• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.49-62
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• 1998

This study investigates the color of daily clothes of middle era of Yi dynasty by examining the color of excavated clothing which was the real clothes in 16th and 17th centuries. The purposes of this study lie in understanding emotional feeling observed by exact measurement of the color of the excavated and devising a method of reserving the color of the excavated by inspecting the discolored color of the excavated. For this, the color difference was measured by color measuring system. Minolta Chroma-meter, and then recorded in L*a*b system. The 3-dimensional color difference was observed by analyzing these data on Methmetica and change in color with ageing was assessed by reconstructing the color by Phoposhop. The color construction of daily clothes of middle era of the Chosun Dynasty was founded on a philosophy, and it was made up of colors such as white, brown, and blue. This color construction seemed to be based on the philosophy of naturalism symbolizing surrounding nature, e.g., white symbolizes Bak-sasang(bak-philosophy) and blue implies Eumyangohangsul.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.168-183
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• 2014

When expressing Jesus Christ visually in the medieval Christian paintings, the most important issue was portraying Christ's divinity and humanity in a balanced manner; showing both attributes as Son of God and a human being. The purpose of the study is to examine both the formative and the symbolic characteristics of divinity and humanity on Christ's clothes in the Medieval paintings, Baptism of Christ. In the paintings, there are iconographical devices to show His divinity including God, Holy Spirit, the Trinity and the Jordan River. But Christ's body is definite evidence to show his humanity. In connection with the body, the clothes reveal Christ's humanity and divinity as well. Through this research, the study found that the divinity and humanity on the Christ's clothes in the baptism of Christ were as follows: Blue, gole, purple, and white are the emblem of divinity, while the colors red and white stand for the humanity of Christ. In addition, the divinity of christ is expressed through the decoration on the clothes, while the humanity of Christ is shown through the structured drapery and transparent material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.101-116
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• 2005

The study with the subjects of the female consumers of the fomentation rooms in their 20s, this research made an investigation of the fomentation wear. Also, dye-fastness experiments of the wear's colors against washing and sweating were held. The following are the conclusions; 1. Survey Results of the Present Situations of Fomentation Wear Designs of the fomentation wear, 88% belonged to a T-shirt (upper clothes) and knee pants. The primary colors of the wear were in the order of gray (37.5%), white (31.3%), orange (25%), indigo (18.8%), and yellowish (18.8%). 43% of the wear companies used the same color for two-piece clothes, and 57% employed different colors for upper and lower clothes. 2. Consumers' Attitude about Fomentation Wear The key problem in the attitude to the wear, 25.9% pointed out the worries about physical exposure (like breasts and legs) owing to the improperness in designs and sizes. 32.8% of the subjects were also worried about physical silhouette exposure following sweating. The need for design improvement was felt as the subjects expressed their intention to use better fomentation wear in design and materials if the fare is higher. 3. Experimental Results of the Dye fastness of the Fomentation Wear Dye-fastness experiments by sweating appeared in the order of gray > white > pink. The results by washing were gray & white > pink. As laundry grew in number, the grade of dye fastness fell a little bit. In the fomentation environment with more laundry and more perspiration, dye fastness of the wear's colors against washing and sweating should be fully considered.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• no.11
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• pp.87-94
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• 1970

This study was conducted in order to find out the tendency of sericultural woman's clothes. This data was based on random samples of 183 sericultural women throughout the country, and was derived from the investigation of c1othes (western and Korean-style) which had been made during the years, 1967∼1969. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Western-style clothes were about twice as popular as Korean-style, and more evident among the young women. It was also shown that the ratioes mentioned above were gradually decreased year by year. 2. Most popular among the western-style clothes were blouses, one-piece dresses and skirts. Jogori(coat) and Cheema(long skirt) were favorites among the Korean-styled clothes. One-piece dresses showed increasing tendency of use year by year. 3. Costume-made clothes were much more in number than the home-made and the ready-made types. The home-made and the ready-made clothes increased as the ages increased. 4. Western-styled clothes were popular in summer seasons while Korean-styled clothes were popular in the winter time. Among the western-styled clothes one-pieces dresses and two-piece suits were most popular during the spring through autumn. In Korean clothes the Cheema was popular all year round. 5. Western-style clothes were mostly made of polyester and their blends. Silk was the least used fabric. On the contrary, most of Korean-style clothes were made of silk and their blends. The synthetic fibers showed increasing use year by year. 6. Favorite colors were in order; white, blue, brown, and black in western-style clothes; white, blue, green, and gray were in Korean style clothes. Young women teaded to have a wider preference of colors than the older women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.411-421
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• 2000

Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.45-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to find the present condition on dementia patients clothes design including shapes, colors, construction and details in domestic. This research was for confirming the present problems, suggestions, and basic informations for development dementia patients clothes proto-types. The research methods and process were as follows; 1. The total 20 institutes (5 dementia specialty hospitals, 3 the senior hospitals and 11 nursing care centers) were researched during from June to August, 2005 by trained researchers who had experiences researches. 2. The total 30 nurses and care-givers were interviewed for find the present problems related the dementia patients clothes. 3. The total 39 suits for dementia patients clothes were collected and the design analysed such like shapes, colors, constructions and details by taking pictures and drawing flat works. 4. The present condition about the clothes and problems were found and suggest new ideas. The results were belows; 1 The most of institutes of domestic area had two piece type like general hospital patients' clothes for dementia patients clothes. It means there are no concerning now for old dementia patients. 2. The white colors were firstly used as fabric ground and secondly pale tone or pastel tone colors were used The blue and pink were used as pattern colors. The pattern colors were usually moderate tones. 3. The characteristics of constructions and details were round neckline, buttons, full-length sleeves, straight pants, ankle length pants. 4. New functional fabrics and designs for emotional satisfaction were demanded for dementia patients.