• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.72-81
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop geometric patterns which can be reinterpreted in a modern sense and textile designs which can be commercialized in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb. Of 42 tombs where genres and portraits could be observed, the costume style of Goguryeo dynasty could be mainly observed in the tombs built in the 4th and 5th centuries. Since geometric patterns found in the portrait could be represented in a modern sense, this study was intended to develop the patterns of a necktie which is one of cultural products by applying geometric patterns in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century with many patterns distributed. The scope of patterns was limited to a square, a triangle, a circle, and a diagonal line which were the basic of geometric patterns found in the mural painting. The methods of study were literature review and empirical study. Adobe Photoshop CS3 was used to edit geometric patterns found in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century. By extracting a square(${\square}$), a triangle(${\vartriangle}$), a circle(${\bigcirc}$), and a diagonal line(${\diagdown}$) from edited images, predicted images were proposed before products were made. Finally textile designs were made through the simulation of edited design patterns in the necktie and handkerchief. This study will contribute to the positive effects on the development of cultural product designs applying the characteristic of geometric patterns and the construction of Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.778-789
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• 2012

The characteristics of ancient gagye (the cubic hair style which added wigs or other materials to hair) that appeared in mural paintings were compared between Pyongyang and Jian in Goguryeo and the midlands, the northwest region, and the northeast region in China for the same period (Han to Weijin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties). Gagye in Korea and China was classified into circle type, hat type, high-bun type, and multi-bun type; in addition, Han elements, northern race elements, Goguryeo elements, and uniqueness were compared and analyzed according to regional distribution, trend periods, and style characteristics. The Han elements of ancient gagye in Korea and China appeared in the hat type, the high-bun type, and accessories that left the hair down. The northern race elements were found in the circle type and multi-bun type. The uniqueness of Goguryeo elements included a circle from the circle type, a triangle style from the hat type, an up-do style from the high burn type, and simplified hair accessories.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.21
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• pp.29-40
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• 2019

An experimental study was conducted to test the applicability of natural hydraulic lime (NHL) as a reinforcing agent for the supporting layers of mural paintings in ancient tombs.Drawing upon preceding studies on mural paintings inancient tombs, samples of reinforcing agents for various conditions were prepared using NHL products, and pseudo-samples of the supporting layers of mural paintings were also produced. The samples were cured for 7, 28, and 84 days in a high-humidity condition similar to that of the mural-tomb environment. Physical properties such as dimensional stability and compressive strength were measured for each curing period.The results indicated that the NHL samples had a rapid curing speed and a low contraction ratio and are therefore suitable as reinforcing agents, whereas they showed a poor match in terms of strength compared to the supporting layer,and also low whiteness. The dimensional stability and compressive strength testsrevealedthat an NHL product mixed with a pseudo-sample of a supporting layer provided desirable conditions for reinforcing agent. The findings suggested that different conditions for curing time and strength should be considered for each supporting layer prior to applying NHL as a reinforcing agent for damaged mural paintings in ancient tombs.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.457-466
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• 2014

Rigorous analysis was performed to identify the structure and materials of the murals to study techniques used on mural tombs of ancient Daegaya era(6th century). The murals were painted by applying mortar on the walls and the ceiling after building a stone chamber and creating ground layers on mortar layers. Mud was applied on most of the mortar layers on four sides of the walls except the ceiling. Sand was not used in mortar but was made of materials with pure calcium substances. In addition, shells in irregular sizes with incomplete calcination were mixed; and the mortar's white powder was inferred as lime obtained by calcination of oyster shells. Kaolinite($Al_2Si_2O_5(OH)_4$) was used in the ground layer, Cinnabar(HgS) was used for red pigment, Malachite($Cu_2CO_3(OH)_2$) for green and Lead white($PbCO_3{\cdot}Pb(OH)_2$) for white. Mud plaster was applied on the mortar and was composed thinly and densely using clayey of particle size smaller than that of medium sand. It was assumed that the finishing was for repair after long time had passed since the mortar layer came off. Using lime made with oyster shells as mortar is unprecedented in ancient Korean mural tombs and its durability was very poor, suggesting that Gaya's mortar production technique was relatively behind compared to that of Koguryo's in the same era.

• The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.47.3-47.3
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• 2017

한국과 중국에는 오랜 천문 역사와 함께 많은 유물과 유적이 남아 있다. 한국은 삼국시대부터 천문학 전반에 걸쳐 중국 천문학의 영향을 받아왔다. 그러나 한국의 고대 천문학에 대한 연구가 부족한 탓에 역사시대 이전의 두 나라의 천문학 특징과 상호 교류에 대해서는 잘 알려지지 않았다. 다만, 청동기 시대 고인돌 덮개돌에 새겨진 별자리와 고구려 고분 벽화의 별자리와 삼국사기에 기록된 독자 천문 기록의 검증 등으로부터 고대부터 이어진 우리의 고유한 천문 지식과 문화에 대해 짐작할 수 있을 뿐이다. 한편, 중국은 고고천문 연구를 통해 중국 여러 지역에서 발굴된 천문유물과 유적의 내용과 특징을 밝히고 있다. 지금까지 알려진 중국의 고고천문 자료들은 역사시대 이전 고대의 문화 지역인 하모도문화(河姆渡文化), 앙소문화(仰韶文化), 대문구문화(大汶口文化) 그리고 홍산문화(紅山文化)와 하가점하층문화(夏家店下層文化) 지역을 중심으로 발견되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 이들 문화지역에서 발견된 고고천문 자료를 지역별로 분류하여 그 특징을 살펴보고 한반도와 인접한 홍산문화와 하가점하층문화의 고고천문 유적을 중심으로 중국 다른 지역의 고고천문 유적과 비교하였다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.115-122
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• 2000

There are many battle paintings among wall paintings in Kokuryeo. Most warriors in paintings wore armours in full kit. Armours in Three-Kingdom Period were contrived for strategy. They have been checked that Pangab suitable for infantry action had been worn in Shilla while flexible Chalgab for cavalry battle had been worn in Kokuryeo. As cavalry strategy in Kokuryeo was brought to Kaya Kingdom via battles in fifth century, Chalgab became also worn in South area. Pangab, Shaejagab and Nubigabot as well as Chalgab had also been worn on view of wall paintings. There were many kinds of helmets such as Jongjang-panju, Mangokjongjang-panju, Kwanmonhyoungbok-balju, Chongkakju and Kwaehyoungju. Accesory-Armours are Sanggab, Kyounggab, Sangbakgab, Gwinggab, Daetwaegab and Kyounggab. Those helmets and Accesory-Armours are quite similiar to excavations from Shilla, Kaya Kingdom area. As Kokuryeo wall paintings are related to excavations from South area, armours and helmets in those wall paintings can be a good data to investigate the full shape of excavations and how to use, while excavations are very useful to the study on method of construction and manufacturing of armours and helmets.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.99-114
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• 2018

Saekdong is a unique Korean fabric that has been used since ancient times, and it is woven with the plain or satin weave so that vertical stripes appear by various colored warp threads of equal spacing. Saekdong means pleasure, joy, serenity, heavenly blessing, spirituality, wind, and abundance, expressing the optimistic and positive sentiment of Korea's forefathers. This study investigated how ancient Saekdong occurred with meanings. As a research method, this study used literature review and surfing newspapers and photographs, museum and internet search, even from other fields such as earthenware, bronze, and traditional dance. We collected Saekdong and the lifestyles of ethnic Koreans living in China, investigated the Asuka culture of Japan, and the tomb murals of Takamatsu-Chong, which are Baekje and Goguryeo settlement areas. The results are as follows: First, it expresses happy occasion, pleasure, and joy, and expresses a desire for good things to be repeated and lasting. Second, it symbolizes simple beauty, order, equality and harmony of many tribes. Third, Saekdong is life and power which represent a sacred, heavenly, mysterious bird. Fourth, it symbolizes abundance and wealth, rain, wind or fields. Finally, this study showed the brilliance and pride of Korean hanbok through Saekdong. The significance of this study is to examine the symbolism and inherent aesthetic characteristics of Saekdong and to show the unique value and spiritual heritage of the Korean people.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.