• Water for future
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 1978

The approaching deep water wave heights and directions affect the wave energy which is carried to the coast. By studing the relations between the longshore wave energy theory and the evolution of coastline, writer can arrive following conclusion. The longshore lottoral drifting affects to a great deal the formation of the coast, and by investigating on the eastern coastal geomophorogy of korea, the theory was proued as a true and made it possible to an approaching to the subdivided classification of eastern coast of lorea. That is to asy that angle taken by the level between the wave crest line of prevailing wave(NE) and the coastline was measured as less than 15#, and in the area neighboring the river which served as source of Sand parrticles, there are grand scale formation of sand beach expectable, in the other hand the formation of sand beach in case of $35^{\circ}{\leq}{\alpha }o{\leq}55^{\circ}$ which represents the vivid phenomena of longshore littoral drifting was proved not influencial but rather transformed into a rocky coast. Depending on the above facts the writer classified general shape of the coast affected by the vivid wave action into the following three, (1) The equilibrium beach. (2) Erosinal beach. (3) Geomophorogical beach, and made the sandy and rocky coast are subdivided as S-A.B.C. and R-DEF.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.530-541
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• 2019

To improve our current understanding of tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with a row of vertical slotted piles on a sloping beach, a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ was developed in this study. The Navier-Stokes equations were employed to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combining with an improved VOF method to track the free surface and a LES model to resolve the turbulence. The numerical model was firstly validated by our laboratory measurements of wave, flow and dynamic pressure around both a row of piles and a single pile on a slope subjected to solitary waves. Subsequently, a series of numerical experiments were conducted to analyze the breaking wave force in view of varying incident wave heights, offshore water depths, spaces between adjacent piles and beach slopes. Finally, a slamming coefficient was discussed to account for the breaking wave force impacting on the piles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.401-409
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• 2023

Oscillating water column (OWC) type wave power generator system is a power generation system that uses wave energy, a sustainable and renewable energy source. Irregular cycles and wave heights act as factors that make it difficult to secure generation efficiency of the wave power generator system. Recently, research for improving power generation efficiency is being conducted by applying digital twin technology to OWC type wave energy converter system. However, digital twin using sensor data can predict erroneous performance due to uncertainty in the sensor data. Therefore, this study proposes an uncertainty analysis method for sensor data which is used in digital twin to secure the reliability of digital twin prediction results. Uncertainty quantification considering sensor data characteristics and future uncertainty information according to uncertainty propagation were derived mathematically, and confidence interval estimation was performed based on the proposed method.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.18-29
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• 2024

Waves are a complex phenomenon in marine and coastal areas, and accurate wave prediction is essential for the safety and resource management of ships at sea. In this study, three types of machine learning techniques specialized in nonlinear data processing were used to predict the waves of Korea waters. An optimized algorithm for each area is presented for performance evaluation and comparison. The optimal parameters were determined by varying the window size, and the performance was evaluated by comparing the mean absolute error (MAE). All the models showed good results when the window size was 4 or 7 d, with the gated recurrent unit (GRU) performing well in all waters. The MAE results were within 0.161 m to 0.051 m for significant wave heights and 0.491 s to 0.272 s for periods. In addition, the GRU showed higher prediction accuracy for certain data with waves greater than 3 m or 8 s, which is likely due to the number of training parameters. When conducting marine and offshore research at new locations, the results presented in this study can help ensure safety and improve work efficiency. If additional wave-related data are obtained, more accurate wave predictions will be possible.

• Journal of Fisheries and Marine Sciences Education
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2013

The aim of this study was estimated the characteristics of the wave propagation by the water level conditions using a numerical modeling method at the Wando sea area. For three cases numerical simulation on the condition of incident and incoming of the deepwater design wave and the season normal wave, the spatial distribution of the incident wave at study area were investigated. And the calculated numerical modeling results were compared with measured field wave data. According to on-site wave data measured for 18 days, the range of the significant wave height and period were 0.10~1.14 m, 4.35~8.74 sec, respectively, and the maximum wave height were 0.15~1.66 m. From the results of numerical model for offshore design wave incident, the wave height attacked from Southern-East direction at this study area were over maximum 10.5 m because of rapidly change of water depth. Numerical modeling by three water level conditions of Approxmate Lowest Low Water Level(Approx. L.L.W), Mean Sea Level(M.S.L) and Approximate Highest High Water Level(Approx. H.H.W) were practiced. From the results for the case of Approx. H.W.L, variations of wave height at the back area of islands were about 1.6 m at maximum value for the case of deepwater design wave incoming. The significant wave heights of winter season were bigger than summer under normal wave condition, the incident wave height over 5.5 m decreased by shielding effect of islands. The change of maximum wave height at summer season were distinct than winter and was about 1.2 m and 0.8 m, respectively.

• Water for future
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.159-168
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• 1995

The run-up and the evolution of solitary waves on steep beaches are investigated by using a two-dimensional boundary integral equation model. The model is first used to compute the run-up heights of solitary waves on a relatively mind slope. The model is verified by comparing the computed numerical solutions with available experimental data, other numerical solutions and approximated analytical solutions. The agreement between the present numerical solutions and the other data is found to be excellent. The model is then applied to the calculation of run-up heights on very steep slopes. As far as the maximum run-up of solitary waves is concerned, the boundary integral equation model provides reasonable and reliable solutions. Finally, the evolution on steep beaches is also examined and the obtained wave heights are compared with those calculated from the Green's law.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.449-457
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• 1998

Using a numerical model solving the shallow-water equations, unusual huge run-up heights observed in the lees of both Babi and Okushiri islands were investigated in detail. The effects of incident tsunami widths were particularly examined by adjusting the transverse length of the wave-maker in laboratory and numerical experiments. The calculated run-up heights were compared with the laboratory experimental data. It has been found that the run-up heights in the lee of a conical island are strongly dependent on the ratio of a transverse length of incident tsuanmis to a base diameter of the island. Keywords : shallow-water equations, tsunami, run-up height, conical island.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.14-25
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• 1998

This paper describes the numerical modelling for the steady and unsteady forces of 3-D wings flying near the free surface based on a potential based panel method. For the steady problem where a wing flies over the fixed float surface, steady lift and drag forces are calculated for wings with and without end-plates having different sections, angle of attacks, aspect patios and flying heights. These numerical results are compared with the wind tunnel test results. The unsteady problem is treated as a boundary value one where a wing flies over the described wavy surface. The unsteady lift force variations of a wing due to different wave lengths and heights are calculated at different flying heights.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.259-271
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• 2019

A statistical downscaling method was adopted in order to establish the high-resolution wave prediction system in the East Sea coastal area. This system used forecast data from the Global Wave Watch (GWW) model, and the East Sea and Busan Coastal Wave Watch (CWW) model operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). We used the CWW forecast data until three days and the GWW forecast data from three to seven days to implement the statistical downscaling method (inverse distance weight interpolation and conditional merge). The two-dimensional and station wave heights as well as sea surface wind speed from the high-resolution coastal prediction system were verified with statistical analysis, using an initial analysis field and oceanic observation with buoys carried out by the KMA and the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA). Similar to the predictive performance of the GWW and the CWW data, the system has a high predictive performance at the initial stages that decreased gradually with forecast time. As a result, during the entire prediction period, the correlation coefficient and root mean square error of the predicted wave heights improved from 0.46 and 0.34 m to 0.6 and 0.28 m before and after applying the statistical downscaling method.

• Ocean Science Journal
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.245-254
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• 2006

Long term wave climate of both extreme wave and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is not enough to provide reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. Basic data base of hindcasted wave parameters such as significant wave height, peak period and direction has been established continuously for the period of 25 years starting from 1979 and for major 106 typhoons for the past 53 years since 1951 for each grid point of the North East Asia Regional Seas with grid size of 18 km. Wind field reanalyzed by European Center for Midrange Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used for the simulation of waves for the extra-tropical storms, while wind field calculated by typhoon wind model with typhoon parameters carefully analyzed using most of the available data was used for the simulation of typhoon waves. Design wave heights for the return period of 10, 20, 30, 50 and 100 years for 16 directions at each grid point have been estimated by means of extreme wave analysis using the wave simulation data. As in conventional methodsi of design criteria estimation, it is assumed that the climate is stationary and the statistics and extreme analysis using the long-term hindcasting data are used in the statistical prediction for the future. The method of extreme statistical analysis in handling the extreme vents like typhoon Maemi in 2003 was evaluated for more stable results of design wave height estimation for the return periods of 30-50 years for the cost effective construction of coastal structures.