• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.548-560
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• 2009

This study was conducted to investigate purchasing behavior of jeans consumers and to find differences in jeans evaluative criteria according to consumers' characteristics. Male and female university students participated in the study. Quota sampling method was used to collect the data. Data from 492 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. Descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and t-test were conducted. Three factors of jeans evaluative criteria classified (i.e., external criteria, internal/aesthetic criteria, internal/quality criteria). Results indicated that most of respondents put on jeans wear more than three times per a week and 38.1% of respondents reported that they owned three to four jeans products on average. Department store was the most used place to buy jeans product with 44.2%. 27.5% of respondents spent from 50,000 won to 100,000 won on purchasing jeans. Style was the highest important jeans evaluative criterion with 36.2%, followed by fitness, price, color, condition of washing treatment. Women respondents considered aesthetic criteria and quality criteria more importantly than men did. Respondents who were on a high income and spent more than 200,000 won per a month on apparel more concerned aesthetic criteria and external criteria than the other respondents did. Results of this study provide a basis for understanding jeans consumers' purchase behavior and evaluative criteria.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.10
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.231-238
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to identify characteristics and consumer attitude on purchasing apparel of Cable TV home-shopping viewer: A questionnaire was developed to measure watching attributes, consumers' attitude and actual purchasing condition of Cable TV home shopping, and demographic variables. The questionnaire was administered to 277 adult, and the data were analyzed by using frequency; crosstab, t-test, ANOVA. The results of this study were as follows: 1. main view time were 3~5 p.m. 11 p.m, 10~12 a.m. home shopping through Cable Tv. Women's main terms were afternoon, whereas men's main terms were night. Chiefly view program was about apparel and fashion items. The reason why they watched the home-shopping channel was to purchase more cheaper items. 2. Favor about Cable TV home-shopping was relatively affirmative, but purchasing intention through home-shopping was still negative. But affirmative response was gradually increasing a few years ago. 3. Purchasing experience through Cable TV home shopping was 61.0% and clothing purchaser within recently 6 months was 28.5% of total sample. Withspreading Cable TV widely; Cable TV home shopper was gradually increasing. Heavy purchasing items through Cable TV home-shopping were under-wear; muffler, shawl, because those items are standardized in size and style. When home shopping user made purchasing decision, the most significant factors were color; and size (fit), price in order of importance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.35-46
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to modify a Flared Skirt for women according to the somatotype of lower body. The subjects for the wear test were 3 students, who were in mean${\pm}1{\sigma}$ each somatotype. As seen in the study, it was found out that there was a difference in three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body even in the group of whom the body heights, measured by Martin's system, are alike. Due to such a difference in the three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body, it was found out to be a difference in drapability of the flare skirts. In order to have better fitness of the lower part of the body and to raise the visual effect, therefore, it is suggested that there need to develop a new model of the flare skirts considering three dimensional shape of the lower part of the body for the wearer or to take complementary measures for each body shape in case of applying traditional model.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2008

This study aims to consolidate the qualitative growth of knit design thru the creation of high value-added brand and design, in the state of active trend for competitive promotion of professional knit brand, by collapsing the border line between the knitwear market and the woven one. In accordance with the market situation of increasing a demand of knitwear products, I wish to awaken the importance of knit design thru this study, to survey domestic knit brand products and their planning directions and to plan for the high value-added knitwear products, thru presenting the problems of knit industry and developing knitwear design. This study is focused on showing process of planning and items developed personally by me in charge of developing products practically at the job site of knit industry. From the stage of planning for goods, I suggested the 2007 s/s goods of M company as a strategy of distinctiveness caused by the problems with rival companies, and also proposed a method conducted by the actual business. Setting up M company's s/s concept of the year 2007, I suggested a plan of quantity, time of forwarding, color, fabrics, etc. as well as the process and schedule thru order, and based on the above result, I made a planning for 2007 s/s knitwear for middle-aged women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.56 no.6
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• pp.527-539
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• 2018

This study analyzed the substitute behavior of mothers of infants or elementary-school-aged children in terms of consumption. For this study, in-depth interviews were conducted with women residing in the Seoul metropolitan area who show significant interest in their children. The interviews were analyzed based on the grounded theory. The findings of this study are as follows. First, mothers show substitute behavior for their children's appearance. The younger the children, the more substitute consumption exhibited by mothers. As children grow older and are able to choose what to wear, mothers show less substitute behavior tendencies regarding appearance management. Second, mothers tend to exhibit substitute behavior regarding their children's academic achievements. Mothers hope their children will be more successful than themselves were or will achieve the dreams that they failed to accomplish, which drives substitute behavior. Mothers affectionately provide children with financial support so they can obtain academic achievement and they hope their children will have successful occupations in the future. Third, mothers who are not satisfied with their appearance and have low self-esteem are more likely to exhibit substitute behavior with their children. This study will be helpful in understanding mothers' motivation and psychological factors regarding the support of their children.