• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.111-114
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• 2005

In this the study, polyester/cotton(P/C) blended fabrics with fine denier were developed to get the light weight compared with the traditional P/C blended fabrics. Moreover, the width of the fabrics was extended by the tenter during the final heat treatment to get the lower fabric density and lighter weight. Then, the physical properties of these fabrics were analysed. The results were as the follows: The developed fabrics had 22.6-31.6% lighter weight than the traditional fabrics with the same fabric width. The weight of fabric decreased drastically with the fabrics width down to 67.1 $g/m^2$. The fabric density for the warp direction decreased with the fabric width. The tenacity and the elongation of the developed fabrics was little lower than that of the traditional fabrics. The air permeability of the developed fabrics increased with that of the traditional fabrics. The stretch rate of the developed fabrics decreased with increasing the fabric width. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics was more stable than that of the traditional fabrics. Residual stretch rate of the developed fabrics increased with the fabric width, but the highest value was less than 5% which is quit stable.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.507-512
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• 2023

The traditional oviposition ground for indoor breeding of Luciola lateralis is moss. This study was conducted to find the most suitable alternative oviposition ground that can maintain or increase the oviposition rate of L. lateralis while addressing the problems of larva collection time and larva loss that occur when moss is used. As alternative candidate oviposition ground comprising six colors of non-woven fabric and felt were used to measure the fecundity variation rate of L. lateralis with respect to the color and material of the oviposition ground. In addition, measure the fecundity variation rate of L. lateralis in moss, a traditional oviposition ground, was also measured and investigated for comparison. The investigation showed that the average number of eggs in the non-woven fabric group was higher than that in the felt group. The yellow non-woven fabric had an average number of eggs that was more than 100 times higher than of moss used as a traditional oviposition ground. In the space where the six color non-woven fabric were together, L. lateralis concentrated its oviposition on yellow. These results showed that yellow non-woven fabric can be sufficiently used for efficient indoor mass breeding of L. lateralis while addressing problems caused by moss, a traditional oviposition ground.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.44-63
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• 2017

'Bukpo' is called 'Tongpo' or 'Balnaepo,' which respectively mean hemp fabric that goes into a small bamboo tube and women's table utensil 'bari' in Chosen. It is fine hemp fabric produced in Yukjin, Hamgyeong province. Korea has been divided into North and South since the Korean War in 1950. As it is hard to get information about Northern life style or their traditional technology, their hemp fabric production is also left unknown. This study demonstrates characteristics of the production of 'Bukpo' through "Ojuyeonmunjangjeonsango", the only document that marked about 'Bukpo' making process of the late Chosen dynasty. It aims to analyze the transition of the technique and the meaning by comparing the characteristics of the production of 'Bukpo' with the modern era's documents. In this process, I discovered that the hemp fabric production technique at 19th century shares some sort of similarities with that of Europe or Chinese Miao(hmong). But the hemp fabric production technique changed before the 20th century. The evolution of Northern hemp fabric production technique can be a good example to examine the context of the traditional craft technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.42-54
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to grasp problems through a basic survey of actual conditions of the Korean traditional costume industry and to grope a plan to settle the problems. The results were as follows. Operating Status: Rates of the companies' establishment were reduced in 2000s and their sales were also reduced. Status of Goods Development: Korean traditional costume manufacturers and Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies had the highest rate in non-trademark production. Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies and Korean traditional costume rental companies had high rate in self-design. However, Korean traditional costume manufacturers used textile companies' catalogue with the highest rate. Status of Demand and Supply in Human Resources: In human resources needing most, Korean traditional costume manufacturers were tailors, Korean traditional costume textile fBbric companies were salespersons and Korean traditional costume rental companies were designers. Status of Management and Marketing: Causes of difficulties in management were the market slump and the spreading of products made in China. They had a direct publicity through people around mainly. Therefore, it was urgently necessary to introduce special marketing methods. In an investment plan within three years in the future, about 70% did not have an investment plan. Opinions for Promotion of Korean traditional costume: In the government's support policy they wanted, construction of social atmosphere for Korean traditional costume-wearing and Korean traditional costume related educational support had the highest rate. Most of the companies answered that specialized Korean traditional costume agencies were necessary.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.354-363
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• 2003

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.123-132
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• 2009

Our government has declared the "Synthetic Project for Promoting Han-style" to industrialize and globalize the original form of Korea traditional culture. Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is one of the main subject of this project. However it is the global trend not to wear their traditional folk costume. And so, the number of people wearing Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is also getting gradually decreased in Korea. For Han-style Promoting Project in the future, it is one of the most efficient way for the middle and high school students to motivate and increase the interest about Han-style and Han-bok as the middle and high school uniforms. Adolescent middle and high school students think very important their appearance. Especially, Korean middle and high school students spend a lot of time in school, and so school uniforms are very influential in their mental and physical aspects. Fabrics for this study, they were woven twill with 3 kinds of fabric patterns from the motif of Baekje relics. The colors of fabrics is the blue and brown used in general school uniform, the yellow and red used in Han-bok. Considering the school uniforms, fabric patterns adapted the similar color matching method for not to be found cleary and designed the fabric pattern's one-repeat size is $4{\times}4cm$.

• Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.135-154
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to clarify the reason of the change of production-and-marketing system and of the regional division. The data for this study were collected by administering interviews with people engaging in hemp fabric industry: namely, craftsmen and managers in the production and marketing of "hemp fabric" handcraft. The summary of this study is as follows: First, the hemp fabric industry is a main subsidiary business of agriculture in Andong. The process of making hemp fabric heavily depends on manual labor. The process is divided into five stages: namely, cultivating hemp, pre-reeling, reeling, weaving, and colouring. Second, Andong "hemp fabric" handicrafts industry had been continuously growth until the late 1960s. During the period of Japan colonization, it was under boom condition: while the other traditional fabric industries were declined. In the 1970s, the decrease of the demand of hemp fabric was the result of mass production of substitute goods on factory system: while, in the 1980s, the growth of per capital income play an important role in bringing about the increased demand of hemp fabric. Third, in the 1980s. production-and-marketing system was changed as the result of the effort to improve the quality and the process, the advanced age of craftsmen, and the weak function of existing marketing systems. The social division of labor within the district is well developed between cultivating hemp, reeling and weaving. The social division of labor is also found in the partly process of handcratfs, and between the production and marketing. The social division of labor between production and marketing is not strongly developed to establish a reliable enterprise that develops a new product and opens a new market. Fourth, the spatial boundary of the production of hemp fabric handcrafts becomes limited into a special region based on the regional specialization of hemp cultivating and the differentiation of utilization of labor.