempt to analyze the influence relationship between consumer lifestyle and social value in these changes, and to find out whether the consumption of vegan cosmetics is related to satisfying the need for self-expression in a social atmosphere where ESG is emphasized on. This study analyzed the effect of lifestyle types and self-expression needs on the purchase intention of vegan cosmetics by mediating social values for cosmetics consumers. Lifestyle types were classified into appearance-oriented, health-oriented, and fashion-oriented. For empirical analysis, 321 questionnaires collected from cosmetics consumers living across the country were used. SPSS v26.0 and PROCESS macro v4.2 were used to analyze based on a single mediating model as a single mediator. As a result of the analysis, first, lifestyle types and self-expression needs, excluding appearance-oriented types, were found to have a positive (+) effect on social values. Second, it was found that social value had a positive (+) significant effect on the purchase intention of vegan cosmetics. Third, appearance-oriented, health-oriented, trend-seeking lifestyle types and self-expression needs were all found to have a positive (+) effect on the purchase intention of vegan cosmetics. Fourth, social values were found to mediate lifestyle types, self-expression needs, and purchase intentions, except for appearance-oriented types. Appearance-oriented consumers do not directly affect social values but affect purchase intentions, suggesting that appearance-oriented consumers may not be significantly affected by product-related social values. In a comparison of the relative influence size using standardization coefficients, self-expression needs had the greatest impact on the purchase intention of vegan cosmetics when mediating social values, and health-oriented ones had the least impact. The academic implications of this study include contributing to consumer behavior research by providing insights, mediation mechanisms, and consideration of the niche consumer sector, and directing further research into the cosmetics industry beyond forming marketing strategies and sustainable business practices.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1116-1124
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• 2020

In this study, in order to evaluate the possibility of applying apple leaf extract as a cosmetic material, we conducted an experiment by extracting with 70% ethanol. Apple leaf extract is analyzed by GC/MS, and toxicity is evaluated through polyphenol, flavonoid content and DPPH radical scavenging activity, antioxidant, and cell viability (MTT assay) OK, and nitric oxide (NO). It was confirmed that the NO production amount decreased 4.6 times in the group treated with the apology leaf extract through the measurement of the production inhibition of), and the anti-inflammatory effect was investigated. The total polyphenol content was 78.80 ± 0.25 mg /g and the total flavonoids were 65.25 ± 6.62 mg /g. It was confirmed that the DPPH scavenging activity increased sogonun at 79.8 ± 0.99,% at an extract concentration of 0.25%, 88.13 ± 0.89% at 0.5%, and 96.83 ± 2.00% at 1%. The cell viability was evaluated at 91.19 ± 3.49% even at a high concentration of 1000 ppm, confirming a viability of 80% or more. As a result of component analysis of GC-MS, it can be used as an antioxidant cosmetic material such as catechol (5.65%), DL-Gluciol (12.05%), Ascorbic acid (2.41%), Phytol (13.88%), Hexanoic acid (5.47%). Conceivable. The result of this experiment will be used as an important basic material in the development of natural functional cosmetic materials using apple leaf extract.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.303-312
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• 2022

In this study, Cyperus rotundus (C. rotundus) was fractionated into ethyl acetate to identify α-cyperone, a representative indicator, and its ethyl acetate fraction were evaluated to confirm the possibilityas a functional cosmetic ingredient. As a result of HPLC analysis, it was confirmed that the content of α-cyperone was 5.243%. In order to verify the inflammatory relief effect of the ethyl acetate fraction from C. rotundus (EAFC) and α-cyperone, it was confirmed that nitric oxide (NO) production inhibitory ability in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced an inflammatory reaction with lipopolysaccharide (LPS). Real-time qPCR analysis confirmed inhibition of mRNA expression level of inflammatory factors, IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, COX-2 and iNOS. As a results of conducting a clinical study using a simple cosmetic formulation containing EAFC, it was confirmed that the skin irritation stimulated by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) was calming and relieving itching. Through these results, it is believed that the C. rotundus can be used as a natural cosmetic ingredient that has the effect of inhibiting inflammation and relieving itching.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2018.04a
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• pp.64-64
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• 2018

생물전환(Bioconversion)은 천연소재의 기능성을 증대시키기 위한 방안으로 많은 연구가 진행되고 있으며 다양한 산업에서도 활용되고 있어 유용미생물을 기반 차세대 기술로 각광받고 있다. 이러한 기술의 도입은 식품은 물론 의약품 및 화장품 산업에서도 활발히 사용되고 있으며, 특히 최근 기능성 제품에 대한 소비가 급증함에 따라 그 중요성이 높아지고 있다. 산초(Zanthoxylum schinfolium)는 limonene, citronellal, phellandrene 등의 다양한 유효물질을 함유하고 있으며 유효성분들로부터 유래되는 항산화 활성과 항암활성, 항균활성 등의 효능을 지니는 것으로 보고된바 있다. 본 연구의 생물전환 공정에 사용된 유산균들은 전통 발효식품으로 알려진 다양한 젓갈류로부터 분리하였으며, 16S rDNA 염기서열 분석을 통해 유전학적 특성을 확인하였다. 또한 확보된 유산균들을 사용하여 산초(전북 진안군) 분말의 발효공정을 수행하였으며, 산초의 최적 추출조건을 선정하고 추출물을 제조하여 생물전환 공정 전 후 활성의 변화추이를 관찰하였다. 추출물의 활성평가는 항산화 효능 및 유효성분 함량을 평가하기 위하여 DPPH radical scavenging activity와 total polyphenol 함량을 평가하고 세포주를 활용해 MTT assay, Nitric oxide(NO) 생성억제 효능을 확인하여 세포독성 및 항염증 활성을 확인하였다. 실험결과, 생물전환 공정에 사용할 유용 미생물을 확보하기 위한 실험을 통해 다양한 젓갈류에서 다양한 미생물을 확보할 수 있었으며 약 16종의 유산균을 분리하였다. 분리된 미생물을 사용하여 산초 분말의 생물전환 공정을 실시한 결과, 5종의 유용미생물 처리에서 무처리 대비 DPPH radical 소거능 및 polyphenol 함량이 유의적으로 증가됨을 확인할 수 있었다. 그 중 가장 높은 활성을 나타내는 균주를 16S rDNA 염기서열 분석을 통해 확인한 결과 Weissella confusa D1로 확인되었다. 선별 균주를 활용한 생물전환 공정 후 항산화 활성은 대조군 대비 약 120%의 활성을 나타냈으며, polyphenol의 함량은 약 126%로 증가하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 더 나아가 생물전환 공정 후 산초추출물의 세포독성은 처리전과 비교하여 월등히 감소하는 경향을 확인할 수 있었으며, 항염효능 또한 증가하는 경향을 나타내는 것이 확인되었다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.189-200
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Quercus glauca extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity $(FSC_{50})$ of extract I fractions of Quercus glauca leaf was in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(12.45{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(10.47{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(8.57{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Quercus glauca leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;4.2{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(1.58{\mu}ug/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.66{\mu}g/mL)$. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Quercus glauca leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a dose dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect $({\tau}_{50}$, 398.67 min at $50{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Quercus glauca leaf extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm) as well. Two components were identified as quercetin (55.77%), and kaempferol (44.23 %). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Quercus glauca leaf extracts revealed 6 bands $(QG1{\sim}QG6)$, Among them, isoquercitrin (QG3), hyperin (QG4), and rutin (QG6) were identified. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase $(IC_{50},\;73.5{\mu}g/mL)$ and elastase $(IC_{50},\;16.2{\mu}g/mL)$ was high. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Quercus glauca can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Quercus glauca leaf extract and inhibitory activity on tyeisinase and elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.199-210
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• 2011

This study was conducted to develop functional sources of herbal cosmetics for treatment of skin aging and inflammatory disorders using volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions including Cnidium officinale Makino (COM), Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN), Mentha arvense L. (MAL), Artemisiae argyi Folium (AAF), Paeonia lactiflora Pall (PLP), Rehmanniae Radix Preparata (RRP), Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG), Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer (PGM), Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch (GUF). The volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions (HH-1: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, HH-2: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, SBG, PGM, GUF, HH-3: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, HH-4: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, SBG, PGM, GUF) were extracted using SDE and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects were measured by using DPPH radical and SLO, respectively. As a result, HH-2 showed moderate DPPH radical scavenging activity (68.24 %) and the strongest SLO inhibitory activity (83.96 %) at 100 ${\mu}g$/mL. Moreover, HH-2 of four different prescriptions significantly inhibited NO production on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner without considerable cell cytotoxicity at range of 2.0 ~ 50 ${\mu}g$/mL. Additionally, HH-2 also effectively suppressed the production of $PGE_2$ and IL-6, which are responsible for promoting the inflammatory process. Major volatile components of HH-2 were identified as eugenol, paeonol, butyl phthalide, ${\beta}$-eudesmol and butylidene dihydrophthalide by GC-MS analysis. Thus, these results suggest that HH-2 may be useful as a potential source of anti-inflammatory agents in herbal medicinal cosmetics.