• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.14-18
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• 2003

국내 소모방 업체는 원료를 외국에서 수입하고 있기 때문에 wool 원료를 이용한 고감성 고기능성 제품 개발이 요구되고 있다. 또한 기존 제품은 국제 가격 경쟁력을 상실한 상태이므로 물성개전과 기능성을 향상시킨 획기적인 소재 개발이 요구되고 있는 실정이다. 최근 호주의 CSIRO 연구소에서 개발된 $\ulcorner$Optim$\lrcorner$$^{(R)}$ 은 광택이 뛰어난 모섬유 소재로서 국내에서 수입되어 고감성 의류용 직물로서 상품화가 되고 있다. 그러나 원료가격이 고가인 관계로 원료수금이 원활치 못한 실적이다. 본 연구에서는 생산원가가 저렴하며 50%까지 연신함으로써 광택은 물론 물세탁이 가능한 기능성을 부여할 수 있는 방적 소모사 상태에서 연신하는 기술을 개발하기 위한 최적 공정 조건을 결정하기 위한 실험을 실시하였고 이들 소모사를 이용한 직물의 의류물성을 분석하여 소모사 상태에서 연신기술을 응용한 광택이 우수한 고감성 직물을 개발하기 위해 연구를 수행하였다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.623-629
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• 2007

Recently, the $"Optim"^{(R)}$ which is the wool fibre with high lustre developed by CSIRO in Australia is imported and commercialized as a high sensible fabrics for garment. But the price of this $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre is very high so material demand and supply is not smooth. This study is aiming to develop the drawing technology of the worsted yarn with washable function, lustre and low production cost. For this purpose, drawing yarns are made using developed drawing machine and high sensible fabrics are woven using this yarns, and various physical properties of the fabric specimen are measured and analysed with garment characteristics such as sewability and formability. The final objective of this study is seemed to be achieved by making the high sensible fabrics using drawing worsted yarns with high lustre such as $"Optim"^{(R)}$ fibre.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

We performed the subjective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics used for S/S among fabrics as basis, five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yarns made by different twisting methods then, we did questionnaire survey targeting sixty females in the expert groups. Utilizing SPSS 12.0, correlation, ANOVA, Duncan, and Multidimensional Standard way were analyzed. The results are as following. First, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sense factor, in the 'drape sense', the acrylic/rayon blended knit was preferred as the most flexible, pliable, and elastic knit; in weight/bulk factor, the acrylic filament knit the most twisted was preferred as the least bulk, thin, cool and transparent knit; in 'surface depression sense' factor, A(F)W acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most haggard, straight, dry knit. Second, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sensibility factor, in the 'neatness' the acrylic filament hit was preferred as the most clean, neat and delightful knit; in the 'comfortableness', the acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most natural, stable, and comfortable knit. Third, according to the result of evaluating on preferred knits as the spring and summer, generally the acrylic filament twisted yarn knits were more preferred than the acrylic blended yarns. However the preference on the kinds of the acrylic twisted filament yarn showed that there is a little difference on the acrylic blended yarn knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1611-1620
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• 2010

This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.24-29
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify apparel fabrics according to rustling sounds and to analyze their transformed colors and mechanical properties. The rustling sounds of apparel fabrics were recorded and then transformed into colors using Mori's color-transforming program. The specimens were clustered into five groups according to sound properties, and each group was named as 'Silky', 'Crispy', 'Paper-like', 'Worsted', and 'Flaxy', respectively. The Silky consisted of smooth and soft silk fabrics had the lowest value of LPT, $\Delta$f ARC, loudness(z) and sharpness(z). Their transformed colors showed lots of red portion and color counts. The Crispy with crepe fabrics showed relatively low loudness(z) and sharpness(z), but diverse colors and color counts were appeared. The Paper-like showed the highest value of LPT, $\Delta$f and loudness(z). The Worsted composed of wool and wool-like fabrics showed high values of LPT, $\Delta$f loudness(z) and sharpness(z). The transformed colors of the Paper-like and Worsted showed the blue mostly but color counts were less than the others. The Flaxy with rugged flax fabric had the highest fluctuation strength, and their transformed colors showed diversity.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.11a
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• pp.1341-1345
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• 2003

직물의 소리에 의해 유발되는 감성을 토대로 직물의 소리를 색채와 매치시키는 실험을 실시하여 직물의 소리를 색으로 변환해 봄으로써 시각과 생각에 의한 복합감성을 활용한 직물 디자인을 제안해 보고자 하였다. 의류소재 30개의 소리를 녹음하여 군집분석한 후 각 군집별로 섬유의 종류를 고려하여 총 6개의 소리를 선택하여 주관적 감성평가와 색 변환실험에 사용하였다. 직물의 소리는 섬유의 조성에 관계없이 주로 Blue, Purple Blue 그리고 무채색으로 표현되었다. 그런, wool은 Gr(grayish), silk는 Dk(dark), polyester는 Dl(dull), nylon은 Dk(dark)등의 차분하고, 안정되고, 점잖은 느낌의 색조로, cotton과 flax는 P(pale)와 Vp(very pale) 같은 부드럽고 가벼운 느낌의 색조로 표현되었다. 따라서 직물의 소리 감성을 설명하는 요소는 색상보다는 색조에 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2000.11a
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• pp.145-147
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• 2000

본 연구는 각기 다른 종류의 원단으로 운동복을 만들어 선수들에게 입혀서 운동을 20분간 실시하게 하여 원단에 따라 쾌적감을 평가하였다. 실험방법은 피부온도를 4부위 측정하였고 가슴부위에서 의복 내 온도를 측정하였으며 매 5분마다 주관적인 쾌적감을 신고하도록 하였다. 연구의 목적은 다른 종류의 원단으로 제작한 운동복에 따른 쾌적감과 피부온도의 변화와 의복내 온도의 변화를 알아봄으로서 원단별로 쾌적감을 느끼는 피부온도와 의복 내 온도를 찾아내고 운동복의 디자인이나 설계에 적용하여 쾌적한 운동복을 개발하고자 한다. 그 결과 동일한 원단에서 운동시의 쾌적감은 부위별 피부온도가 높을 때 보다 낮을 때에 쾌적감을 느끼고 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 즉 운동 시에 발생하는 열을 의복이 열 평형을 이루기 위해 빨리 열을 밖으로 배출할 수 있는 의복의 디자인이 필요하다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 각기 다른 원단에서는 시간별 감각평가를 비교한 결과 PE/Wool의 원단이 쾌적하다는 평가를 하였다. 처음 의복을 입었을 때와 운동 중 그리고 운동 후에 피부온도나 의복 내 온도 변화가 적을 때에 쾌적하다는 평가를 하였다.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.665-671
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• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.