• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2003

In this study on the Persiandress called Persiandress or Mediandress, its names, styles, and structures that are still subject to a great deal of controversy were investigated. In addition, the reason why the Persiandress was wrongly named as Kandys by the early researchers was also examined. The documents of reliefs on the Apadanastairs in Persepolis and the European papers concerning this themes were subject of this analysis. Such investigation and examination results are summarized as follows. There is still no agreed name describing the Persiandress, which is called "Persiandress" or "Mediandress". Further, there is no definite conclusion on whether the Persiandress was made in one piece or two pieces. The first person who insisted that the Persiandress was made in one piece is a German archaeologist, Ernst Herzfeld. He said that the Persiandress was made in one long tetragonal piece, had a hole in the middle for head, and had lots of pleats when it was tied with a belt. On the contrary, researchers who insisted that the Persiandress was made in two pieces stressed the sleeve pleats in four folds, which is one of the representative characteristics, and said that such four-fold sleeve pleats would not be formed when the Persiandress was made in one piece and worn by a belt. Consequently, they have conducted studies according to their insistence and the resultant pattern. Kandys, the Median's typical dress, is a coat worn over the jacket and trousers. Although it had sleeves, the Median did not use them. Indeed, Kandys was used as a kind of cloak. However, the wrong term, Kandys is still used in Korea. So, it is necessary to correct use of such wrong term.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.60-74
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• 2015

It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.854-864
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• 1997

This study was initiated to develop a uniform design suitable for child inpatients. The experimental hospital inpatient uniform design was developed based on the results of the prior studies. The panel was composed of 5 experienced nurses and 5 clothing specialists. They evaluated the function of the experimental inpatient uniforms developed in this study. The experimental hospital gown design was reformed based on the panel's evaluation.1'hen the child inpatients performed the wear test for the reformed experimental hospital gown. The results of the study are as follows; 1. The child inpatient hospital gown design of the most hospitals were similar to the adult patient's uniform : the V-neckline shirts with full length set-in sleeves. The bottom was full length pull-on pants. The fabric was white cotton with blue hospital logo and stripe print in most cases. 2. The panel's specialty affected the evaluation of the uniform design. The nurses concerned about the durability after washing and ease for medical treatment. The clothing specialists cared about the features related to the clothing construction and ease for physical movement of body. 3. The most preferred hospital inpatient uniform design by the panels was the shirts or one- piece gown with three-quarter length sleeve and overarm seam opening. 4. The researchers developed one-piece dress gown for the children under two years old. Three different size pajamas were developed for children 2∼5 years old,5∼8 years and 8∼12 years old.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.45-59
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to identify fashion trend in the late 1990's by using content analysis of the design elements of wedding dresses in wedding magazine photographs. The data were selected among the wedding dress photographs in 1997 issues of two wedding's magazines, 'My wedding'and 'She's Bride'. The identified 455 photographs were classified into 15 major-categories of silhouettes, necklines, sleeves, materials, and trimmings, etc. 15 major-categories were consisted of 232 sub-categories. In the late 1990's, fashion trends of wedding dresses have mixed mainly dome silhouettes(56.0%), bell silhouettes, and tubular silhouettes. One-piece forms(90.8%) were familar more than two-piece forms. Necklines were used mainly such as square neckline(14.0%), high necklines(13.0) blended with other off-shoulder necklines, heart-shape necklines, and sweet-heart necklines, etc. Also camisole and strapless were added in neckline. Long-tight sleeves dominated at the late 1990's because that were used most (21.1%) among 22 sleeves sub-categories. And short sleeve, ruffled below-elbow length sleeves, and french sleeves were also used with the other sleeves. Long length in skirts(98.4%) were common but mini length were used rarely. Satin, lace, and solid cloth were the main materials in wedding dresses, however, spandex and velvet were also used. Various trimmings such as flowers(corsages), ribbons blended with embroidery, small flowers, buttons, frills, strings, and fur trimming are used. Especially, flowers used most(11.8%) among 61 trimmings sub-categories. But simplicity was shown in trimmings because there were dresses not having any decorations(14.3%). The wedding dress of the late 1990's has become more varied in design due to the reflection of changes in society and fashion of everyday garments while the traditional design of the wedding dress has been preserved.

• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.108-119
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• 2005

The objective of the study is was investigate the condition of the battle dress uniform worn by male members of the Korean Police Special Weapons Attack Team(KP-SWAT), identify problems, and provide basic raw materials for developing improved design of BDU. For this purpose, the researcher conducted a questionnaire survey on 92 male members of SWAT (Special Weapon Attack Team) units in Seoul using a questionnaire developed through observation and interview. Also, the body sizes of male SWAT members were measured. According to the results of body size measurements, male SWAT members generally require uniforms with a target bust girth, armhole, biceps circumference, thigh and calf circumference, longer jacket length, sleeve length, and trouser length to the knee. According to the results of the questionnaire survey, they reported dissatisfaction with the fit. In addition, they said that the Pockets are positioned too low for convenient use. Many subjects reported that their trousers were too short because of the rubber rings at the bottom of the legs. In addition, many subjects requested the alteration of the inconveniences caused by the designs finished with velcro on the bottom collar of the upper uniform, the marks and ensigns of the upper uniform, the bottom of the upper and lower uniform, and several pockets. Furthermore, there were many complaints concerning how they had to wear their uniform. The most frequently worn out and the body parts most often injured in field training and operations, they were reported, on the upper uniform, as the elbow, collar, neck, armpit, shoulder, and sleeve hem in that order, and on the lower uniform, the knee, interior calf, waist (belt rings), buttocks (rear pockets), and the bottom of the trousers (ankle) in that order As for questions concerning priorities in the improvements of the operational uniform and preferred design, the subjects recommended improvement in safety (protectiveness), workability (motional flexibility), design (shape), fit (size), comfort, ease in terms of putting on and taking off, etc., and the majority preferred two-piece designs ($67.4\%$), followed by one-piece ($30.4\%$), or both ($2.2\%$).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.742-752
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is the image of clothing according to the change of the dots' size was analyzed and its influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing was investigated. White waterdrop patterns were designed on the 12 kinds of black texture using Photoshop and CAD program in regular arrangement of diamond figure, composed of white waterdrop(0.5cm, 1.0cm, 1.5cm and 2cm in diameter) and interval(diameter : interval-1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 4). Applying above specification, the photograph stimulus of 12 kinds of X-line one-piece dress with wide square neckline and without sleeve or detailed ornament was presented on a screen in the same size as when putting it on. The image of polka dots clothes was investigated by questionnaire survey. The object of the study was 320 females aged between 16 and 29. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, $Scheff\acute{e}$ verification and two-way ANOVA using SPSS 10.0 were carried out for data analysis. Followings are the results: 1) The image of polka dots clothing consists of 4 factors as aesthetics, brevity, dynamism and lightweight. 2) The size of the dot has a great influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing. 3) The evaluations of the image of polka dots clothing were different depending on the age and physical image, the personal characteristics of the object of investigation.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.103-120
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• 1999

The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.