• Title/Summary/Keyword: warp knitting

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A Study on the Design of Knit be based Knitting Technique -Focused on the Exhibition- (니트의 편직기법에 의한 디자인 연구 -작품제작을 중심으로-)

  • 이선희;이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.99-116
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    • 2003
  • Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

Development of Knit Wear Designs for LOHAS (로하스를 위한 니트웨어 디자인 개발)

  • Jang, Ae-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.3
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    • pp.79-92
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

A Study on the Design of Women's Knitwears - Focusing on Stitch and the Handcraft Ornament Technique - (여성(女性) 니트웨어 디자인에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 조직(組織)과 수공예적(手工藝的) 장식기법(裝飾技法)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Hae-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.131-144
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

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Changes of Pulling-out Length and Shrinkage Ratio in Polyester/Spandex Power Net Warp Knitted Fabrics

  • Lee Choon-Gil
    • Fibers and Polymers
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.51-56
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    • 2006
  • Power net fabric is one of the highly extensible two-way fabrics. Power net structure shows special characteristics in the wearing of final functional clothes. This research evaluated effects of treatment temperature on proportional extensibility and shrinkage ratio of spandex at a given wale length. As treatment temperature increased, extensibility increased proportionally to the standard length of the sample and the shrinkage ratio in the direction of course and wale increased. The pulling-out length increased proportionally to the standard length of the sample. However it was affected by the effect of treatment time and temperature due to the thermal properties of spandex filament yarn.

The Effects of Fabric and Sewing Methods on Mechanical Properties of Medical Compression Garments (소재 및 봉제 방법이 의료용 압박복 소재의 역학적 특성에 미치는 영향)

  • Seok, Hye-Jung;Cho, Shin-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.41 no.1
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    • pp.60-70
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    • 2017
  • This study selects representative materials and sewing methods used to: produce medical compression clothing in domestic garment, understand physical properties according to sewing conditions before and after knitting, and propose a sewing method that can improve the functional properties of the medical pressure clothing for burn patients. This experiment used samples from two knitted fabrics of high-frequency, produced and sold among fabrics used to produce medical compression clothing in Korea. Sewing methods were N321, N502 and N601, most commonly used in the press clothing industry. Fabric A is most often reduced in EMT values when sewing N502. However, N321 and N502 are suitable sewing methods for the reliable to twist at the larger torsional shear and the larger 2HG, 2HG5 value. Fabric B is sewn with N601, the EMT value is the most elevated, LT value is also low and extensibility improves after sewing. N601 is shown as an appropriate sewing method for warp knitting. When sewing with N321, the torsional is stable but elongation is lacking. N502 is not good for torsional stability.

A Study on Tricot Textile Design Process using Tricot CAD Program (CAD 프로그램을 활용한 트리코트 텍스타일 디자인 개발 프로세스 연구)

  • Choi, Kyoungme;Kim, Jongjun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2015
  • The appearances and geometry structures of knitted fabrics have important effects on their functions as textile fabrics. Structural design of the woven fabric, prior to the manufacturing processes in the weaving mill, often leads to a similar predictable appearance in the final outcome with the corresponding weave design. The increase of the employment of elastic textile yarns in knitting fabrics for comfort stretch or outdoor sports wear knit products has, however, resulted in difficulties in predicting the final appearance of the knit structure design. Due to the stretchability and exceptional recovery behavior of the elastic yarns such as polyurethane elastomeric yarns, the appearance of the final product often differs from the initial knit design. At textile CAD program for preparing tricot knit designs has been employed in this study to predict the two dimensional appearance of the design. The similarities between the designs and corresponding knit products seem to be acceptable for the two-dimensional textile CAD program in this study. However, when elastomeric yarns are partially employed in the polyester filament tricot product, a considerable amount of departure from the design is apparent due to the constriction and/or deformation of property differences in the elastomeric yarns and polyester filament yarns. Therefore, another purpose of this study is to measure the departure of the final tricot product from the initial tricot design, especially in the case employing elastomeric yarns in the knit structure together with regular polyester filament yarns. For measuring the three-dimensional departure, a 3D scanning system has been used for the mesh reconstruction of the fabric specimen. Hopefully, the result from this study will be used as a guide to modify and improve the current textile CAD program proposed for the two-dimensional simulation of the tricot.

Development of Silk Knits and Modern Hanbok Products Inspired by Traditional "Ra(羅)" (전통 라(羅)를 모방한 실크 편물 및 현대 한복 제품 개발)

  • Jeong Min Kim;Kyung Sun Lee;Seo-Young Kang
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.26 no.3
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    • pp.163-177
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    • 2024
  • Korea has preserved a highly sophisticated silk fabric culture throughout its history. Among these fabrics, Ra (羅) was considered to be a premium gauze fabric that required advanced skill and dedication to utilize. Ra is a complex gauze fabric in which four warp threads are twisted together and intersect with the weft to form intricate holes. This unique structure gives Ra its distinctive transparency and elasticity among silk textiles. It was widely used for veils, garments, and various items from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. However, its complex weaving process limited production efficiency, leading to its decline. Today, Ra has become obsolete. This study focuses on the elastic characteristics of Ra, where intersecting warp threads create net-like structured holes. This stucturre was emulated by developing a silk knit using a Raschel knitting machine. The developed product consists of three types: one replicating the alternating complex structure present in the traditional patterns of Munra (紋羅), another reproducing the distinctive hexagonal holes of the 4-end complex gauze, and the last expressing the hexagonal holes with the weft passing through them. Inspired by Ra's traditional uses in clothing and everyday items, various products were designed and produced. These include a women's coat with Akjureum, a 17th-century Joseon-style women's Jeogori, a modern market-style Jeogori, and a envelope inspired by a Goryeo Dynasty pouch artifact. These items confirm the potential and applicability of the developed silk knit as a material for modern Hanbok products. This study underscores the significance of developing new textiles that incorporate traditional materials, highlighting how tradition can be preserved in diverse ways.

Highly Elastic Two-wire Transmission Line E-textile Band for Smart Wearable Circuit Formation (스마트 웨어러블 회로 구성을 위한 고신축성 이선 전송선형 전자섬유 밴드)

  • Roh, Jung-Sim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.46 no.2
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    • pp.367-374
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    • 2022
  • Herein, a highly elastic e-textile band with a two-wire transmission line was designed and fabricated for smart clothing applications. A conductive yarn with a very uniform low electrical resistance of 0.0357 Ω/cm was developed and used for the signal and ground lines. To control the elasticity of the e-textile band, spandex yarns were added in the warp direction during knitting and the tension was adjusted. As the length of the e-textile band increased, its RF performance deteriorated. Furthermore, the frequency corresponding to -3 dB S21 was lower in the 30% stretched band than in the unstretched band. For the e-textile bands with lengths 10, 50, and 100 cm, the frequencies corresponding to -3 dB S21 were 107.77, 24.56, and 13.02 MHz when not stretched, and 88.74, 22.02, and 12.60 MHz when stretched by 30%. The fabricated bands were flatter, more flexible, and more elastic than transmission line cables; thus, they can be easily integrated into wearables and smart clothing. However, to increase RF performance and achieve optimum utilization, future studies must focus on the fabrication of transmission lines with lower resistance and reduced distance between the signal and ground lines, and thus the number of transmission lines can be increased.