• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.212-221
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• 2016

In this study, characteristics of swell-like high waves in the East Sea were analyzed using observed wave data and predicted meteorological data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). And, the wave prediction system using the data from the NOAA has been established. Furthermore, the applicability of the system has been verified by comparing the predicted results with the corresponding observed data. For some case, there were two times of wave height increase and the second increase occurred in a calm weather condition on the coast which might cause casualties. The direction of wave energy propagation was estimated from observed wave data in February, 2008. Through comparison between the direction of wave energy propagation and the meteorological data, it turns out that the second increase of waves is originated from the seas between Russia and Japan which is far from the East Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.223-233
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• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.217-217
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• 2011

울산광역시 울주군 온산읍에 위치한 회야강의 하구폐색은 1990년대 중반부터 주목을 받아서 연구 되어오고 있다. 하천의 하구에서는 일반적으로 파랑류, 취송류와 하천류 뿐 아니라 해류나 조류 등의 영향도 받는다. 회야강 하구는 이러한 흐름과 더불어 독특한 지형이 영향을 주어서 더욱 복잡한 흐름특성을 보인다. 이러한 복잡한 흐름의 영향으로 회야강 하구에서 사주가 강하게 발생하고 이로 인해서 하구폐색이 나타나고 있다. 이를 개선하기 위해 1997년부터 2004년 진하 방사제를 설치하였으나 이후에도 하구폐색이 계속 진행되었기 때문에 정기적인 준설로 하구폐색을 막고 있는 실정이다. 근본적으로 하구폐색을 막기 위해서 장기적인 관점에서 하상변동특성과 표사 및 유사의 이동 특성에 대한 과학적인 해석이 요구되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 대상해역에 가장 큰 영향인자로 예상되는 하천류와 해빈류에 대해서 검토하였다. 하천류 검토를 위해서는 회야강에서 유출하는 유사량을 혼합입경의 관점에서 실험하였고, 도류제 설치 유무에 따른 하구역에서의 지형변동 및 하구폐색현상을 해석하였다. 해빈류 검토에서는 파랑에 의한 회야강 하구인근에서의 흐름장과 침퇴적 해석을 통해 하구 인근해역의 지형변동특성을 고찰하였다. 회야강 하구에서 혼합입경($d_{10}$, $d_{50}$, $d_{90}$)을 고려하여 하천류의 수치실험을 수행한 결과 유출시간의 경과에 따라 하구역의 하상고가 점차 상승하여 하구사주가 발달하고 이로인하여 하구폐색이 진행됨을 알 수 있었다. 또 유송토사량에 대한 해석결과 홍수량 증가에 비례하여 유송토사량이 점차 증가하고 있는 것을 확인하였다. 평수시에는 하천의 유출량이 미소하여 하구폐색현상의 주외력은 파랑에 의한 해빈류인 것으로 판단되며 이같은 외력조건에 의해 하구에서 연안사주 발생이 강하게 나타나고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 그리고 파랑에 의한 해빈류가 회야강 하구에서 순환류의 형태로 나타나고 있으며, 이의 결과로 도류제 설치 후에도 하구부 인근해역에서 퇴적이 지속적으로 이루어지고 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.531-552
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• 2020

In the previous study, both the wave characteristics at the tip of composite breakwater and on caisson were investigated by applying olaFlow numerical model of three-dimensional regular waves. In this paper, the same numerical model and layout/shape of composite breakwater as applied the previous study under the action of one directional irregular waves were used to analyze two and three-dimensional spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, the frequency spectrum, mean significant wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis were studied. In conclusion, the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure in three-dimensional analysis condition. Which was not occurred by two-dimensional analysis. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the wave pressure distribution at the caisson changes along the length of breakwater when the same significant incident wave was applied to the caisson. Although there is difference in magnitude, but its variation shows the similar tendency with the case of previous study.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.194-200
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• 2015

본 연구에서는 하천부터 하구까지의 댐 구조물 건설로 인해 해안으로의 표사 공급원이 감소하는 것을 정량적으로 검토하였다. 내륙과 해양의 전이역인 연안은 농수산업, 임해산업단지, 발전소 및 항만과 같은 산업 인프라, 관광 및 레크리에이션 등의 다양한 편익을 제공하여 높은 경제 사회 환경적 가치가 있다. 그러나 80년대 이후 무분별하게 추진되어온 각종 연안 개발은 직 간접적인 해안의 침식문제를 발생시켰다. 우리나라 서해의 경우 하천으로부터의 토사 유입 차단은 심각한 수준이다. 아직 그 영향이 해안으로 완전히 파급되지 못하여 그로 인한 장기 해안 침식이 두드러지지 않고 있으나 고파랑에 의한 빈번한 침식과 저질의 세립화 현상을 통하여 현재 진행형임을 알 수 있다. 그러나 일단 피해가 심각해지기 시작하면 돌이킬 수 없는 재앙이 될 측면도 많다. 따라서 우리나라 유역의 개발과 수리구조물 건설 현황을 살펴 이로 인한 해안 침식 결과가 얼마나 심각할 수 있는 지를 살펴본다. 본 연구에서는 수리구조물로 인한 토사량 감소 중 가장 주요한 토사 공급원 감소 원인인 댐으로 인한 토사량 감소율에 대한 연구를 진행한다. 먼저 각 댐의 건설 전, 유역면적당 토사량과 댐 건설 후, 해안 유입 토사량 사이에 감소율을 계산하고, cascade 방법에 의하여 댐군에 의한 토사감소율을 산정한다. 유입 토사량 감소율을 산정하고 토사 공급원 감소로 인한 표사 수지 분석을 통해 해안 침식 폭의 위험도 평가를 실시한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.594-604
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• 2021

To evaluate the causes of beach erosion in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach, external forces, such as tides, tidal currents, and waves, were observed seasonally from March 2019 to March 2020, and the surface sediments were analyzed for this period. In addition, the shoreline positions and beach elevations were regularly surveyed with a VRS GPS and fixed-wing drone. From these field data, the speed of the tidal currents was noted to be insufficient, but the waves were observed to af ect the deformation of the beach. As the beach is open to the southern direction, waves of heights over 1 m were received in the S-SE direction during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Large waves with heights over 2 m were observed during typhoons in summer and fall. Because of the absence of typhoons for the previous two years from July 2018, the beach area over datum level (DL) as of July 2018 was greater by 30,138m² compared with that of March 2019, and the beach area as of March 2020 decreased by 61,210m² compared with that of March 2019 because of four typhoon attacks after July 2018. The beach volume as of March 2019 decreased by 5.4% compared with that of July 2018 owing to two typhoons, and the beach volume as of September 2019 decreased by 7.3% because of two typhoons during the observation year. However, the volume recovered slightly by about 3% during fall and winter, when there were no high waves. According to the sediment transport vectors by GSTA, the sediments were weakly influxed from small streams located at the center of the beach; the movement vectors were not noticeable at the west beach site, but the westward sediment transport under the water and seaward vectors from the foreshore beach were prominently observed at the east beach site. These patterns of westward sediment vectors could be explained by the angle between the annual mean incident wave direction and beach opening direction. This angle was inclined 24° counterclockwise with the west-east direction. Therefore, the westward wave-induced currents developed strongly during the large-wave seasons. Hence, the sand content is high in the west-side beach but the east-side beach has been eroded seriously, where the pebbles are exposed and sand dune has decreased because of the lack of sand sources except for the soiled dunes. Therefore, it is proposed that efforts for creating new sediment sources, such as beach nourishment and reducing wave heights via submerged breakwaters, be undertaken for the eastside of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.180-201
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• 2020

It has been widely known that the effect of diffracted waves at the tip of composite breakwater with finite length causes the change of standing wave height along the length of breakwater, the spatial change of wave pressure on caisson, and the occurrence of meandering damage on the different sliding distance in sequence. It is hard to deal with the spatial change of wave force on trunk of breakwater through the two-dimensional experiment and/or numerical analysis. In this study, two and three-dimensional numerical techniques with olaFlow model are used to approach the spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, it is thoroughly studied the mean wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis. In conclusion, it is confirmed that the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure checked by not two-dimensional analysis, but three-dimensional analysis through the change of wave pressure applied to the caisson along the length of breakwater.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.192-199
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• 2024

Wave overtopping is a significant natural hazard that occurs in coastal areas, primarily driven by high waves, particularly those generated during typhoons, which can cause coastal flooding. The development of residential and commercial areas along the coast, driven by increasing social and economic demands, has led to a concentration of people and assets in these vulnerable areas. This, coupled with long-term sea level rise and an increase in typhoon frequency, has heightened the risk of coastal hazards. Traditionally, the evaluation of wave overtopping volumes has relied on directly measuring the collected volume of water that exceeds the crest height of structures through hydraulic model experiments. These experiments are averaged over a specific measurement period. However, in this study, we propose a new method for estimating individual wave overtopping volumes. We utilize the temporal variation of wave overtopping heights to develop an observation system that can quantitatively assess wave overtopping volumes in actual coastal areas. To test our method, we conducted hydraulic model experiments on rubble mound breakwaters, which are commonly installed along the Korean coast. We introduce wave overtopping discharge coefficients, assuming that the inundation velocity from the structure's crest is the long-wave velocity. We then predict overtopping volumes based on wave overtopping heights and compare and review the results with experimental data. The findings of our study confirm the feasibility of estimating wave overtopping volumes by applying the overtopping discharge coefficients derived in this study to wave overtopping heights.