• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.323-335
• /
• 1996

The objective of this treatise is to study the effect which rock'n'roll had on fashion through the fashion of rock'n'roll stars and contemporary youngsters. The United states of America in the 1950's when rock'n'roll came into existence was an opulent and luxurious period. People's spare time increased and teenagers who grew up in oppulence after World War II emlerged. It was rock'n'roll that comprised the background of their culture. Rock'n'roll music, which was in the mixed form of Negro's rhythm and blues, and country -and-western of Southern hillbilly Rock'n'roll was expressed as a 'culture', characterized by both the luxurious and oppulent culture and the'anti-establishment' defying it. This cultural characteristic emerged as at once the conservative fashion following the contemporary fashion and the anti-establishment fashion in the rock'n'roll fashion. Therefore, the rock'n'roll fashion influenced by popular music became one momentum of including popular music among factors affecting the twentieth-century modern fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.15-32
• /
• 2012

From the beginning of the twentieth century, 'Modernism' impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso's innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel's fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly decorative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has examined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer's environment from different perspectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel's visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.505-516
• /
• 2008

Image which appears in fashion illustration on the late twentieth century is not the representative image as an equivalence to the real fashion styles but the virtual image which bears no relation to any reality. The purpose of this study is review the concept of virtuality and analyze in which way virtual image is expressed in fashion illustrations on the background of Jean Baudrillard's simulacre theory. In post-modem paintings the expression methods of image-virtualization were image mixing through photo-image appropriation, image overlapping, and the icons inserted unreasonably, the focus-out effect through scrubbing and the over-painting on the photograph. Image-virtualization in fashion illustration was expressed through image mixing and expression of image uncertainty. Image mixing was made by photo-image appropriation, image overlapping, connection of heterogeneous images and using interface image, and uncertain image was expressed through the expression of visual ambiguity and virtual movement.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.63-75
• /
• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.150-169
• /
• 2012

Contemporary fashion broadens its image in relation with architecture and incorporates architecture in its creative field. The aim of this research is to investigate the characteristics of 'architecture for fashion' in a social context and to verify the collaborative characteristics of post-1990s fashion and architecture. This paper describes architecture as a means of expressing contemporary style and identifies social consequences resulting from this. While high fashion in the early to mid-twentieth century followed a similar trend evident in architecture to directly apply architectural elements into the creativity of the works, high fashion from 1990 extended its creative field by using architecture to symbolically represent its image and style. In line with the possibility for fashion shows to be considered as a performance art, the potential of collaboration between architecture and fashion as an installation with audience participation is discussed. Architecture, for fashion, provides significant grounds for fashion to be recognized as a parallel, independent sphere of art. Contemporary fashion, either by itself or through collaboration with architecture, comprehends space in its zone of creation. The collaborative characteristics of post-1990s fashion and architecture is verified through case studies of the three fashion houses, 'Armani Group', 'PRADA' and 'Comme des Garςcons.'

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.2
• /
• pp.149-167
• /
• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.327-338
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.97-111
• /
• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.111-126
• /
• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.5
• /
• pp.44-58
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this research is to contemplate chronological changes of Korean actress facial image and fashion from 1960s to 1990s and to identify Korean women's ideal beauty reflected through the times. Adjectives describing representative actresses of each studied decade were collected from major newspapers and magazines. Korean women's ideal beauty was divided into 4 sub-types such as youthful, pure, sophisticate, and sexy images. As a result of analyzing actress facial image and fashion, youthful and pure beauties were found consistently over the studied periods. Representative characteristics of sophisticate and sexy beauties have been changed over the studied periods which were influenced by socio-cultural environment factors. The result of this research can provide meaningful sources for historical drama, celebrity marketing strategy planning, and personal image consulting.