• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.265-275
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• 2011

Estimation of wave height is the most important factor in the design of coastal structures such as breakwaters. In the present study, typhoon wind distribution was constructed by applying the parametric model of Holland (1980), and numerical simulations on the typhoon-generated waves were carried out using the WAM. The typhoons which affected the southern coast of the Korean Peninsula and several hypothetical typhoons were selected to construct the training sets. Design wave heights were estimated using the empirical simulation technique for various return periods and wave directions. The estimated design wave heights were compared with those by the peaks-over-threshold method and the results of KORDI(2005).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-94
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• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.192-199
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• 2024

Wave overtopping is a significant natural hazard that occurs in coastal areas, primarily driven by high waves, particularly those generated during typhoons, which can cause coastal flooding. The development of residential and commercial areas along the coast, driven by increasing social and economic demands, has led to a concentration of people and assets in these vulnerable areas. This, coupled with long-term sea level rise and an increase in typhoon frequency, has heightened the risk of coastal hazards. Traditionally, the evaluation of wave overtopping volumes has relied on directly measuring the collected volume of water that exceeds the crest height of structures through hydraulic model experiments. These experiments are averaged over a specific measurement period. However, in this study, we propose a new method for estimating individual wave overtopping volumes. We utilize the temporal variation of wave overtopping heights to develop an observation system that can quantitatively assess wave overtopping volumes in actual coastal areas. To test our method, we conducted hydraulic model experiments on rubble mound breakwaters, which are commonly installed along the Korean coast. We introduce wave overtopping discharge coefficients, assuming that the inundation velocity from the structure's crest is the long-wave velocity. We then predict overtopping volumes based on wave overtopping heights and compare and review the results with experimental data. The findings of our study confirm the feasibility of estimating wave overtopping volumes by applying the overtopping discharge coefficients derived in this study to wave overtopping heights.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.123-133
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• 2018

We studied the change process in the design parameters (conditions) of structural sections of vertical/slope breakwaters in Korea over the long term based on an analytical review of the latest design recommendations. This study found the following. 1) Design wave heights have increased gradually with the increase in the wave height of deep sea waves. 2) The relative design wave height ($H_{1/3}/h$) changed from 0.5 in the 1970s to 0.6~0.7 today. This means that design wave heights are overestimated compared with the water depth. 3) Before 1999, the design water level was based on high water during an average spring tide, but this has been increased since 2000 because of additional consideration of anomalous sea levels. 4) Before 1999, the relative crest heights of the investigated breakwaters was 0.6~0.7, but after 1999 this increased to a mean of 1.0 and maximum of 1.26.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.36-45
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• 2017

In the present study, the storm waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 have been reproduced by the wave hindcasting, and then their characteristics were investigated. Before the wave hindcasting, the wave measurements at the Korean Straits were analyzed. The analysis showed that the waves at the Korean Straits were dominated by the Northeastern waves, same as those in the East Sea. Accordingly, the wave hindcasting was been carried out with the same condition in Ahn et al. (2016). In the numerical results, the maximum significant wave height at the Korean Straits was 5.06 m, and the corresponding significant wave period was 9.2 s. The computed significant wave heights and wave periods were overestimated by 4 cm and 0.8 s, respectively. After the wave hindcasting, the computed significant wave heights and peak periods were compared with the JONSWAP relationship. This comparison showed that the storm waves at the Korean Straits were close to wind waves, not swell.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-147
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over seven years near Daejin Harbor located in the north central area of the east coast was analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 6.59 m and was caused by Typhoon No. 1216, SANBA. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both reproduced better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. Meanwhile, the wave data was subdivided by month and wave height level and the cumulative appearance rate was proposed to aid designing and constructing works in nearby coastal areas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.213-223
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to estimate the spherical wave parameters that appears in synthetic aperture radar (SAR) image acquired over the coast of Chukk, Micronesia. The retrieval of ocean wave parameters consists of two main stages: the first is to determine the dominant wavelengths by Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) over 16 sub-image areas and the second is to estimate wave slopes and heights using dispersion relationship under various water wave conditions. It is assumed that the spherical waves are linear and progressive. These type of waves have the range and azimuth components traveling in radial directions. The azimuth travelling waves are more affected by the velocity bunching mechanism and it is difficult to estimate the wave parameters for these affected areas in SAR imagery. In order to compensate these effects, the velocity bunching ratio (VBR) based on modulation transfer function (MTF) was compared with the intensity ratio for neighbor area in the radial direction in order to assign the spherical wave properties for azimuthally travelling waves. Dispersion relation provides the good estimates for the wave heights for all the selected sub-image areas in the range of 1m to 2m. VBR based on MTF was found to be 0.78 at wave height of 1.36m, while the intensity-based VBR was 0.69 which corresponds to the height of 1.75m. It can be said that the velocity bunching accounts for azimuthally travelling spherical waves and the difference results from the sea-bottom effects.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2006

In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.