• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권10호
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• pp.1632-1646
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• 2010

This article is an analysis of the fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types for 30's and 40's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point likert scale was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. The data were analyzed with t-test and ANOVA using statistical program SPSS 17.0. The results are as follow. 1. The real and virtual fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types indicates that respondents preferred pattern 2 for body type N than the rest of the patterns; however, respondents preferred pattern 3 for body type A and H. 2. There were no significant differences between real and virtual fit preference. 3. It is necessary that the knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance like a woven jacket. The results show that the next generation of virtual try-on systems need the development of a minus clothing ease scale.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.454-467
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• 2015

Reflecting the consumer's desire to look young, the "down-aging" trend, which blurs the distinctions between age groups, is the latest craze in the fashion market. The popularity of this trend made brand identities similar, resulting in customers becoming more interested in segmented notions of fashion (in terms of the story, design, high-quality material, etc.) regarding the product, and in particular, focus has become oriented to the fitness to the human body. In this sense, the researcher aimed to develop the prototype of a slim-fit tailored jacket that fits the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s well. For the purpose of this research, slim-fit tailored jackets from existing brands were collected and analyzed, and a subsequent wearability test was conducted based on the standard somatotype of women in their 30s. The research patterns were prototype of the developed slim fit tailored jacket are bust size of 3.8 cm, waist of 7 cm, and hip size of 3.8 cm. Then the research patterns were selected to develop the prototype of a properly fitting slim-fit tailored jacket. As outlined above, the development of a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype for the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s was conducted by solving the fitness issues of existing brands in order to produce properly fitting jackets that satisfy consumers.

• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.151-163
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• 2008

This study was undertaken to design Ginyeo's character and costume in the early-middle Goryeo Dynasty which had a few relics, and to make practical cultural contents. The famous Goryeo Ginyeos who had real names are costume characters. Goryeo women dressed in delicate white ramie jarket in "Goryeo-dokyung", and the shape of Jacket can be two kinds: long-wide jacket enough to tie a belt, and long caftan cover the knee. Goryeo women enjoyed wide yellow skirt, but Ginyeo in "Dongguk-isanggutjip" put on pink, flower, pomegranate, red skirt for high class ladies. In the case of Mong-su(a head cloth with black gauze train), it is thought that Ginyeo fold up train like lower class or just hang down like ordinary women, because of their status. As underwear, a ramie jacket and wide underpants were set up. It is needed that many Golden bells and jade trinkets must be attached to Goryeo Ginyeo's waist to stress their characteristics. Ginyeo's hair style can be designed so that a bunch of right hair was dropped down and the rest hair was rolled on reft shoulder. To design a Ginyeo's costume chatacter of the early-middle Goryeo, the richness of wide skirt, delicacy of white ramie, a great deal of trinkets must be emphasized correctly as a characteristic of Goryeo women's costume in that period.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1171-1189
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• 2014

In order to provide the basic data for creating the environment which can efficiently reflect prefer fit along with body size when selecting clothes size in the indirect purchasing environment, this study analyzed the difference of ready-made jacket part-specific fit preferred by fashion models in their twenties and female college students. This study was to analyze the impact of body size, recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape, body satisfaction on prefer fit of jacket. As for the difference of prefer fit depending on the body size, female college students preferred more loose fit than models. The difference according to recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape turned out to be significant for prefer fit depending on the degree of bend of neck, arm length, bend of back recognition and matching fit was found to be preferred as they recognize their body shape to be normal and the difference according to body satisfaction appeared to be significant in the terms of bend of back, hip width/protrusion, torso size/length, sleeve length, whole body shape and they turned out to prefer matching fit as they are satisfied with their body. As shown above, body size, recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape, especially body satisfaction have a great influence on prefer fit of jacket and therefore, if preparing for a size selection step according to body shape and satisfaction in the jacket size selection process, customers' satisfaction in jacket size may be improved and it is considered to be helpful for both consumers and sellers.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.15-22
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• 2016

본 연구는 20대 여성에 대한 재킷의 실제착의와 컴퓨터 시뮬레이션으로 재현된 가상착의 상태를 디자이너 집단과 패터너 집단이 비교 분석하여 가상착의 시스템의 개선 방향을 제시하는 것을 목적으로 수행되었다. 착의 방식에 따른 디자이너 집단의 외관평가 차이 분석에 있어서 앞면에 대한 개 항목 옆면에 대한 개 항목 뒷면에 대한 1개 항목 소매에 대한 개 항목 칼라에 대한 개 항목에서 평가에 대한 차이가 있었다. 착의 방식에 따른 패터너 집단의 외관평가 차이 분석에 있어서 옆면에 대한 개 항목 뒷면에 대한 개 항목 소매에 대한 개 항목 칼라에 대한 개 항목에서 평가에 대한 차이가 있었으며 모든 항목에서 가상착의의 모습이 더 아름답다고 하였다. 착의 방식에 따른 외관평가에 있어서 디자이너 집단과 패터너 집단의 평가가 차이가 있었으며 이는 디자이너 집단과 패터너 집단이 의복의 맞음새를 평가하는 기준이 다르다는 것을 시사한다.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women's jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women's costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women's jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s' sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s' women's jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s' jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s' sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s' sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s' sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women's jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women's jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.138-155
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• 2012

Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.731-742
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• 2001

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the harmony of colors of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket. 3 colors of jacket and 6 colors of skirt were combined by 4 kind of colors tone. The Korean women college students and the American women college students (University of Wisconsin-Madison) were selected to evaluate the harmony of colors. It could be supposed that the different evaluation were caused by their different cultural backgrounds. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. When colors were combined with four tone(vivid, light, dull and dark), American students evaluated the same colors of red skirt and red jacket, green skirt and green jacket as harmonized coloration. But Korean students thought they were not harmonized. The yellow colors of jacket and the similar colors of red skirt were evaluated as harmonized by both Korean and American students. They evaluated the green jacket and the red skirt of contrast color as harmonized. The different tone of color caused the different evaluation of harmony of colors by both Korean and American students.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.