DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Composition Ratio Analysis of Transesterification Products of Olive Oil by Using Thin Layer Chromatography and Their Applicability to Cosmetics

올리브 오일의 에스터 교환반응 생성물의 TLC를 이용한 조성비 분석 및 화장품에의 응용가능성 평가

  • Park, So Hyun (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Shin, Hyuk Soo (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Kim, A Rang (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Jeong, Hyo Jin (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Xuan, Song Hua (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Hong, In Kee (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Lee, Dae Bong (eBio Korea) ;
  • Park, Soo Nam (Department of Fine Chemistry, Cosmetic R&D Center, Seoul National University of Science and Technology)
  • 박소현 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 신혁수 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 김아랑 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 정효진 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 현송화 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 홍인기 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터) ;
  • 이대봉 ((주)이바이오코리아) ;
  • 박수남 (서울과학기술대학교 정밀화학과 화장품종합기술연구소, 코스메틱 융.복합산업 지원센터)
  • Received : 2018.02.19
  • Accepted : 2018.04.30
  • Published : 2018.06.10

Abstract

In this study, the physicochemical properties, emulsifying capacity, moisture content and cytotoxicity of the composite material produced by transesterification reactions of the olive oil (olive oil esters) were investigated for cosmetic applications. Olive oil esters with short (S) and long (L) reaction times were studied. From the TLC-image analysis, composition ratios of the olive oil esters S were found to be 5.2, 24.1, 46.4, and 21.9% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. Those of the olive oil esters L were 4.1, 24.7, 40.6, and 28.8% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. The iodine value, acid value, saponification value, unsaponified matter, refractive index, and specific gravity were determined and purity tests were also carried out and normalized to establish standards and testing methods for using olive oil esters in cosmetics. To evaluate their emulsifying capacities, the O/W emulsion was prepared without surfactants and the formation of the emulsified particles were confirmed. After 5 days of applying the olive oil esters to human skin, the skin moisture retention was improved by 13.1% from the initial state. For the evaluation of toxicity on human skin cells, the olive oil esters showed 90% or more of the cell viability at $0.2-200{\mu}g/mL$. These results suggested that olive oil esters can be applied as natural/non-toxic ingredients to cosmetics industries.

본 연구에서는 올리브 오일의 에스터 교환반응으로 생성된 복합소재(olive oil esters)의 화장품 응용을 위해 물리화학적 성질, 유화력, 보습력 및 세포독성을 평가하였다. 실험에는 반응시간이 짧은 olive oil esters S와 반응시간이 긴 olive oil esters L을 사용하였다. 먼저 TLC 이미지 분석으로 조성비를 확인한 결과, olive oil esters S의 조성은 mono-, di-, tri-glyceride가 5.2, 24.1, 46.4%이었고, fatty acid ethyl ester는 21.9%이었다. Olive oil esters L은 mono-, di-, tri-glyceride가 4.1, 24.7, 40.6%이었고, fatty acid ethyl ester는 28.8%이었다. 올리브 오일 에스터를 화장품에 사용하기 위한 기준 및 시험방법 설정을 위해 요오드가, 산가, 검화가, 불검화물, 굴절률, 비중 및 순도시험을 수행하였고 표준화시켰다. 또한 올리브 오일 에스터의 유화력 평가로서, 계면활성제 없이 O/W 에멀전을 제조하여 유화 입자를 확인하였다. 올리브 오일 에스터를 사람 피부에 도포 5일 후, 피부 수분 보유량은 초기보다 13.1% 개선되었다. 피부 세포에 대한 독성을 평가한 결과, 올리브 오일 에스터는 $0.2-200{\mu}g/mL$에서 세포 생존율 90% 이상을 나타내 안전성이 확인되었다. 결과적으로 올리브 오일 에스터는 화장품 산업에서 천연/무독성 원료로서 응용가능성이 있음을 시사하였다.

References

  1. U. Schuchardt, R. Sercheli, and R. M. Vargas, Transesterification of vegetable oils: A review, J. Braz. Chem. Soc., 9, 199-210 (1998).
  2. S. Shahla, N. G. Cheng, and R. Yusoff, An overview on trans- esterification of natural oils and fats, Biotechnol. Bioprocess Eng., 15, 891-904 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12257-009-3157-2
  3. M. Cortese, M. Ricciutelli, R. Censi, and P. D. Martino, Qualitative characterization of a transesterification product of coconut oil by FIA-APCI-MS, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 37, 379-385 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12206
  4. S. Hawash, N. Kamal, F. Zaher, O. Kenawi, and G. E. Diwani, Biodiesel fuel from Jatropha oil via non-catalytic supercritical methanol transesterification, Fuel, 88, 579-582 (2009). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fuel.2008.09.007
  5. D. Y. C. Leung, X. Wu, and M. K. H. Leung, A review on biodiesel production using catalyzed transesterification, Appl. Energy, 87, 1083-1095 (2010). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apenergy.2009.10.006
  6. E. Dickinson and S. Tanai, Protein displacement from the emulsion droplet surface by oil-soluble and water-soluble surfactants, J. Agric. Food Chem., 40, 179-183 (1992). https://doi.org/10.1021/jf00014a003
  7. F. F. P. Santos, S. Rodrigues, and F. A. N. Fernandes, Optimization of the production of biodiesel from soybean oil by ultrasound assisted methanolysis, Fuel Process. Technol., 1, 1-7 (2011).
  8. H. J. Sim, J. H. Kim, S. K. Lee, E. H. Kim, Y. H. Jin, E. K. Seo, and J. K. Hong, Non-aqueous reversed phase HPLC-evaporative light scattering detection of triacylglycerols: Quality evaluation of Coix seed, Bull. Korean Chem. Soc., 36, 1707-1709 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1002/bkcs.10296
  9. C. Plank and E. Lorbeer, Simultaneous determination of glycerol, and mono-, di- and triglycerides in vegetable oil methyl esters by capillary gas chromatography, J. Chromatogr. A, 697, 461-468 (1995). https://doi.org/10.1016/0021-9673(94)00867-9
  10. K. Bansal, J. McCrady, A. Hansen, and K. Bhalerao, Thin layer chromatography and image analysis to detect glycerol in biodiesel, Fuel, 87, 3369-3372 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fuel.2008.04.033
  11. S. A. Kustrin and C. G. Hettiarachchi, Quantitative high performance thin layer chromatography for the analysis of herbal medicines: Problems and advantages, Mod. Chem. Appl., 2, 118 (2014).
  12. D. Casoni and C. Srbu, High sensitive and selective HPTLC method assisted by digital image processing for simultaneous determination of catecholamines and related drugs, Talanta, 114, 117-123 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.talanta.2013.03.058
  13. R. Aparicio and R. Aparicio-Ruiz, Authentication of vegetable oils by chromatographic techniques, J. Chromatogr. A, 881, 93-104 (2000). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0021-9673(00)00355-1