Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study on the Enhancement of Barrier Function and Improvement of Lipid Packing Structure in a 3D Skin Model by Ginsenoside Rg3

Ginsenoside Rg3 에 의한 3D 피부 모델의 장벽 기능 강화 및 지질 패킹 구조 개선에 관한 연구

  • Sunyoung Kim (Korea Ginseng Corporation Research Institute) ;
  • Seol-Hoon Lee (Division of Applied Chemistry and Cosmetic science, Dongduk Women's University)
  • 김선영 (한국인삼공사) ;
  • 이설훈 (동덕여자대학교 화학-화장품 학부)
  • Received : 2023.10.11
  • Accepted : 2023.12.05
  • Published : 2023.12.30
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Abstract

The skin's barrier structure is formed through the differentiation process of epidermal keratinocytes. It consists of corneocytes that are composed of keratin proteins and lipids that fill the spaces between them. During this process, the lipids such as phospholipid that made up the membrane of the basal layer cells of the epidermis are decomposed and replaced with newly synthesized components like ceramide. In this study, the effect of ginsenoside Rg3 components on the packing of the intercellular lipid structure of the skin barrier and the barrier function was confirmed. To confirm this, Rg3 components were treated during the differentiation process of 3D epidermal cells. The FT-IR and TEWL analysis on 3D epidermis showed an enhancement in the orthorhombic lipid packing and an improvement in barrier function. Additionally, in HaCaT cells, an increase in the expression of EVOL1 and EVOL4, which synthesize long-chain lipids, was detected, along with a decrease in CERS6, which synthesizes short-chain ceramide, and an increase in ACER6, which decomposes ceramide using phytosphingosine. This suggests the possibility that Rg3 affects lipid synthesis during the epidermal differentiation process, resulting in changes in barrier function.

피부의 장벽 구조는 표피의 각질 형성세포의 분화과정에 의해서 생성된다. 이 구조는 케라틴 단백질로 구성되는 각질세포와 그 사이를 채우고 있는 세포간 지질로 구성된다. 이때 표피의 기저층의 세포의 막을 이루던 인지질 등의 성분은 분해되어 없어지고, 세라마이드 등이 성분이 신규로 합성되어 각질층의 세포간 지질을 구성한다. 본 연구에서는 피부 장벽의 세포간 지질 구조의 패킹과 장벽기능에 진세노사이드 Rg3성분이 미치는 영향을 확인하였다. 이를 위해 3D피부 세포의 분화과정에 Rg3성분을 처리하였다. 3D피부를 대상으로 FT-IR 및 TEWL를 분석한 결과, 각질 세포간 지질의 orthorhombic패킹이 강화되고 장벽기능이 강화되는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 HaCaT세포에 Rg3를 처리한 경우, 긴 체인 길이의 지질을 합성하는 EVOL1 및 EVOL4의 발현 증가와 짧은 길이의 세라마이드의 합성을 당하는 CERS6의 감소 그리고 피토스핑고신을 사용하는 세라마이드를 분해시키는 ACER6의 증가를 검출하였다. 이를 통해 Rg3가 표피 분화 과정 중 지질의 합성에 영향을 주어 장벽 기능 변화를 가져올 가능성을 제시하였다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This thesis was supported by the Dongduk Women's University Grant.

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