• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.3_4
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• pp.452-459
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of reference fabric for the tactile sensation of worsted fabrics. As specimens, 32 worsted fabrics for spring/fall suits were selected. A series of subjective evaluation for roughness, harshness, coarseness, smoothness, warmth, bulkiness and softness were performed with 20 trained panels. The panels were selected by the test of consistency and trained for 3 weeks to enhance the reproducibility and consistency. Subjective evaluation was performed using 9 points Semantic Differential Scales with and without reference fabric. Results showed that the sensations were very similar between the results for the test of with or without reference. However the standard deviations of ratings for the with-reference were much less than that of without-reference which means the use of reference fabric can reduce the subjective error or can reduce the number of panels to test.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.24-29
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify apparel fabrics according to rustling sounds and to analyze their transformed colors and mechanical properties. The rustling sounds of apparel fabrics were recorded and then transformed into colors using Mori's color-transforming program. The specimens were clustered into five groups according to sound properties, and each group was named as 'Silky', 'Crispy', 'Paper-like', 'Worsted', and 'Flaxy', respectively. The Silky consisted of smooth and soft silk fabrics had the lowest value of LPT, $\Delta$f ARC, loudness(z) and sharpness(z). Their transformed colors showed lots of red portion and color counts. The Crispy with crepe fabrics showed relatively low loudness(z) and sharpness(z), but diverse colors and color counts were appeared. The Paper-like showed the highest value of LPT, $\Delta$f and loudness(z). The Worsted composed of wool and wool-like fabrics showed high values of LPT, $\Delta$f loudness(z) and sharpness(z). The transformed colors of the Paper-like and Worsted showed the blue mostly but color counts were less than the others. The Flaxy with rugged flax fabric had the highest fluctuation strength, and their transformed colors showed diversity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2002

This study surveys the physical properties of Solo-spun fabrics related to the characteristics of Solo-spun yarns, which were described in previous reports. For this purposes, 6 kinds of fabrics were woven on the pilot loom. 3 kinds of Solo-spun yarns with the 3 level of twist mutiplier of Nm 1/30 and 3 kinds of conventional ring-spun yarns with the same levels of twist multipliers of the same yarn counts. The fabrics were of 2/2 twill and clear-cut finished. The physical properties were surveyed by means of KES-FB system. Solo-spun fabrics seemed to be stiffer than ring spun fabrics as showing the lower extensibility with higher tensile energy, the higher bending rigidity, and the higher shear rigidity. Solo-spun fabrics showed the lower value in surface friction coefficient and surface roughness. For fabric abrasion tests, Solo-spun fabrics showed the higher pill resistance.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.35-46
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• 1989

Experiments described in which cotton fabrics at different stages of chemical processing were abraded to different extents on a Stoll Abrasion Tester with three different abradants, namely, a worsted fabric, flax fabric and silicon carbide paper. The four different plain-weave cotton fabrics selected were 1) desized, 2) scoured and bleached, 3) mercerized, 4) resin-treated. The surface abrasive damages of treated fabrics were observed by SAM, and load-elongation percent retentions of abraded samples were measured by Instrong Tester. The result were as follows: 1. The maximum percent retention of load-elongation with three different abradants was exhibited by the scoured and bleached fabrics and the minimum by the resin finished fabric. 2. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by flax, worsted fabric abradants for 900 rubs showed a large number of criss-crossing stray fibers in fabric structure. It may be the molecular adhesion for frictional resistance to be explained. 3. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by silicone carbide abradants showed the form of busing or mashing fibers in fabric structure. The above might be on the basis of the ploughing theory.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.23-28
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify apparel fabrics according to rustling rounds and to analyze their transformed colors and mechanical properties. The rustling sounds of apparel fabrics were recorded and then transformed into colors using Mori's color-transforming program. The specimens were clustered into five groups according to sound properties, and each group was named as ‘Silky’,‘Crispy’,‘Paper-like’,‘Worsted’, and ‘Flaxy’, respectively. The Silky consisted of smooth and soft silk fabrics had the lowest value of LPT, $\Delta$f, ARC , loudness(B) and sharpness(z). Their transformed colors showed lots of red portion and color counts. The Crispy with crepe fabrics showed relatively low loudness(z) and sharpness(B), but diverse colors and color counts were appeared. The Paper-like showed the highest value of LPT, $\Delta$f and loudness(z). The Worsted composed of wool and wool-Like fabrics showed high values of LPT, $\Delta$f, loudness(z) and sharpness(B). The transformed rotors of the Paper-like and Worsted showed the blue mostly but color counts were less than the others. The Flaxy with rugged flax fabric had the highest fluctuation strength, and their transformed colors showed diversity.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.623-629
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• 2007

Recently, the $"Optim"^{(R)}$ which is the wool fibre with high lustre developed by CSIRO in Australia is imported and commercialized as a high sensible fabrics for garment. But the price of this $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre is very high so material demand and supply is not smooth. This study is aiming to develop the drawing technology of the worsted yarn with washable function, lustre and low production cost. For this purpose, drawing yarns are made using developed drawing machine and high sensible fabrics are woven using this yarns, and various physical properties of the fabric specimen are measured and analysed with garment characteristics such as sewability and formability. The final objective of this study is seemed to be achieved by making the high sensible fabrics using drawing worsted yarns with high lustre such as $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1990.06a
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• pp.44-45
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• 1990