• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Earthquakes and Structures
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.305-320
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• 2015

The present paper is devoted to study SH-wave propagation in heterogeneous layer laying over an inhomogeneous isotropic elastic half-space. The dispersion relation for propagation of said waves is derived with Green's function method and Fourier transform. As a special case when the upper layer and lower half-space are homogeneous, our derived equation is in agreement with the general equation of Love wave. Numerically, it is observed that the velocity of SH-wave increases with the increase of inhomogeneity parameter.

• Journal of the Chungcheong Mathematical Society
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

In this work, we obtain new solitary wave solutions for some nonlinear partial differential equations. The Jacobi elliptic function rational expansion method is used to establish new solitary wave solutions for the combined KdV-mKdV and Klein-Gordon equations. The results reveal that Jacobi elliptic function rational expansion method is very effective and powerful tool for solving nonlinear evolution equations arising in mathematical physics.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.389-399
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• 2009

Subsurface pressure gauge has many advantages in measuring a wide range of wave spectra in coastal waters from wind waves to long waves. However, a shortcoming of the gauge is related to the difficulties in recovering surface wave spectra from subsurface pressure records. In this study, the effect of current on the pressure transfer function of the pressure gauge, and hence on the surface wave energy spectrum, was investigated by analyzing the subsurface pressure data based on the linear wave theory. For this purpose, laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave-current flume. Subsurface pressure records, as well as the surface elevation data, were obtained simultaneously under different wave and current conditions. Pressure transfer functions were obtained and compared with those estimated from the linear wave theory, both with and without inclusion of the current-effect. It was established that wave spectra obtained from subsurface pressure gauge were in closer agreement with those from surface wave gauge when current-effect on the pressure transfer function was taken into consideration for analysis.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.274-279
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over eleven years near Sokcho Harbor located in the central area of the east coast were analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 8.95 m caused by the East Sea twister. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both fitted better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. The wave data were compiled to subdivide the wave height into intervals for each month, and the cumulative occurrence rates of wave heights were calculated to be utilized for the design and construction works in nearby construction works.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.10 no.1_2
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• pp.119-130
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• 2002

An extended Jacobin elliptic function method is presented for constructing exact travelling wave solutions of nonlinear partial differential equations(PDEs) in a unified way. The main idea of this method is to take full advantage of the elliptic equation that Jacobin elliptic functions satisfy and use its solutions to replace Jacobin elliptic functions in Jacobin elliptic function method. It is interesting that many other methods are special cases of our method. Some illustrative equations are investigated by this means.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.77-84
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• 1998

Based on experimental analysis, the characteristics of pulsating pressure wave propagation is clarified by testing of 4-stroke gasoline engine. The pulsating pressure wave in exhaust system is generated by pulsating gas flow due to working of exhaust valve. The pulsating pressure wave is closely concerned to the loss of engine power according to back pressure and exhaust noise. It is difficult to exactly calculate pulsating pressure wave propagation in exhaust system because of nonlinear effect. Therefore, in the first step for solving these problems, this paper contains experimental model and analysis method which are applied two-port network analysis. Also, it shows coherence function, frequency response function, back pressure, and gradient of temperature in exhaust system.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.1-7
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• 2001

Mainly, Floating Breakwaters (FBs) have been constructed in many coastal regions due to the advantages of the coastal environment and construction cost. In general, the FB becomes fixed or its width broadened because the movement of the FB comes to be large and its the wave control function lower for the long period incident waves. This study discusses the wave control function of two-rowed Fixed Floating Breakwater (FFBs) that have narrower width than that of the one-rowed FFB by using numerical approach. Boundary Element Method (BEM) based on the Green formula and Eigenfunction Expansion Method (EEM) are applied to evaluate the three-dimensional wave transformation near the wave fields of two-rowed FFBs. The validity of the present study is confirmed by comparing it with the results of Ijima et al. (1974) and Yoshida et al. (1992) for the one-rowed Fixed Floating Structure. It is revealed that the wave control function of two-rowed FFBs is more effective than that of the one-rowed FFB.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.142-147
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• 2015

Wave data acquired over seven years near Daejin Harbor located in the north central area of the east coast was analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 6.59 m and was caused by Typhoon No. 1216, SANBA. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both reproduced better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. Meanwhile, the wave data was subdivided by month and wave height level and the cumulative appearance rate was proposed to aid designing and constructing works in nearby coastal areas.

• Progress in Superconductivity
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 2010

We propose a variational wave function for the ground state of the magnetic heavy fermion (HF) systems, in which both the Kondo and the RKKY interactions are variationally incorporated and the local f-orbital state exists as a linear combination of a full local moment state and a fully compensated state (mixed wave state). We describe the mechanism for the mixed wave ground state based on the large-N treatment of the Kondo lattice Hamiltonian added with RKKY interaction. With the mixed wave ground state we can explain several puzzling experiments in magnetic HF compounds such as a small value of local moment, coexistence of the antiferromagnetic (AFM) and the paramagnetic (PM) phases, local quantum criticality, etc.