Journal of Korea Water Resources Association (한국수자원학회논문집)

Korea Water Resources Association (한국수자원학회)
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Experimental and Numerical Analyses for Irregular Wave Breaking over a Shelf Region

Shelf 지형에서 불규칙파의 쇄파실험 및 수치해석

  • Lee, Jong-In (Dept. of Marine and Civil Engrg., Chonnam National University) ;
  • Kim, Young-Taek (River and Coastal Research Division, Korea Institute of Construction Technology)
  • 이종인 (전남대학교 공학대학 해양토목공학과) ;
  • 김영택 (한국건설기술연구원 하천해안연구실)
  • Received : 2013.01.07
  • Accepted : 2013.02.08
  • Published : 2013.05.31
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Abstract

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

본 연구에서는 shelf 지형을 대상으로 불규칙파를 적용한 2차원 쇄파변형 수리실험과 Boussinesq형 방정식을 이용한 수치해석을 수행하였다. 유의파고, 유의파봉고, 유의파곡고, 평균수위 및 안정파고와 같은 쇄파특성을 수리실험자료로부터 분석하였고, 실험결과와 Boussinesq형 방정식의 해석결과를 비교하였으며, 두 결과는 비교적 잘 일치하였다. 일정수심상에서의 불규칙파의 쇄파후 안정파고는 수심의 약 0.56배로 분석되었다.

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References

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