• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.26-35
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Korean domestic and foreign looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. Paper is divided by two parts. In this 1st paper, fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^\circledR$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol$-GTX^\circledR$ rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position, the relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.48-53
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.673-679
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• 2005

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of the coefficient of friction(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by Omega$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Vamatex-P1001ES$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment. Fabric thickness was also measured and discussed according to the fabric positions such as center and each of fabrics with two looms weaving tensons.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the friction coefficient(MIU), mean deviation of the friction coefficient(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by OmegaR rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol-GTXR rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment.

• Korean Journal of Computational Design and Engineering
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.70-79
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• 2017

Weft straightener is an important process to control the final quality of the fabrics. It is needed to calibrate the distorted weft after dyeing process. During various fabric treatment processes, the fabric is almost done with heat treatment through a tenter machine. At this time, weft distortion is occurred with uneven tension distribution. Traditionally, photo sensor is commonly used to detect the weft distortion but it is not applicable for special fabric types such as twill, mesh, combi, etc. In this paper, a new method for detecting the weft distortion using camera is introduced. A new weft straightener simulator is also developed to test the ability of the proposed method. It is shown that the method can be applied for various fabric types.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Intelligent Systems Conference
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• 2000.11a
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• pp.335-339
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• 2000

In the weaving process, tension control of the warp is important. The variation of the warp tension cause irregularities of the weft density and low quality of the woven fabrics. Due to the fact that the warp tension varies in depending on the difference between take-up velocity and let-off velocity, it is necessary to regulate the velocity of let-off in relation to that of take-up for keeping the warp tension. Futhermore, the diameter of warp beam changes in the weaving process. The changing diameter of warp beam cause changing inertia of warp beam and the velocity of the let-off. It makes the control of such a system more complex. In this paper, we propose a fuzzy controller for the warp tension control. From the computer simulation, it was observed that a developed fuzzy controller has a better performance than that of conventional PI controller.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.145-154
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• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.37-44
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to elucidate the effect of weight loss of polyethylene terephthalate(PET) fabrics on the mechanical properties such as bending and shear. In order to compare the effect of treatment machine on the mechanical properies of treated PET fabrics, PET fabrics were hydrolyzed with NaOH aqueous solution using Tank machine and Liquor flow machine, respectively. The results were as follows ： 1. The bending rigidity and shear stiffness of hydrolyzed PET fabric decreased markedly up to about 10％ weight loss regardless of treatment machines. At the above 10％ weight loss, the variation of these properties is nearly unchanged. In addition, the bending hysteresis and shear hysteresis also showed similar trend. 2. Weft density change of PET fabrics treated with Liquor flow machine decreased by 1pick/inch. It is assumed that this is attributed to the tension during the treatment of Liquor flow machine. On the other hand, the weft density change of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine is scarcely influeneced by the weight loss. While warp density of PET fabrics treated with Liquor flow machine had no change with weight loss, warp density of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine decreased by 6pick/inch due to the tension. 3. The bending rigidity and shear stiffness of PET fabrics hydrolyzed with liquor flow machine slightly higher than with Tank m/c at the above 10％ weight loss. It is assumed that this is caused by the increasement of the crossing pressure of warp and weft yarn and contact points of filaments in the yarns. Also, the bending and shear hysteresis of PET fabrics treated with Tank machine were higher than that of liquor flow machine.