• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.30 no.8
• /
• pp.688-694
• /
• 2020

In a previous study, the total phenolic content in ethanol extracts of medicinal plants that naturally grow on Jeju Island were analyzed with the extracts of Raphiolepsis indica leaf found to have the highest. The current study was carried out to evaluate the total flavonoid content, radical-scavenging activity, and the protective effect of R. indica extracts and solvent fractions on oxidative stress in HaCaT keratinocytes. More specifically, total flavonoid content and 2-azino-bis 3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) radical-scavenging activity were measured to assess anti-oxidative activity, and protective effects against hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) were determined by 3-[4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl]-2, 5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay on the HaCaT cells. Of the various fractions analyzed, the ethyl acetate extract of R. indica showed the highest total flavonoid content (149.13 mg/g extracts) and the lowest remaining ABTS. In addition, the ethyl acetate fraction was significantly more resistant against H₂O₂ than the negative control. Our results therefore suggest that an ethyl acetate fraction of R. indica protects HaCaT cells against oxidative stress and could prove useful for developing functional cosmetic materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.32 no.1 s.55
• /
• pp.7-15
• /
• 2006

In this study, the effect of oligopeptide ($Oligosproutin^{(R)}$) from sprouted black rice was evaluated for possible improvement in skin elasticity. We examined the changes in gene expression on oligopeptide-treated HaCaT cells using DNA microarray analysis. As a result, oligopeptide treatment showed a differential expression ratio of more than 2-fold : 745 genes were activated and 1011 genes were repressed. One of the most interesting findings is a 2-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS 2) gene expression by oligopeptide. We also found that oligopeptide increased cell proliferation, HAS2 mRNA expression and intracellular ROS scavenging activity in HaCaT cells. A human clinical study which oil-in-water emulsion with oligopeptide was topically applied showed significant increase in skin elasticity. These results suggest that the sprouted black rice oligopeptide ($Oligosproutin^{(R)}$) can be effective anti-aging ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.32 no.1 s.55
• /
• pp.17-22
• /
• 2006

Phosphatidyiserine (PS) is a phospholipid which plays the structural role in membranes and serves as a cofactor of signaling enzymes for diverse cellular functions. In this study, we observed that topical treatment with PS significantly decreased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) induced by tape-stripping in hairless mice. Also, ceramides in epidermis were increased in PS-treated group compared to vehicle-treated one in vivo. the amounts of non-hydroxyl ceramide (NHCER) (1.4 fold) and glucosylceramide (glucosylCER) (1.6 fold), in the skin of hairless mice, were increased by topical treament with PS. Also, we demonstrated that PS stimulated keratinocyte differentiation. We observed that PS treatment morphologically altered normal human keratinocyte (NHK) from the proliferating phase to the differentiating one, suggesting that PS stimulated epidermal differentiation in NHK. We also showed that the expressions of the specific markers for epidermal differentiation, involucrin (INV) (3.5 fold up) and transglutaminase 1 (TG'ase 1) (3 fold up), were significantly increased by PS treatment, compared to untreated control in vitro. In addition, topical treatment with PS resulted in a progressive increase in INV and loricrin protein levels in vivo. In conclusion, we provide the first evidence for the physiological activities of PS in skin, and we suggest that PS strengthen the epidermal permeability harrier by stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.44 no.1
• /
• pp.95-101
• /
• 2018

The epidermis which is stratified by epithelial tissue renewal based on keratinocyte differentiation protects the organism from various environmental insults by forming a physical barrier. Autophagy is a mechanism which mediates lysosomal delivery and degradation of protein aggregates, damaged organelles and intracellular microorganisms. Recent reports have shown that autophagy has critical roles for proper terminal differentiation to stratum corneum via removing metabolic organelles and nuclei. However, whether increasing autophagy can activate epidermal differentiation is unknown. Here, we screened a library of natural single compounds and discovered that betaine specifically increased the LC3 positive cytosolic punctate vesicles and LC3-I to LC3-II conversion in HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, indicating increased autophagy flux. mTOR pathway, which negatively regulates autophagy, was not affected by betaine treatment, suggesting betaine-induced autophagy through an mTOR-independent pathway. Betaine-induced autophagy was also observed in primary human keratinocyte and skin equivalent. Furthermore, epidermal thickness was increased in skin equivalent under betaine treatment. Overall, our finding suggests that betaine as a novel regulator of autophagy may induce epidermal turnover and improve the skin barrier abnormality of the aged epidermis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.44 no.1
• /
• pp.31-37
• /
• 2018

Oil/water (O/W) nanoemulsions are effective vehicles to change the permeability of the skin. In this study, we focused on the preparation and characterization of nanoemulsion which serve as colloidal carriers for the dermal application of ceramide IIIB (CIIIB) and stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as cholesterol, and palmitic acid. In order to optimize the nanoemulsions, emulsification process conditions were conducted with regard to droplet size, nanoemulsion stability, and solubility of CIIIB. A decrease in droplet size was observed through emulsification temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ and phase inversion composition (PIC) method. CIIIB has low solubility in oil and water. When the concentration of CIIIB was increased, the droplet size of nanoemulsion was increased. When Lipoid S75-3 was added to the oil phase, the solubility of CIIIB increased, indicating some interactions shown in DSC measurements. CIIIB and SC lipids could be successfully incorporated in nanoemulsions without crystallization or physical instability. In conclusion, a stable nanoemulsion containing the SC lipids could be effective as an efficient moisturizing system for skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.30 no.2
• /
• pp.247-251
• /
• 2004

UV radiation exerts various influences in the skin, including photoaging and inflammation (1). The MMPs (Matrix metalloproteinases), which are induced by UV irradiation, can degrade matrix proteins, and these results in a collagen deficiency in photodamaged skin that leads to skin wrinkling. It has been known that the production of PGE$_2$ stimulates MMPs expression, and inhibits procollagen (2). Thus, it is possible that the induction of MMPs and the inhibition of matrix protein synthesis by UV -induced PGE$_2$ may play some role in UV-induced collagen deficiency in photoaged skin. Fructose-1,6-diphosphate (FDP), a glycolytic metabolite, is reported to have cytoprotective effects against ischemia and postischemic reperfusion injury of brain and heart, presumably by augmenting anaerobic carbohydrate metabolism (3). And also, FDP significantly prevent skin aging by decreasing facial winkle compared with vehicle alone after 6 months of use. We studied the mechanism of anti-aging effect of FDP on UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocyte model. FDP has protective role in UVB injured keratinocyte by attenuating prostaglandin E$_2$ (PGE$_2$) production and COX-2 expression. And FDP also suppressed UVB-induced MMP-2 expression. Further, to delineate the inhibition of UVB-induced COX-2 and MMPs expression with cell signaling pathways, treatment of FDP to HaCaT keratinocytes resulted in marked inhibition of UVB-induced phosphorylation of ERK1/2, JNK. It also prevents UV induced NFB translocation, which are activated by cellular inflammatory signal. Our results indicate that FDP has protecting effects in UV-injured skin aging by decreasing UVB-induced COX-2 and MMPs expression, which are possibly through blocking UVB-induced signal cascades.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.41 no.2
• /
• pp.113-119
• /
• 2015

The measurement of hydration level in the surface layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), gives important information on the biophysical properties and function of the skin barrier such as softness, flexibility, and healthiness of the skin. But it is difficult to measure a consistent hydration level from a sample to another sample due to individual variations and environmental changes. The aim of this study was to evaluate objective hydration after using various products in the SC. The SC Hydration was measured by capacitance (Corneometer$^{(R)}$, C+K, Germany) on the ventral site of forearm from 40 healthy volunteers. The skin surface was chronologically measured immediately after application of the test products and 3 and 6 hours later. We analyzed the averages of five measurements of each site and used the hydration increase rate for correction on untreated site variation. We found that most polyols including glycerol and butylenes glycol influenced directly the hydration increase rate in the SC previously. In this study, glycerol was used to prepare the standard products from 0 to 20 percents and applied to the same volunteers. The individual standard curve showed linear relation to glycerol concentrations. Based on the the standard curve, hydration of SC was converted into hydration increase rate to glycerol concentrations. The converted glycerol concentrations of products were repetitive and reproducible. In addition, the individual standard curve was used to relate the skin type of each individual. These results suggest that the hydration of the SC standardized regardless of external variation and individual skin condition can explain detailed skin state variation. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.34 no.1
• /
• pp.43-50
• /
• 2008

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer's needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol(AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This 'Maltese cross' appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension(3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization(less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.49 no.4
• /
• pp.323-330
• /
• 2023

The skin's barrier structure is formed through the differentiation process of epidermal keratinocytes. It consists of corneocytes that are composed of keratin proteins and lipids that fill the spaces between them. During this process, the lipids such as phospholipid that made up the membrane of the basal layer cells of the epidermis are decomposed and replaced with newly synthesized components like ceramide. In this study, the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 components on the packing of the intercellular lipid structure of the skin barrier and the barrier function was confirmed. To confirm this, Rg3 components were treated during the differentiation process of 3D epidermal cells. The FT-IR and TEWL analysis on 3D epidermis showed an enhancement in the orthorhombic lipid packing and an improvement in barrier function. Additionally, in HaCaT cells, an increase in the expression of EVOL1 and EVOL4, which synthesize long-chain lipids, was detected, along with a decrease in CERS6, which synthesizes short-chain ceramide, and an increase in ACER6, which decomposes ceramide using phytosphingosine. This suggests the possibility that Rg3 affects lipid synthesis during the epidermal differentiation process, resulting in changes in barrier function.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.40 no.4
• /
• pp.856-867
• /
• 2023

Due to the increase in fine dust caused by environmental pollution, oxidative damage and aging of the skin are accelerated. In this study, the antioxidant, hyaluronic acid, filaggrin, MMP-1, and ROS level of selected herbal extracts were evaluated to confirm the protective efficacy of keratinocytes treated PM10. As a result, the antioxidant capacity of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH), 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid(ABTS), and FRAP assay increased in a concentration-dependent manner. Keratinocytes the group treated with 300 ㎍/ml of PM10, hyaluronic acid and filaggrin decreased by more than 50%, and increased in the group treated with extracts of Alpinia officinarum, Ulmus macrocarpa, and Ulmus macrocarpa but decreased when the extract was treated, which is evaluated as inhibiting the degradation of collagen and elastin. In addition, in the case of ROS measurement using zebrafish embryos, it was confirmed that the extract was reduced when the extract was treated 25 ㎍/ml, the intensity of fluorescence similar to the negative control was shown, confirming that the production of ROS was significantly reduced. Through this study, the selected oriental medicinal materials, Alpinia officinarum, Ulmus macrocarpa, and Ulmus macrocarpa, protect the skin from fine dust. It is thought that it can be used as an anti-aging product for skin improvement as a material that can be improved or improved.