• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.1038-1052
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze present the pattern making of the lining fabrics calculating the right ease and rising quantities of arm-hole when the pattern of the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics is produced. The outcomes of this study are as follows. The right ease of lining fabrics was not room of 0cm as patterns being same the right side of fabrics in the girth of the chest, waist, and the edge of a garment and gets the most excellent valuation, and then the girth of the chest, and waist was applied to 2cm and around the edge of a garment 0cm in regular lining fabrics. In addition to, although the ease of patterns of the lining fabrics was more, it was not necessarily to satisfy. The result of the valuation according to the quantities of rising arm-hole of the pattern of the lining fabrics showed that the making lining fabrics that the quantities of rising arm-hole was 0.8cm in the body and 1.2cm in the sleeve in the both the stretchable fabrics and regular lining fabrics was the most excellent thing, and then 0cm in the body and 2cm in the sleeve, and then 0cm in the body and 0cm in the sleeve. The valuation of external appearance on the quantities of rising arm-hole was recognized similarly because of being rarely significance level, but around the chest and waist was recognized as being significance level in wearing satisfaction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.301-308
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design men's clothing pattern that supplemented the problems of body shapes, by grasping the physical characteristics of middle-aged men and classifying their body shapes through comparing measurements after carrying out the human-body measurement targeting 120 middle-aged men at the age of 35-49 in full. As to the technical-statistic analysis of the measurement items, it could be seen that the middle-aged people who are the research target, have the obese body shapes. As a result of carrying out the factor analysis by the measurement analysis, it was derived the totally five factors such as thickness and width, stature and height, weight and girth, the bust length, and the shoulder shape. The total communality is 78.47%, and as a result of the cluster analysis by the factor score, it was classified into three clusters. Type 1 is the body shape with the great stature, the waist region a little obese, and the biggest thickness, width and girth. It is a flat body shape with the narrow shoulder and the smallest difference between the breast width and the waist width. As type 2 is the body shape that is small stature and is relatively not fat, it is the shape with the biggest difference between the breast width and the waist width and with the wide shoulder. Type 3 is the body shape that belongs to the middle of type 1 and type 2, has the upper-part body longer than other body shapes, and has the developed breast region with the biggest bosom width and bosom thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.189-202
• /
• 2019

This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.5
• /
• pp.58-73
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to improve of fittness and coverage rate of exporting domestic clothing to China for Chinese Adult Female. For study, It was measured 1381 female women aged between 19 and 50 who resident in Beijing and Shanghai in China. as a sample, 1360 female women was seleted for development of apparel sizing system. As for the method of this study was made of 111 items by indirect measures done during Jun. 23 $\sim$ Aug. 7, 2004. Data analysis were processed by SPSS WIN 10.0 Program was used to for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, ANOVA(t-test and F-test), duncan's multiple test. The result was as follows: Chinese Adult women's constitutional components determined by factor analysis, six components could be identified: factor 1:constitutional obesty and width size, factor 2: longistudinal body size, factor 3: shoulder form and size, factor 4: longistudinal upper body size, factor 5: under body size, factor 6: shoulder dropping. According to the Women's Wear Specifications(GB/T 1335.2-1997) by drop, body types of Chinese Adult female was classified into six types, it was Y, A, B, C and Z, D. In order, A type as standard somatotype(49.8%), B type(26.9%), Y type (18.8%), C type(2.9%). Y type had the average height and shoulder, bust girth. They were slimmer in overall terms. A type had a normal obesity and body size in height, shoulder, bust girth. They were average Chinese Women. B type had a smaller then A type. They were more obes and thick waist girth. C type had the highest obesity, the widest shoulder and bust girth, and thick waist girth. The characteristics of each body type following the body type structure factor are Y-type for slender type, A-type for standard type, B-type for slightly large type, and C-type for obese type. For each region, the Beijing area had in the order of A-type, Y-type, B-type and C-type, and the Shanghai area had in the order of A-type, B-type, Y-type and C-type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.549-561
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to survey and analyze the age classification of women customers as a target market and sizes on a label that were actually produced by each brand in Korean national brands ; they were classified into size for bodice and bottom, and compared with the distribution of national data of women's body measurement. They were analyzed and classified by brand groups of 'miss', 'missy', 'Mrs.'and 'madam', The results were ; 1) It was found that recent products for ready-made for women's clothes tend to be designed with target to the measured ages classified by the range of five or ten years. The main practice was that for 'miss'brand group the age range was of five years, and for 'missy'brand group, ten years. And for 'Mrs'and 'madam'brand groups, it was of 15 or 20 years. So that, it is necessary to design their clothes based on their features of body considering the intervals of age. 2) 'Mrs'and 'madam'groups were most remarkable for their distribution into a vast range of sizes for three control dimensions and waist girth size when compared to 'miss'and 'missy'groups. The distribution of brand size had no relation with that of body measurement, and in particular, none was produced for short height size between 145 and 150 ㎝. For tall height size between 175 and 180 ㎝, many brand sizes were distributed while body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement as a result that the larger the bust girth in such cases over 160 ㎝, the larger the size of hip girth. Even as for the height 155 and 160 ㎝ in which body measurement is concentrated, there were many problems because while sizes of 'large'bust girth and 'small'hip girth had a large distribution, their clothes were not produced.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.3
• /
• pp.87-104
• /
• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.511-528
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of pants and skirt by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA, t-test and Duncan＇s test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about waist girth prefer high waist pants. The subjects with longer waist wear high waist pants. The subjects with wider hips wear narrow down pants. The subjects with the thickest thighs prefer narrow pants but wear narrow down pants. The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about calf thickness prefer narrow pants but wear wide pants. The subjects with the highest satisfaction about leg length prefer and wear calf length pants. The subjects with the thinnest calves prefer and wear tight pants. 2) The subjects with the thickest thighs prefer straight skirt but wear narrow down skirt. The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about thigh thickness wear A-line skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.8
• /
• pp.1386-1397
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to classify and analyze the somatotype of early middle-aged women and to provide its total data for clothing construction, and to improve clothing culture. The subjects were 277 early middle-aged women between 35 and 44 years old. Data were collected through anthropometry and photometry and analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and discriminant analysis. The results were as follows; 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 10 factors were extracted through factor analysis and those factors comprised 86.13 percent of total variance. 2. Using factor scores, cluster analysis was carried out and the subject were classified into 4 cluster. Type 1 is tall, slim, and X type in front. Type 2 is standard height and weight, short upper body, and hip-protruded on the side. Type 3 is standard height, thin, H type in front, back and hip are clearly protruded, and lean-back type on the side. Type 4 is standard height, fat, and long upper body. 3. According to the stepwise discriminant analysis, the 8 important iems is classifying the somatotype of early middle-aged women are as follows : bust girth, back length hip breadth-waist breadth, back protruded point depth(back)-back waist depth(back), hip tangent tilt, hip depth(back) waist dapth(back), bust depth-waist depth, and cervical hight, The correct classification rate for these items is as exact as 83.20%.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2009.11a
• /
• pp.218-221
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find the differences of the real somatotype and the ideal somato type and fashion image sought in female collegians by somatotype. In addition, WHR, CWR, and body cathexis was analysed. ANOVA test, Duncan's multiple range test, and x2 test was used as statistical analyses. The results were as follows. 1. WHR of thin, regular, fat somatotype was 0.75, 0.76, and 0.83, respectively while CWR was 0.77 in thin, 0.81 in regular, 0.80 in fat somatotype. The respondents who considered themselves overweight recognized themselves fatter than real weight. 2. They were not satisfied with bust girth in thin, thigh part and calf part in regular people, and all part except foot length, hand length and sleeve length. 3. Clothing image sought by 45.5% female collegians was fashionable and raffine and that sought by 10.4% female collegians was elegant and graceful. 4. Among the body area, body parts that may have an effect on body image were body length in 13.1% of the respondents, waist girth in 10.7% of those thought, and hip girth in 10.0% of the respondents.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.41-57
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.