• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.5
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.59-66
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.82-97
• /
• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.6
• /
• pp.48-61
• /
• 2010

Pearl gowns(Jeanju-eui)' of Princess Jekukdaejang which were imported from Yuan to Goryeo in 13'th century, but correct shape and detail were unkown. Princess Jekukdaejang was a queen of Goryeo and a daughter of Kublai Khan of early Yuan period, and pearls were the most precious jewel in Mongolia of medieval time. It is possible that the shapes of Jeanju-eui were nomadic mogolian women's costume or very new style yet in early Yuan just like sleeveless long vest. In the period of Yuan, pearls were beaded on the stiff thin fabric for summer or ornaments of ladies. Big pearls were made use of point spot of pattern or line of pattern, and small pearls were usually used to fill up devided parts or to bind outline. The shapes of deducted pearl gown are five kinds of women's deel and four kinds of long vest, and deducted parts for pearl decoration are golden band from shoulder to wrist and on the knees of gown, cloud shape collar, patches on the breast and on the back, slant collar, and patterns of fabric. Red color(the favorite color of Yuan ladies), artifical pearls, ramie, and golden brocade with the gloss of satin are selected as stuffs for sample of pearl gown, but 'reproducting old fabrics' was the most important problem in making correct pearl gowns. Suggested is a cooperation with fabric makers to develop alternate fabircs with patterns just like Yuan's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.4
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.399-411
• /
• 2016

This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Environmental Restoration Technology
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.39-60
• /
• 2018

National parks are designated for the purpose of maintenance, conservation and utilization of different habitats. Therefore, it is necessary to select habitats of a high value as a protected area in order to balance conservation and development. However, the existing national park boundary adjustment and new designation criteria only focused on the endangered species and protected area, without proper evaluation of the habitat value of actual species. Therefore, this study aims to quantitatively evaluate habitat function in terms of biodiversity and habitat value, so that it can be referred to for the designation and boundary adjustment of national parks. We assessed species diversity and habitat values for each of the habitat types, for mammals only, as they are able to choose preferred habitats. In order to evaluate biodiversity, we used Maxent to derive species richness map and used InVEST's Habitat quality model to evaluate habitat value. As a result of evaluation, species richness was high in the national park boundary area. Also, even if the same edge is adjacent to the development area depending on the land cover, the species richness is low. Compared with Wolaksan and Sobaeksan National Park, the species richness and habitat value of the northern area, which is connected with other forests, were higher than those of the southern area where roads were developed. Therefore, it is expected that the use of the result of this study for the national park boundary adjustment and management will enhance the function of the national park as a habitat.

• Journal of Korean Neurosurgical Society
• /
• v.50 no.1
• /
• pp.17-22
• /
• 2011

Objective : In the present study, authors retrospectively reviewed the clinical outcomes of halo-vest immobilization (HVI) versus surgical fixation in patients with odontoid fracture after either non-surgical treatment (HVI) or with surgical fixation. Methods : From April 1997 to December 2008, we treated a total of 60 patients with upper cervical spine injuries. This study included 31 (51.7%) patients (22 men, 9 women; mean age, 39.3 years) with types II and III odontoid process fractures. The average follow-up was 25.1 months. We reviewed digital radiographs and analyzed images according to type of injury and treatment outcomes, following conservative treatment with HVI and surgical management with screw fixation. Results : There were a total of 31 cases of types II and III odontoid process fractures (21 odontoid type II fractures, 10 type III fractures). Fifteen patients underwent HVI (10 type II fractures, 5 type III fractures). Nine (60%) out of 15 patients who underwent HVI experienced successful healing of odontoid fractures. The mean period for bone healing was 20.2 weeks. Sixteen patients underwent surgery including anterior screw fixation (6 cases), posterior C1-2 screw fixation (8), and transarticular screw fixation (2) for healing the odontoid fractures (11 type II fractures, 5 type III fractures). Fifteen (93.8%) out of 16 patients who underwent surgery achieved healing of cervical fractures. The average bone healing time was 17.6 weeks. Conclusion : The overall healing rate was 60% after HVI and 93.8% with surgical management. Patients treated with surgery showed a higher fusion rate and shorter bony healing time than patients who received HVI. However, prospective studies are needed in the future to define better optimal treatment and cost-effective perspective for the treatment of odontoid fractures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.3
• /
• pp.420-432
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to survey the present women's golf windbreaker market to develop the trendy product with supplementing design and functionality by grasping the inconvenient part through the result of the questionnaire. According to the questionnaire, 38.1% said that the armhole is the most inconvenient part by tightfitting. Therefore, a mobility of wearer was enhanced by giving shirring detail to the armhole for flexibility through inserting the elastic band with a regular interval around armhole in the design1. The swing movement was allowed to be convenient by attaching knit to the side panel. And, the sleeves were designed in the detachable form so those are allowed to be produced in two kinds such as long sleeves and short sleeves. In the design2, a zipper was inserted from the neckline to the armhole so it is designed a detachable bolero. Furthermore, it was designed to be possible to wear two different way as a jumper style and a vest style. Given wearing a vest, the sleeve part was patched knit, thereby having enhanced activity. The design1 and the design2 evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment. Assessment group consists of 5 subject groups and 10 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and movement adaptability. In the external appearance evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than design2. In the movement adaptability evaluation, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the wrist area. In the group of professionals, the design1 obtained the better evaluation than the design2 for all of the items except the bottom area.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
• /
• v.29 no.1
• /
• pp.32-40
• /
• 2001

The purpose of designing Haebaragi park, legally designated as children park, is to make a place for children including residents performing outdoor recreation, various social interactions, and cultural activities. Design concept for space plan have twofold; the one is a positive and creative playing space and facilities for children, escaped from a monotonous playground, and the other is a cultural and social space for neighboring communities. The site having the area of 1,316.7 square meters, located in Nowon-Dong, Buk-Gu, Daegu metropolitan City, is just like a vest pocket park. The adjacent area had been developed a slum area with mixed ad visually conflicting land use patterns and low income groups. The children and residents living in the area do not have any public space suitable for playing and/or rest. After analyzing such locational characteristic as accessibility, land use of the communities, and potentials for park development, and such design concept as arrangement of facilities, efficient use of site, and functional allocation of park space, We have mad a plan for composition of spaces for various activities, provision of facilities based on estimation of user-demand and activities, and planting. In the design process, we have tried to harmonize functional spaces with facilities, and to organize all the functions as a whole. To improve urbanity and aesthetic shape of park design, we have introduced a central plaza, design of a pave floor, a torrent, large trees for shade, colonnades and so on. From this design project, we can develop the site as a children park for increasing creativities and various playing opportunities, and as a resident space for rest, cultural activities. In the future, it is required that many attempt to design and develop urban small space as a park for children and residents.