• Journal of Environmental Policy
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.41-73
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• 2015

The Korea Emissions Trading System that was launched in Jan. 2015 is expected to be a crucial policy measure to abate domestic $CO_2$ emission. For accomplishing its purpose, prior information on the price discovery process needs to be presented in order to facilitate the trading of spot allowances with different vintages. We develope a customized pricing method for Korean ETS using the concept of term structure and the cost of carry model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.307-318
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• 2008

Recently, the environmental problems have surfaced as serious social issues. More people become aware of the environments and seek for new kinds of lifestyle Lohas. The purpose of this study was to investigate the expressional characteristics of Lohas fashion design in ready-to-wear collection from 2000 till 2005. In the study, green design which was the base of Lohas fashion, was first examined, which was followed by an analysis of Lohas styles to understand the green design-oriented characteristics of Lohas fashion in the current fashion trends. The findings were as follows: First, the lifestyle of Lohas values 'environment-friendliness', 'sustainability', 'importance of health' and 'sensitivity'. Second, the distinguishing features of Lohas lifestyle categorize the Lohas fashion into five different looks: 'Lohas Natural Look', 'Lohas Vintage Look', 'Lohas Redesign Look', 'Lohas Multi look', and 'Lohas Wellness Look'. This study set out to provide useful results to be used as the basic data in studying design and related areas where they would develop fashion products for the consumers with the latest tastes as well as to promote environment protection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.984-1003
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• 2020

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.75-95
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the color characteristics and utilization of Amekaji fashion in the domestic casual market, with a focus on menswear. A total of 1,882 color data were extracted from 11 representative brands of Amekaji. This results of the study showed that PB, Bk, YR, and Y colors were highly utilized in the overall color, and dkg, g, ltg, and p tones were highly utilized. In particular, R color was highly utilized in the point color, as it was developed into six tones, including v, with high saturation. The analysis by the brand showed that the highest number of colors were extracted from 'Kapital', which is famous for its vintage-style patchwork and dyeing, and that 'PB' and 'Bk' were heavily utilized. By the item, PB colors were mainly utilized for denim, and shirts were diversified with 9 tones. W, a neutral color, was mainly used on clothing tops such as shirts, knits, and T-shirts. This study provides valuable insights into the color sensitivity of Amekaji fashion, which can be used as a useful resource for design development and product planning in the industry. As a future study, we suggest analysis of the utilization of Amekaji colors in the Korean men's casual market along with American and Japanese brands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.191-206
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• 2016

A designer representing an avant guard fashion, Martin Margiela introduces experimental collections that seek ideational and ideal values, breaking away from limits of popular universality or usefulness of fashion. This study seeks to interpret Martin Margiela's design characteristics from the perspective of ambiguity, and thereby examine theoretical basis of meaning interpretation of his ambiguous and innovative design. In poetic meaning ambiguity is verbal nuance which gives room for alternative reaction the same piece of language. By way of study methods, concepts and characteristics of ambiguity were examined based on William Empson's seven types of ambiguity, and characteristics of Martin Margiela's fashion design were analyzed from the perspective of ambiguity. In the study, expression of ambiguity in Martin Margiela's fashion design was categorized into ambiguity of forms, that of meanings, and that of existence. Ambiguity of forms could be found indeterminate form of clothes and flat clothes. Ambiguity of meaning refers to ambiguity arising from the possibility of the meaning that fashion design is going to convey diverse interpretation. Ambiguity of meaning could be found up-cycling vintage clothes, semi-couture, signs of time, unfitting size, and symbolic letter. Ambiguity of existence could be found inanimate dummy, face shrouded with a veil and expression of multiple identity. In Martin Margiela's fashion design ambiguity gives rise to joy of something fresh, amusement felt about what deviates from normality and the possibility of fashion design's endless creations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.770-780
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• 2007

Caports is a fusion style which consists of mix and match and various T.P.Os. The expressive features of Caports style have been strengthened by the combination of functional and decorative design. This study aims to divide the images into categories and to study the decorative features of each category. It is classified into five groups according to its images, Healthy & Sexy, Athletic, Romantic, Girlish, Vintage. The following study has assorted the pictures of Caports style into categories and presents decorative design features in each category. Analyzed materials have been collected from fashion magazines, catalogs, and fashion related Internet sites from 2002 to 2006. The dominant feature of caports was sensitive fashionableness as a day wear based on sportswear. This feature was determined by every factor such as materials, structure and details. In other words, the usage of jersey that could give functionalities and elasticity, structure that exhibit one's silhouette and the decorative designs of functional details make it possible to have this kind of peculiar style. Decorative designs shown in sports wear, casual wear and women's wear were all applied in Caports style. They showed a moderate and coherent style rather than one that was richly ornate or magnificent. So, in the mesa trend of "sportism", Caports style could easily fit into the 21st century's consumers' demands for fusion. And this study of decorating methods of each category of Caports style may provide useful data to help develop the products that consumers demand.

• The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.656-673
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• 2003

Statement of problem : Long-term exposure of dental porcelain to saliva during temporary cementation of a porcelain-fused to metal (PFM) restoration could affect mechanical strength of dental porcelain if the restoration is refired. Purpose : This work was performed to verify the effect of water on the mechanical strength in aged dental porcelain. Material and method : 63 specimens(Vintage Metalbond opaque and opal powder) were distributed to three experimental groups ; non-water immersed control, immersed and pedried, and immersed and non-predired groups. The changes in flexural strength and fracture toughness after specimen refiring related to Fourier Transform Infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. Results : 1. The FT-IR reflectances assigned to molecular bonds of $H_2O$ were noted as significantly different between the first-fired group and three refired groups and between two water-immersed groups and control group after refiring(p<0.05). They were also significantly different between predried group and non-predried group after refiring(p<0.05) 2. For opal specimens, FT-IR absorbances for hydrogen bond of $H_2O$ and silanols were significantly higher in non-predried group than in predreid group(p<0.05). 3 Predried opal group showed the highest mean flexural strength(p<0.05). Non-predried group indicated higher mean flexural strength than control group(p<0.05). 4. The mean fracture toughness for predired group was higher than non-predried group(p<0.05). 5. The difference of leucite crystal size is noted between control group and water-immersed, predried group in scanning electron microscopic study(${\times}10000$).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.78-94
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• 2013

In order to examine the influence of Anti-form in contemporary fashion focusing on 'signs of time', which illustrates the zeitgeist effects art and fashion, this study investigates both Anti-form movement in art of 1960s and 1970s and the fashion designs since 1970s when the signs of the influence of Anti-form in fashion began to appear. This was done by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Anti-form values the process and signs of time in that it visualizes the time and the process of making artworks. The emphasis on signs of time in Anti-form is observed in postmodernism fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process, visualization of signs of wearing, and continuation of wearing experience are all influences of the Anti-form in fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process exposes the techniques and the materials involved in garment construction such as linings, inside-out seams, interlinings, and unraveled hems, as well as the use of muslin, which is used in making garment prototypes. Signs of wearing is articulated in wrinkles caused by wearing, sings of alteration, reappeared designs of the past collections, reuse of vintage fabrics or garments, and the fabrics which assumes aged appearance. Continuous experience of a wearer is indicated in that the garment shape is not predetermined but changes continuously by the wearer's body shape and movement, which generates new and relative silhouettes continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.