Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Study on the Direct Printing of Natural Indigo Dye on Cotton Fabric Using Arabic Gum

아라비아 검을 이용한 천연 쪽 염료의 면직물에 대한 직접 날염 연구

  • Li, Longchun (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Graduate School, Incheon National University/College of Textile and Garment, Hebei University of Science and Technology) ;
  • Ahn, Cheunsoon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Graduate School, Incheon National University)
  • ;
  • 안춘순 (인천대학교 대학원 의류학과)
  • Received : 2016.08.25
  • Accepted : 2017.03.09
  • Published : 2017.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This research investigated the screen printing method for natural indigo dye on cotton fabric. We examined four types of thickening agents (arabic gum, guar gum, indalca, and CMC) based on their ability to retard the oxidation of natural indigo print paste while the paste remained on the screen frame. The results indicated that the retardation of arabic gum towards oxidation was the greatest among the four types of thickening agents. The highest K/S value of the printed cotton was observed with a dye concentration of 50g/L fermented indigo powder. The best printing results were obtained when the duration of dye efficiency was tested for the 10 minutes of the dye paste remaining on the screen with a thickening agent concentration of 26.56% that represented 530 cps viscosity. The test of colorfastness to washing and rubbing of the printed cotton resulted in grade 5, and the colorfastness to sunlight resulted in grade 4. Chinese traditional Naminwhapo printing was reproduced on cotton fabric using the natural indigo printing method derived from this study.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, C., Zeng, X., & Obendorf, S. K. (2015). High-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-mass selective detector analysis of major natural dyes with the application of $H_2O_2$/ultraviolet treatment as a way to simulate burial degradation of textiles. Textile Research Journal, 85(3), 238-250. doi:10.1177/0040517514545258
  2. An, B. J., & Lee, J. T. (2000). An application and the natural stabilizer in the food industry. Food Industry and Nutrition, 5(3), 57-61.
  3. Binsi, P. K., Nayak, N., Sarkar, P. C., Sahu, U., Ninan, G., & Ravishankar, C. N. (2016). Comparative evaluation of gum arabic coating and vacuum packaging on chilled storage characteristics of indian mackerel (Rastrelliger kanagurta). Journal of Food Science and Technology, 53(4), 1889-1898. doi:10.1007/s13197-015-2122-7
  4. Chung, I. M., & Woo, S. O. (2002). Effect of reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo dyeing of silk fabric. Korean Journal of Sericultural Science, 44(2), 93-98.
  5. Crews, P. C. (1987). The fading rates of some natural dyes. Studies in Conservation, 32(2), 65-72. doi:10.2307/1506293
  6. Davis, V. (1995). William Morris and indigo discharge printing. The Journal of the William Morris Society, 11(3), 8-17.
  7. Guan, Y., & Zhong, Q. (2015). The improved thermal stability of anthocyanins at pH 5.0 by gum arabic. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 64(2), 706-712. doi:10.1016/j.lwt.2015.06.018
  8. Han, S. Y., & Choi, S. C. (2000). A study on the physiological effects and dyeing properties of the extract of fermented indigo (Part II). Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 24(8), 1146-1154.
  9. Kang, I. S., Song, W. S., Ryu, H. S., Lee, J. S., & Chung, H. (2001). Understanding of dyeing. Seoul: Gyomoon Publishers.
  10. Kim, E. K., & Chang, J. H. (2000). Dyeing properties of sappan wood dyes by screen printing. Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, 38(9), 119-130.
  11. Kim, M., & Jeon, D. (2011). A study on the effect of the changes of dyeing conditions on the dyeability of cotton fabrics dyed with natural Polygoum tinctoria. Journal of Fashion Business, 15(4), 144-154.
  12. Kuck, L. S., & Norena, C. P. Z. (2016). Microencapsulation of grape (Vitis labrusca var. Bordo) skin phenolic extract using gum Arabic, polydextrose, and partially hydrolyzed guar gum as encapsulating agents. Food Chemistry, 194, 569-576. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2015.08.066
  13. Lee, M. J., & Sohn, H. S. (2011). Research on dyeing crafts of chinese indigo dyed designs. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(2), 376-388.
  14. Lee, M. S., & Chung, K. H. (2012). The development of bedclothes design through the application of natural indigo dyeing. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 18(3), 356-367.
  15. Li, L. (2016). Study on the thickening agent which can retard oxidation of natural indigo dye in the direct printing of cotton fabric. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Incheon National University, Incheon.
  16. Liles, J. N. (1990). The art and craft of natural dyeing: Traditional recipes for modern use. Knoxville, TN: University Tennessee Press.
  17. Maqbool, M., Ali, A., Alderson, P. G., Zahid, N., & Siddiqui, Y. (2011). Effect of a novel edible composite coating based on gum arabic and chitosan on biochemical and physiological responses of banana fruits during cold storage. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(10), 5474-5482. doi:10.1021/jf200623m
  18. Nam, S. W., & Kim, K. T. (2010). Preparation and screen printing of natural dye powders. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 22(4), 314-324. https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2010.22.4.314
  19. Oh, J. (2010). The effect of characteristics of natural indigo dyestuff on its dyeing properties. Unpublished master's thesis, Incheon National University, Incheon.
  20. Oh, J., & Ahn, C. (2011). A study on the current status and dyeing characteristics of natural indigo powder dye. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 35(7), 736-747. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.7.736
  21. Park, J. L. (2013). Fabric dyeing property for natural indigo on reducing condition. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  22. PCGroup. (2016, April 28). 蓝印花布上的江南 [Chinese indigo resist print fabric]. Photo.Pconline.com.cn. Retrieved April 28, 2016, from http://dp.pconline.com.cn/dphoto/list_3277738.html
  23. Poulin, J. (2007). Identification of indigo and its degradation products on a silk textile fragment using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Journal of the Canadian Association for Conservation, 32, 48-56.
  24. Rivlin, J. (1992). The dyeing of textile fibers: Theory and practice. North Miami Beach, FL: Joseph Rivlin Associates.
  25. Shin, J. K. (2000). Textile printing technologies. Seoul: Hyungseul publishing.
  26. Shin, Y. S. (1994). 염색기초: 공예염색과 천연염료 [Basic dye: Craft dyeing and natural dyes]. Seoul: Gyomoon Publishers.
  27. Song, Y. S., & Song, W. S. (2013). Effect of thickener and mordants on the printing properties of cotton and silk fabrics printed with Phellodendron Amurense extract. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 15(5), 825-833. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.5.825
  28. Yoo, H. J. (2007). Dyeing protein fiber to green color using natural mugwort and indigo. Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, 45(4), 53-59.
  29. Yoon, J. C. (2010). Effects of xanthan gum, guar gum, and surfactants on the oxidative stability in photosensitized emulsion system. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University of Science and Technology, Seoul.