Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.3
no.1
/
pp.5-14
/
2001
The study was about on the colorfastness of the natural vegetable dye. Impatient Balsamina was chosen as a speciesof the natural vegetable dye. It has a long history for Korean Women‘s grooming on the nail to be reddened, Actually those were very easy to gather and easy to extract the colors from the leaves and the flowers, Also Impatient Balsamina were abundant near our environment. So this was a cue as a natural dye for the wool fabric, This study was designed to testify the possibility of the Impatient Balsamina as a natural vegetable. First, 2 kinds of extracts from the Impatient Balsamina were prepared. Second, 2 kinds of mordants and 3 kinds of dyeing process were used. And the dyed wool fabric were evaluated the color index using Chroma Meter, the result was recorded as L$^*$, a$^*$, b$^*$ value(65.86, 16.40, 36.80). The effect of the mordants was more effective in Cr mordant than Al mordant in the color fastness and the color affinity. The very interesting results were in the colorfastness to the drycleaning, that was graded 4 to 5, but the colorfastness to light was low, graded 2. Impatient Balsamina was veryfied, it could be a natural vegetable dye for the wool fabric.
The trends of patents related to natural dyeing were examined in order to guide the development of natural dyeing into a high value-added technology. Total 181 patents data provided from KISTI were analyzed and following results were drawn. Korea had the overwhelming number of patents related to natural dyeing over Japan or United States of America from 1970 to 2007. In case of domestic, the number of patent applications were heavily focused on the metropolitan area in 1990's, but started to increase in the Honam region and Youngnam region in the first half of the year 2000 which indicated that the researches and the developments of natural dyeing were very active. In the case of foreign countries, most of their patent applications comes from the corporation such as a company while the number of patents applications from individuals overwhelms that of corporation in South Korea. Also, more of individuals' patent applications were denied than corporations' patents applications. The vegetable dye, a type of dyestuff which is a research subject for patent application, had the most research done above all other dyestuff.
Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.
With the market of food products, the use of food additives is on the increase. The dye as food additives, can be used for some foods which are difficult to preserve their own colors. It can be also classified as tar dye, vegetable dye and mineral dye. Because tar dye has dense toxicity, only 15 articles among them are legally allowed to be used. Among the allowed articles, the azo compound amaranth, tartrazine, sunset yellow, and allura red, were used in determining and comparing rat hepatic azo reductase activity and we observed the flavin's effects as follows: 1. Investigation with amaranth as substrate gave an apparent Km of $645\;\mu\textrm{M}$ and Vmax of 50 n mol/min/mg protein. 2. On investigation using a fixed amaranth concentration over a range of flavin concentration, FAD significantly increased the activity of the azo reductase compared with only minor increases in reaction mediated by the NADPH-generating system alone. 3. On investigation with amaranth, tartrazine, sunset yellow allura red as electron acceptor in the absence or presence of 300 mM-FAD, sunset yellow was reduced at a rat similar to amaranth, tartrazine was reduced at a slower rate and allura red was reduced a little more rapidly.
This study was carried out to identify Hue, Value and Chroma (H, V/C) of silk fabric dyed with several kinds of Vegetable Dyes according to Munsell renotation system and to disclose the colour fastness of dyed silk fabric against washing and light. The Hue of dyed silk fabric which was in colour of yellow or yellow red, was differentially altered by kinds of Vegetable Dyes, the Value and Chroma (V/C) of that was uniformally lowered by treatments of mordants after dyeing. The Colour fastness to washing and light of dyed silk fabric was improved by mordanting with coppor sulfate or ferrous sulfate, as compared with unmordanting.
We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.
Colored compounds adsorption from the textile dyeing effluents on activated carbons produced from various indigenous vegetable sources by zinc chloride activation is studied. The most important parameters in chemical activation were found to be the chemical ratio of $ZnCl_2$ to feed (3:1), carbonization temperature (460-470 $^{\circ}C$) and time of activation (75 min). The absorbance at 511 nm (red effluent) and 615 nm (blue effluent) are used for estimation of color. It is established that at optimum temperature ($50^{\circ}C$), time of contact (30-40 min) and adsorbent loading (2 g/L), activated carbons developed from rain tree (Samanea saman) saw dust and blackberry (Randia formosa) tree saw dust showed great capability to remove color materials from the effluents. It is observed that adsorption of reactive dyes by all types of activated carbons is more than that of disperse dyes. It is explained that because of its acidic nature the activated carbon can adsorb better reactive dye particles containing large number of nitrogen sites and $-SO_3Na$ group in their structure. The use of activated carbons from the indigenous biomass would be economical, because saw dusts are readily available waste worldwide.
Hair coloring before the 1980s was mostly to hide white hair by dying in black. With the introduction of color TV, however, the size of the coloring market has been expanding. Nowadays, artificial synthetic dyes are widely used, which, though advantageous in many points, have problems such as harmful effects on the human body, carcinogenesis, environmental contamination and damage on hair. On the contrary, natural vegetables obtained from Curcuma Longa L., A. catechu, polygonum indigo, henna, etc. are little harmful to hair or the skin of the head and cause few environmental problems. In addition, as they are natural materials collected from nature, they are considered positively by consumers. Thus the present study started from the necessity of research on the convenient use of environment?friendly and side-effect-free natural dyes, coloring technology for reproducing original color, the improvement of adhesion rate, etc. From the present research were obtained yellow color from Curcuma Longa L., brown from A. catechu, blue from polygonum indigo and orange from henna. It is expected that, based on materials from previous researches, there may be more researches on the use of natural dyes as hair colors.
Scientific investigation of cultural heritage can provide important information to understand the context of the object. To know the characteristics of the material is also an essential part of objects management and conservation. However, the identification and characterization of organic dyes used in archaeological and historical textiles are often limited by the restrictions in sampling. To cope with the difficulties, applications of high-performance techniques of surface analysis, such as Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectra (TOF-SIMS) could be considered as a non or micro-destructive option. This study aims to examine the applicability of TOF-SIMS analysis to the detection of organic dyes from historical textiles. A group of silk fabrics dyed with vegetable dyes were artificially photo-aged to different degrees and analyzed with TOF-SIMS. Molecular and fragment ions from indigo were successfully detected from the aged samples; however, only some fragment ions were observed from gardenia and safflower dyed fabrics. Further studies with actual historical samples with extended examination scope would be necessary to assess the validity of this technique.
As the use of environmentally friendly and non-disease natural pigments grows, various methods for extracting natural pigments have been studied. The natural color was extracted from parsley, a vegetable ingredient containing natural dyes. Target color codes of green series of natural dyes extracted as variables #50932C (L = 55.0, a = -40.0, b = 46.0) were set with the pH and temperature of extracted natural color coordinates (of the extracted), and the quantitative intensities of natural dyes were analyzed. During the colorimetric analysis predicted by the reaction surface analysis method, a color coordinate analysis was conducted under the optimal conditions of pH 8.0 and extraction temperature of $60.9^{\circ}C$. Under these conditions, predicted figures of L, a, and b were 55.0, -36.3, and 36.8, respectively, while actual experimental ones confirmed were 69.0, -35.9, and 31.4, respectively. In these results, the theory accuracy and actual error rate were confirmed to be 73.0 and 13.8%, respectively. The theoretical optimization condition of the color difference (${\Delta}E$) was at the pH of 9.2 and extraction temperature of $55.2^{\circ}C$. Under these conditions the predicted ${\Delta}E$ figure was 12.4 while the experimental one was 13.0. The difference in color analysis showed 97.5% of the theoretical accuracy and 4.5% of the actual error rate. However, the combination of color coordinates did not represent a desired target color, but rather close to the targeted color by means of an arithmetic mean. Therefore, it can be said that when the reaction surface analysis method was applied to the natural dye extraction process, the use of color coordinates as a response value can be a better method for optimizing the dye extraction process.
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