남성 맞춤 정장 재킷의 여유량을 결정짓는 요인들에 관한 연구

Characteristics of Ease in Men's Custom-fit Business Jackets

  • 강여선 (이화여자대학교 생활과학대학 의류직물학과) ;
  • 최혜선 (이화여자대학교 생활과학대학 의류직물학과)
  • Kang Yeosun (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Choi Hei-Sun (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 발행 : 2004.12.01

초록

본 연구는 개개인에게 최적 맞음새를 제공하는 남자 맞춤 재킷 소비자들을 대상으로 신체 부위별 치수 및 재킷 치수를 측정하여 여유량을 산출하였고, 또한 여유량 특성을 파악하기 위해 각 여유량을 신체 특성, 연령, 신체 인식정도 및 선호하는 재킷 실루엣별로 비교 분석하였으며 동시에 소비자들이 재킷 전체 맞음새를 고려할 때 중요하게 여기는 부위를 연령 및 체격별로 분석하였다. 신체 치수에 따라 가장 민감하게 여유량이 변화한 부위는 가슴둘레였으며 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레의 여유량은 신체 치수보다는 재킷 실루엣을 위해 조정되는 부위였다. 신체 치수 다음으로 맞음새와 여유량에 가장 큰 영향을 미치는 요인은 연령이었다. 또한 재킷의 전체 맞음새를 위해 소비자들이 가장 중요하게 여기는 부위는 어깨의 맞음새였으며 특히, 피트되는(fit)스타일을 선호하는 소비자들은 전체적으로 각 부위별, 특히 허리 맞음새에 특별한 관심을 보였다. 자신의 신체에 대한 인식 중 엉덩이에 대한 인식에 따라 가슴둘레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레에서의 선호 맞음새가 달랐다. 또한 뚱뚱하다고 생각하는 소비자들이 오히려 여유가 적은 허리둘레 맞음새를 선호하였으며 이는 허리둘레 여유량을 조정함으로써 전통적인 재킷 실루엣을 유지하기 위한 것으로 해석 할 수 있다. 이상과 같이 각 체격별로, 연령별로 그리고 선호 스타일별로 중요하게 여기는 맞음새 부위와 실제 재킷 부위별 여유량이 달랐으므로 기성 재킷 생산 업체에서는 타겟 체형 및 타겟 연령에 따라 재킷 부위별 여유량과 맞음새 중요 순위 및 그 정도를 달리하여야 소비자 만족도를 높일 수 있을 것이다.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

키워드

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