• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.61-75
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• 2015

This research aims to analyze the prep-hop fashion, which is an original look created through the convergence of the hip-hop and preppy look, and identify the design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion. The style mixes the fashion of what was traditionally a lower-class look with the upper class. The design characteristics are as follows: First, the prep-hop fashion expresses slim, casual and sophisticated look with items and silhouettes. The items are categorized into jackets, shirts and pants. The prep-hop jackets provides a casual look to its wearer unlike the jackets of preppy or conservative looks. Slim suits show different meanings and features depending on the changes in the time and culture despite the continued use of the items. Second, the colors of the prep-hop fashion include overall basic colors used in the preppy look and hip-hop fashion. The aesthetic values of the colors express pleasant color images different from the conservative and resistant images expressed in the preppy and hip-hop style before the convergence, respectively. Third, the materials and patterns are expressed in a unique way to fulfill the emotional needs that are considered vital to contemporary fashion. The materials in the prep-hop fashion extend the ranges of usage by using the materials with unexpectedness broken out of general range of usage. While the use of the patterns is one of the methods to demonstrate that the prep-hop fashion is created by the convergence between hip-hop fashion and preppy look, the meaning concludes pleasantness and casualness different from the past. Fourth, the prep-hop fashion is mainly composed of hip-hop fashion accessories, which express the authenticity of the hip-hop fashion to protect the non-mainstream characteristics. The design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion pursue the individuality of the contemporary fashion, which lacks originality due to commercialization. The development of the prep-hop fashion, as a new form that combined contrasting genres and trends, is expected to develop more publicly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.29-41
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to improve the fitness of clothes by producing patterns considering body proportions at a time of producing clothes for export through extracting factors comprising body types and conducting comparative analysis of proportions by body part using body indexes of Korean women in their 20s living in both Korea and foreign countries. The study results are as follows. Factor analysis by group was conducted for body indexes in order to examine body types of Koreans living overseas. As a results, six factors were extracted from all of three groups; Joseonjok(Koreans living in China), Goryeoin(Koreans living in Russia) and Korean residents in Japan, and their explanatory powers were 60.42%, 63.62%, 63.15%, respectively. Obesity factor was extracted as the 1st factor, and the groups showed differences in other factors. As a result of proportion comparison using body indexes of Koreans living in foreign countries and Korea, it was found that, in height item, when regarding the height as 100, the length of the lower part of the body was long in the order of Goryeoin. Joseonjok, Koreans living in Korea and Korean residents in Japan. Also in width item, when regarding the waist as a standard, it was observed that Joseonjok people have the shoulders, the breasts and the hips that look relatively wider comparing with the width of the waists because they have very narrow waists and the width between shoulder length is big. In addition, the study examined proportions of the breast thickness/the breast width, the waist thickness/the waist width, the hip thickness/the hip width to height. From the analysis, it was found that breasts of Koreans living in Korea are flattest while their waists are slender, and Goryeoin and Joseonjok have round body shapes from the waist to the breast.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.69-79
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• 2019

This study aims to seek knitting methods that can enhance the neck design of seamless knitwear and to find out how to improve the designs by comparing and analyzing the characteristics of the knitting methods used for v-neck pullovers. The investigator analyzed the characteristics of the knitting methods and assessed the wearing sensation by using six different pieces of clothing for the experiment. The results were analyzed based on a variance analysis (ANOVA). Among the items showing significant results, the Duncan-test was used for more intensive research. As a result, while using the basic pattern of knitting methods, Experiment Clothes A ended up binding on the back neckline, and not making the hem of back. Also, the neck was the widest. In the case of the special neck, Experimental Clothes B (1:1), which had the least number of the knitting course in relation to the knitting ratio, the bottom part of the back body had the most wrinkles. According to the result of wearing sensation, the front part, the side part, and the back part showed similar results (p<0.000) in all items. Specifically, the appearance of the Experiment Clothes A (normal) in both the front and rear aspects were evaluated as the best. In the case of the special neck, the Experimental Clothes F was ranked the highest, whereas the Experimental Clothes B (1:1) was ranked the lowest. Based on the results of the study, it seems possible to provide concrete and technical data for the planning of unique and productive designs. With regard to seamless knitwear neck designs, a comparative analysis of the knitting method of v-neck pullovers will be of practical use in the development and manufacturing of the product.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.122-134
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• 2011

The peanut-shaped cloth diaper has cut uncomfortable crotch region off the square-shaped cloth diaper into a peanut-shape, and finished the edge by bias with multi-layers of fabric. This study has the purpose on providing the basic data for designing the peanut-shaped cloth diaper. For this purpose, the peanut-shaped cloth diapers on market were collected and analyzed by their shape and size, and also the patterns and differences in making were compared. 26 products from 17 brands were collected as samples. The analysis factors are the shape and size of the peanut-shaped cloth diaper, and characteristics and patterns in making. Among the samples, only 3 diapers were straight-shaped; the rest of them were peanut-shaped. The size difference between the big and small peanut-shaped cloth diapers was very large; the total length of the small one was 36.5cm-39cm which was very common, and the total length of the big one was more than 44cm. All diapers had longer width in the back than the front. The width of the front and back was different for each sample, therefore, it seemed to have some difficulties to set the standard. The peanut-shaped cloth diaper had different make-up depending on its characteristics including. absorbance, washing and drying. It was usually made by cotton woven of diamond jacquard or knit, and finished the edge by woven bias or knit bias. The peanut-shaped cloth diapers were various including a sheet of diaper, two sheets of diapers fixed with velcro, three sheets of diapers, and etc. For the patterns of the diapers, only two samples out of all had three dimensional shape, and the rest were produced using flat shape. There were no distinction between the diapers of girls and boys. Therefore, it is necessary to make the product based on scientific data about the peanut-shaped cloth diaper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.129-146
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• 2004

The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1141-1154
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• 2009

As a preliminary research of body characteristics analysis of Korean obese woman, this study aims to select optimal obesity judgment tools for reliable sampling of obese subjects from 2,425 female measurement data out of 2004 Size Korea project's raw data. From previous researches related to obesity, 7 obesity judgment tools were chosen. 2007 obesity rate(26.3%) of Korean female adults was refered in selecting optimal obesity judgment criteria in the study. The results are as follows. Firstly, it was verified that BMI was the most suitable in judging and sampling the obese subjects by the percentile analysis. R$\ddot{o}$hrer index was also reliable in grouping the obese subjects from a population. Secondly, it was concluded that the obesity ratios of relative weight 120 and higher group, R$\ddot{o}$hrer index 1.6 and higher group and waist girth 80cm and higher group were the most similar to obesity rate of Korean female adults by 2007 National Health & Nutrition Survey. Thirdly, 30 direct measurements, age, 2 drop values and 6 ratios of 7 groups by the obesity judgment tools showed the significance each other at p<0.001 level. On the other hand, "bust point to bust point" and "waist to hip length" measurements didn't show the significant differences among 7 groups. Conclusively, 4 to 5 satisfactions out of 7 obesity judgment criteria were adequate and sufficient in sampling the obese subjects. If it is needed the strict criteria for judging the obesity, 5 satisfactions and higher group will be the best choice as the obese subjects. However 4 satisfactions and higher group generally, will be adequate for sampling of the obese subjects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.880-892
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• 2017

In this study, the appearance change and the heat moisture transfer properties of knitted fabric by yarn shrinkage were examined to obtain useful data on the development of thermo-sensitive functional materials. Eleven types of knitted fabric were knitted using highly bulky acrylic-blended yarn. After shrinking the specimens using dry heat treatment, the appearance change and thickness were measured. An HEC simulator was adopted for measuring the heat moisture transfer properties of specimens by yarn shrinkage. When holes were arranged vertically in the mesh structure, the specimens with 2,500 and 5,000 holes showed high percent change of hole area, appearance, and thickness. When holes were diagonally arranged in the mesh structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 1,250 holes was larger than the one with 2,500 holes. However, the dimensional stability of the specimen with 2,500 holes was better because of its smaller appearance and thickness change. In the tuck structure, the percent change of hole area in the specimen with 625 and 416 holes was relatively large compared with the appearance and thickness change. Furthermore, the hole size in the tuck structure was smaller than that in the mesh structure but the percent change of hole area was larger. Therefore, it was proved that the tuck structure is more suitable than the mesh structure for developing thermo-sensitive functional materials. Heat moisture transfer property test verified that the change of hole area by yarn shrinkage enabled obtaining the thermal effect due to the distinct temperature difference in the inner layer.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.113-125
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• 2012

This study, as one on the neck design of seamless knitwears, set out to make experimental clothes applying various knitting methods to the hem of round neck, seek the knitting methods of finishing touches on the ending part of round neck to enhance function and aesthetic appreciation through measuring tensile strength and assessing wearing sensation, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to developing the design of seamless knitwears and mass production in the national knit industry. The ending part of neck of the seamless knitwear is not only the last stage in making knitwear but also affects the function and appearance of the clothes. The investigator, thus made six different pieces of experimental clothes according to the finishing methods of knitting on the neck, then measured tensile strength and put them to the test by a group of experts for the assessment of wearing sensation. The results were analyzed based on variance analysis(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results of measuring tensile strength, Experimental Clothes B received the highest evaluation, Experimental Clothes E the lowest. Also Experimental Clothes B was ranked the highest in almost every evaluation criteria, whereas Experimental Clothes E was ranked the lowest in the assessment of wearing sensation.