• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.152-170
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• 2023

Although ugliness had long been considered a negative form of beauty, it has become an independent aesthetic category. However, most previous art studies have focused on Rosenkranz's theory, making its application to contemporary fashion analysis challenging. Therefore, it is necessary to redefine ugliness. This study highlighted four modern ugliness categories from a modern perspective following the examination of the historical considerations of the ugliness concept, namely ugliness as a violation of taboo, ugliness as an unpleasant emotion, ugliness as a vulgar taste, and ugliness as an ethical flaw. From this perspective, SHOWstudios for fashion films were analyzed in the present study. The results of our analysis showed that ugliness in the film was related to socially sensitive subjects and stimulating images. Whereas costumes in the film were used as a tool to convey the subject and to enhance the visual effect of the image. In addition, clothing was identified as a core subject element of the video, particularly when considering ugliness as an ethical defect. This study provides further insights into contemporary fashion analysis, expanding the ugliness perspective, which had been limited to the specific perspectives of scholars.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.86-100
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• 2005

This paper has examined how ugliness has aesthetically been portrayed in modern make-up. In the past, ugliness was regarded as an antonym of beauty, but it recently plays a role on part of beauty, as independent portion of art. It was Schegel who initially maintained the view. According to his theory, ugliness represents interesting things including suffering reality, shock, attention, humor, surprises brought by distort and deformation. Hegel had a different view on it. As for him, he had the notion that ugliness was the opposite to beauty and that it had to be dependent in art, he argued that art was subordinate to philosophy, and that it was just nostalgia for the past, not representing reality, therefore, it could not be a foothold in contemporary art. In this context, some images of ugliness can be classified accordingly to Schegel's view deteste, decadence and androgynous can be fallen into a category describing reality; fetish, kitsch and grotesque can be included in interesting things. There is no fine line between the two. There are sometimes things they have in common. They mutually draw attentions by distancing themselves from general images of beauty, or making many changes and distorts in its part, using unique materials, unprecedented attempts of colors which result in creative and shocking images. Attempts made in ugly images in modern art are widening its concept to depicting reality on the body of human beings, also creating its new definition, playing a major role in independent part of modern art, not in the past way like wearing make-up on the face to make it look better.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.51-51
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of, the ugliness images expressed in Modern Make-up from 1995 to 2003, especially focusing on color, and to enlarge the possibility of expressions through formative elements such as shape·texture·details and to anticipate the prospect of the Make-up in the future. The results can be summarized as follows. First, Ugliness is the most negative aesthetic value which is lack of beauty, and ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty with ugliness. Second, the images of ugliness have been expressed in paintings and fashion. The 20 century paintings, representing the ugly shape are extremely exaggerated with yellow, red, black, blue, white, green. The shape have been distorted, deformed, destroyed. And Pluralism and De-constructivism with its traits of indeterminacy have become the background of ugliness images in Fashion.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.106-120
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• 2006

Using aesthetics of Rosencranz as the basis, this study contains the peculiarities of 'ugliness' and the obscured conceptual meaning of 'avant-garde', 'grotesque', and 'decadence' that are being utilized under ambiguous significance are defined through modern fashion and fashion of online game characters. Forms of 'ugliness' expressed in modern fashion and in games characters display distortion of form through incongruity, unbalance, disproportion and disharmony, and with this lack of form and expressional imprecision, both contain the elements of comical characteristics of vulgarity and repugnance. The difference in 'ugliness' between modern fashion and game character fashion is, the significance of 'ugliness' being expressed in modern fashion challenges new concepts by refusing tradition and recovering the human nature that has become turbid. On the other hand, 'ugliness' in game character fashion complements the story of the game that uses legends, fantasies or novels as its basis. Opposed to the significance of recovering human nature that is displayed in modern fashion, in order to terminate the opposing game character, the fashion of game characters exaggerates the form of modern fashion with added brutality. In addition, with the advantage of virtual reality that allows a more flexible expression than in the real word, images created are more sensational and excessive use of grotesque images are being expressed.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2004

Since around 1990. some experimental and shocking ugliness images have been expressed in Fashion and Make-up as well as Fine arts. The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of ugliness images expressed in Modern Make-up from 1995 to 2003, especially focusing on color, and to enlarge the expressions through formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of Make-up in the future. Ugliness is the most negative aesthetic value which is lack of beauty. The 20 century art trends representing the ugly shape have been distorted or deformed or destroyed and extremely exaggerated with yellow, red, black, blue, white, green. The image and color of ugliness can be summarized as historical, avant-garde, decadence, de-constructive, humorous, futuristic trend and Most of colors are the achromatic ones like black, white, dark gray and red. blue, dark brown and so on. These colors cause some negative attributes such as fear. anger, death, devil, Pain, bad, ill omen, sorrow, despair and the like. At the turning Point in 21C are to be extended the range of color according to the experimental attempts such as informal, collage, graphic and the forth. Lastly, The characteristics of ugliness images expressed in the color of Modern Make-up have been analyzed into formlessness and inaccuracy and deformation by Karl Rosenkranz＇s theory.

• 트랜스-
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• 제8권
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• pp.29-53
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• 2020

본 논문은 데이비드 린치 감독의 첫 작품 <이레이저 헤드>에 나타난 추(醜)의 미에 관한 연구를 목적으로 한다. 먼저 배경 연구로, 미의 역사에서 '추'가 등장한 역사를 고찰하고, 미학적인 관점에서 '추'가 어떤 의미를 지니는지 논의한다. 이어서 '추'에 관하여 심도 있는 논의를 전개한 미학자 로젠크란츠의 '추'의 미학 이론을 살펴보고, 이와 유사하거나 다른 측면의 의견들에 대해서도 짚어볼 것이다. 끝으로 현대 영화에서 추의 미가 적용되는 미적 양상을 논증하기 위해 데이비드 린치의 영화 '이레이저 헤드'의 특정 사운드를 구체적으로 분석하고 이미지와의 관계를 고찰한다. 본고는 이상의 논의를 통하여 영화라는 분야에서 미적 범주로서 '추'가 지니는 미학적 의미를 새롭게 조명하고자 한다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.117-125
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• 2003

Aesthetics of ugliness enlarged aesthetic field and brought back the repressed, estranged things. Hair style is not an exception. So I intended to examine the contemporary(1995-2002) women's hair styles on the basis of Rosenkranz' concept of ugliness. The results are as follows: First, extrinsic aspect contains formlessness and disfiguration. Among characteristics of formlessness, discord means appearing on a stage with a hair style derailed from our common sense or an incomplete hair style. Asymmetry means hair decoration or hair dressing which violates the principles of design. Disharmony means excessiveness beyond the concept of accent. Disfiguration has characteristics of vulgarity, disgust and caricature, and means cruelty, grimness or ridiculousness instead of pleasing beauty. Second, intrinsic aspect has incorrectness. As minority ethnic groups, estranged classes, children and women which in the previous field of absolute aesthetics were never considered as beauty appeared as subject matters of hair styles, the repressed things returned and a new genre was created thereby enlarging true aesthetic field. Like this, 1 cloud confirm that aesthetics of ugliness organized today's characteristic, peculiar hair styles, and enlarged aesthetic field.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1208-1218
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to examine the expressional characteristics and effects of Diabolism image that appeared in fashion illustration. The concept of evil from ancient times is arranged with more basic pain, unhappiness, breakdown, fear, ignorance, sadness, imperfection, death, disease, and ugliness than it can be understandable in modern society. However, as the concept of evil is included in sacred ground of art and is begun to understand by the ugliness of broad sense, the evil and ugliness were recognized as subordinate concepts which fertilizing beauty. Also, image characteristics of Diabolism in pop culture are taking charge roles that remove visual discordance to decadent and mysterious beauty and trying to find new beauty by presentation of bad-tasted style. The aesthetic and expressional characteristics of Diabolism in modem visual media have something in common which is classified into five shapes: Negative image, Symbolic line and color, Transformation, Devilish shape, and Fantastic image. The Diabolism expressions in fashion illustration since 1980 show the possibility of image expression as a new technical field because they differ from existing expression methods and viewpoints of beauty. Therefore, the practical use of devilish image to express excessive aesthetic sense can expand the extent of image expression.