• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.73-87
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• 2004

In the designing stage, the HANBOK CHIMA is created using a flat pattern with linear shapes. However, when worn, the skirt creates a fluid and organic silhouette. According to the wearing method(wrapping), HANBOK CHIMA can create various shapes and movements. In comparison to the general skirt, It is more effective in revealing the wearer's sense of beauty. The method of wrapping the skirt from the rear is a suitable way of wearing the garment in accord with the Korean ON-DOL(온돌) culture and it creates mystique eroticism. We can devide the silhouettes according to six different period of time. The silhouette of HANBOK CHIMA is affected by the following elements: length, width, pleats, textures and the usage of underwear. [1. Koguryo (5C∼6C) - The first Tent silhouette. 2. The South Dynasty Silla (7C∼8C) - The second Tent silhouette. 3. Kyoryo dynasty (l4C) - Cylinder silhouette. 4. The first Chosun dynasty (late 14C∼17C) - Bell silhouette and Cylinder silhouette. 5. The second Chosun dynasty (mid 18C∼mid 19C) - Bell silhouette and Barrel silhouette. 6. The third Chosun dynasty (late 19C∼the beginning of 20C) - Tent, Cylinder and Bell silhouette.]

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1418-1426
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• 2008

This study aims to develop the functional pants for the hospitalized bed-ridden patient. The procedure of this study consisted of three parts. First, the interview survey of nursing care givers was conducted to inquire into the conditions of bed-ridden patients' clothing. Second, the bed-ridden patients' pants design and sample making were accompanied. Then, the wearing tests and design development were completed. The results are as follows; The conditions of bed-ridden patients' clothing were the convenience of clothing change, the partial opening for diaper change and medical treatment and the ventilation for bedsore prevention. The design development of the bed ridden patients' pants was accomplished which had the side seams with two way opening zippers, the wraparound pattern of abdomen and the opening under crotch applied the advantage of korean traditional underwear sokkot. The samples' wearing tests were performed three times and those subjects were the hospitalized bed-ridden patients. Consequently, we suggested the appropriate hospitalized patients' pants for bed-ridden patient.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.15-26
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• 2010

Due to the globalization across various industries and cultural trade among many countries, oriental concepts have been attracting world’s attentions. In fashion industry, one's traditional culture is often developed as fashion theme for designers' creation and became strong strategies to stand out among competitors. Because of the increase of preferences for oriental images, opportunities abound to introduce traditional fashion goods and expand culture based business to global fashion markets. However, global fashion brands that include Korean traditional culture are yet to be developed. In order to develop a global fashion brand with Korean taste, it is very important for native citizen to accept their own culture in domestic apparel market prior to expansion into foreign market. Loungewear is evaluated to be appropriate for adopting Korean traditional details into clothing since this wardrobe category embraces various purposes which will easily lead to natural adaptation and wide spread use. Also, this market is seeing an increased demand for multipurpose wardrobes and fashionable underwear (Park et al. 2009). Despite rapid growth in the loungewear market, specific studies of loungewear is rare; and among research on developing modernized-traditional clothing, fashion items and brands do not always include the loungewear category. Therefore, this study investigated the Korean loungewear market and studied consumer evaluation toward loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Relationship among antecedents of purchase intention for Korean traditional fashion design elements were analyzed and compared between lifestyle groups for consumer targeting purposes. Product quality, retail service quality, perceived value, and preference on loungewear with Korean traditional design elements were chosen as antecedents of purchase intention and a structural equation model was designed to examine their relationship as well as their influence on purchase intention. Product quality and retail service quality among marketing mixes were employed as factors affecting preference and perceived value of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Also effects of preference and perceived value on purchase intention were examined through the same model. A total of 357 self-administered questionnaires were completed by female consumers via web survey system. A questionnaire was developed to measure samples' lifestyle, product and retail service quality as purchasing criteria, perceived value, preference and purchase intention of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Also, loungewear purchasing and usage behavior were asked as well in order to examine Korean loungewear market status. Data was analyzed through descriptive analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and structural equation model was tested via AMOS 7.0. As for the result of Korean loungewear market status investigation, loungewear was purchased by most of the consumers in our sample. Loungewear is currently recognized as clothes that are worn at home and consumers are showing comparably low involvement toward loungewear. Most of consumers in this study purchase loungewear only two to three times a year and they spend less than US$10. A total of 12 items and four factors of loungewear consumer lifestyle were found: traditional value oriented lifestyle, brand-affected lifestyle, pursuit of leisure lifestyle, and health oriented lifestyle. Drawing on lifestyle factors, loungewear consumers were classified into two groups; Well-being and Conservative. Relationships among constructs of purchasing behavior related to loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements were estimated. Preference and perceived value of loungewear were affected by both product quality and retail service quality. This study proved that high qualities in product and retail service develop positive preference toward loungewear. Perceived value and preference of loungewear positively influenced purchase intention. The results indicated that high preference and perceived value of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements strengthen purchase intention and proved importance of developing preference and elevate perceived value in order to make sales. In a model comparison between two lifestyle groups: Well-being and Conservative lifestyle groups, results showed that product quality and retail service quality had positive influences on both preference and perceived value in case of Well-being group. However, for Conservative group, only retail service quality had a positive effect on preference and its influence to purchase intention. Since Well-being group showed more significant influence on purchase intention, loungewear brands with Korean traditional fashion design elements may want to focus on characteristics of Well-being group. However, Conservative group's relationship between preference and purchase intention of loungewear with Korean traditional fashion design elements was stronger, so that loungewear brands with Korean traditional fashion design elements should focus on creating conservative consumers' positive preference toward loungewear. The results offered information on Korean loungewear consumers' lifestyle and provided useful information for fashion brands that are planning to enter Korean loungewear market, particularly targeting female consumers similar to the sample of the present study. This study offers strategic and marketing insight for loungewear brands and also for fashion brands that are planning to create highly value-added fashion brands with Korean traditional fashion design elements. Considering different types of lifestyle groups that are associated with loungewear or traditional fashion goods, brand managers and marketers can use the results of this paper as a reference to positioning, targeting and marketing strategy buildings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.4 no.1_2
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• pp.11-18
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• 1980

This study attempts to discern the purchasing pattern of urban husbands' clothing in Korea. Studies on this subject in other cultures show that wives play lesser role in purchasing activities of their husbands' clothing in the industrial societies rather than in the pre-industrial ones. It would be interesting to know the way selecting and buying husbands' clothing in urban Korea. Specifically questions to be answered include: Who makes the decision in selecting in kinds of husbands' clothing and who buy them? Data for this study has been collected through structured questionaire survey for 606 married women in the City of Seoul including 192 mothers of elementary school students, 58 elementary school teachers, 210 mothers of middle and high school students, 56 mothers of undergraduate students, and 47 college professors. Since most women of our sample are relatively high in educational level and working for various educational institutions, the findings of this study should not be generalized as a general trend of urban Korea. Major findings of this study include: 1) Purchasing husbands' clothing is not entirely wives' domain. The degree of participation on the part of wives in selecting and buying of their husbands' clothing depends upon the kinds of clothings. If it is for such items as underwear, socks, handkerchief, or umbrella, which are relatively easy to choose in terms of size, outlook, and price, more wives do the job. Other- wise, however, husbands more actively participate in selecting and buying their own clothings such as shoes, overcoats, neck tie, and formal wear. 2) In terms of clothing behavior of husbands, it seems to be a general trend that husbands select their clothings, but wives buy them. 3) Variables related to socio-economic status seem to affect the clothing behavior of husbands. Those who more actively participate in selecting and buying their clothings include: husbands whose wives have a job outside thier family, younger in age, middle school or high school graduates rather than college graduate or husbands with far lesser education, and husbands who live in western style houses rether than in traditional Korean houses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).