• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.250-271
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• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.597-606
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• 1998

The purposes of the study were 1) to evaluate the visual image of colored Korean traditional dress for woman 2) to analyze the colors and, color combinations effect on the image perception using gestalt theory. The research method was a quasi-experimental with a between subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli was consisted of 17 drawings of females wearing Korean tradinational dress, by using CAD simulation. A response scale consisted of semantic differential scales. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students of Taejon city, Chungnam province and Chungbuk province. Their responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, 1-test. Results were as follows; 1) The image of the stimulus was consisted of the 4 different dimensions.(sociability, evaluation, visibility, attractiveness) 2) Clothing colors had significant effects on image perception of the evaluation dimension, visibility dimension and attractiveness dimension in the mono-color set. The blue showed the most positive image on the evaluation dimension, and the yellow and the gray showed negative image on the same dimension. The yellow showed the most salient image and the gray showed the least salient image on the visibility dimension. The red showed the most attractive image and the green showed the least attractive image on the attractiveness dimension. 3) In hi-color set stimulus, the perceived image was influenced by color combinations. The yellow blouse-the red skirt set showed the most sociable image on the sociability dimension. The blue blouse-the green skirt set showed the most positive image on the evaluation dimension. The yellow blouse-the red skirt set showed the most salient image and the blue blouse-the green skirt set showed the least salient image on the visibility dimension. And the red blouse-the yellow skirt set showed the most attractive image on the attractiveness dimension. On conclusion the visual image of Korean traditional dress wearer was affected by dress colors and color combinations.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.107-118
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to be data and to help understanding of pattern of Korean, Chinese and Japanese traditional dress. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis of case studies about actual works. The summary of this study's results is like followings. First, standard of Pattern are nature, mam-made in motif object, Naturalistic, Geometric, Stylized, Abstract in motif express, Order, Disorder in pattern express. Second, a point of sameness of motif object in traditional dress of three nations were that nature and letter abstractive of mam-made is a lot. but motif of Japan was used in daily life motif of mam-made which was not in Korea and China Third, commonly, motif expression of three nations were developed Naturalistic, Stylized. but in Naturalistic, Korea was simple, plane, China was three-dimensional, Japan was expressed super realism. Fourth, as formative aesthetic of Pattern, Korea is natural, plane, simple and symbolic, China is gorgeous, three-dimensional, immaculacy, filling and symbolic, Japan is delicate, complicated, decoration and symbolic.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Korean traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses'aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, jukyee, whalot, weonsam and private weonsam and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows; Aesthetical senses shown in the Korean traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, whalot adpated revelation as its main factor while the remaining three types, or jukyee, weonsam and private weonsam were found having dignity as their main factors. Adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, warn, chaste, intellectual, bright, unique, regular, luxurious, classical, ornamental and beautiful suggesting that the Korean traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, but high in attractiveness and aesthetic beauty and has a better classical harmonization of dignity and revelation. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality(Korean and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization. Japanese people had unique and interesting senses while Korean people, chaste, calm and delicate aesthetical senses. According to gender, men revealed free senses and women, classical ones. According whether of specialization or non-specialization those who specialized in a related field had more unique, straight, regular, luxurious and interesting aesthetical senses that those who did not specialize.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.34-47
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• 2008

Recently, as popular interest in costumes in Korean films and TV dramas has increased, traditional dress in works has re-evaluated with modern perspective of the Western color system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the traditional dress for women appeared in works after the 2000s has shown features similar in the use of red has appeared high. The high frequency of brown and pink, orange and purple used main colors in Western works. Also, what is the most prominent is the high frequency of use of achromatic colors. Second, the color harmonies of the East and the West have been done through color arrangement. The structure with more than 2-colors has been gradually changing into single or 2-colors, which give simple images to people. Third, in order to portray characters' diverse and psychological situations, Korean works have expressed the symbolisms of colors from the Western perspective. Though red symbolizes theory of Yin-Yang and Five-Elements, passion and authority since 2000 have used red to make main images. Also, pink is used as softness and pure images. Though works before the 2000s showed low frequency of the brown. The achromatic color that it has been applied to various parts. Recently black has been developing into a color symbolizing themes. Given the results from this study, it could be expected in future that the categories of color domains will be gradually extended as it is a trend for the traditional dress to escape from primary colors. On the other hand, achromatic colors that minimal and modern sensibility as well as basic color in fashion, especially the black, will increasingly extend ranges of utility or show a tendency of resolute changes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.548-555
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the patterns of commercial Cheollik dresses by size analysis and wearing evaluation. Six kinds of commercial Cheollik dress patterns distributed on the market were selected and classified into two types group, A type group(A-1, A-2, A-3) consisting of flat type sleeve pattern and B type group(B-1, B-2, B-3) consisting of three-dimensional type sleeve pattern depending on the sleeve type. The size of the Cheollik dress pattern was analyzed, and wearing evaluations of the appearance, movability were carried out. Cheollik dress pattern was made in various size and many patterns were produced in the form of omission of components such as seop. It should be based on the understanding of the form and composition of the traditional Cheollik for pattern development. As a result of the wearing evaluation, A-2 showed the highest evaluation in the appearance and movability evaluations in type A. B-2 was the highest evaluation in appearance evaluation in type B. But in the evaluation of the movability, B-2 received the lowest evaluation because of little allowance. Therefore, the allowance in clothes should be considered enough for the movability. The result of this study can be provided as a basic data for the development of Cheollik dress pattern reflecting modern trend and the traditional beauty.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.128-136
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• 2002

This research was designed to study the Korean dress design trends and different kinds of ancient patterns applied to the Korean dresses in 2001. The trend sources were collected by the HANBOK monthly journal and the symbolism of patterns associated with these patterns being used the prevalent Korean dress collection in markets. The results of the research can be summarized as following; The most of Korean dress image was elegant of ancient mode. Main colors of the traditional Korean jacket were white, yellowish white and green. However, main color of the traditional Korean skirt was represented as red. A plant pattern was the most popular pattern in a practical purpose. It looks beautiful and it is also easily manufactured with open space. Copying other patterns definitely damage the elegance of the Korean dress. It is time for us to not only keep our own traditions but also study and develop new patterns. Designers must study to develop the image and patterns which are agreed with consumer's taste.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.477-491
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• 2015

This study analyzes Chinese dresses featured in propaganda posters since the mid-$20^{th}$ century as well as explores the political characteristics of dress. This study used an in-depth interview method to investigate information from 10 Chinese familiar with public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to present. Interviews and analysis provided the following conclusions. First, Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-Zhuang and Bulaji were widely worn in the Reconstruction because of the revolutionary spirit; in addition, Huayishang also became simultaneously popular as a means to reflect the new aspects of socialism. Second, Jufu/Junbianfu were the most common dresses during the period of Cultural Revolution because the government used various mechanisms to control public opinion. Third, Western fashion began to enter the Chinese market and suit wearing by the Chinese became a symbol of the Reformation and Open-door policy. Traditional dress is no longer a symbol of Feudalism and is a part of Chinese culture that has been reaccepted in the Reformation and Open-door times. Finally, during these 60 years, Chinese dress has obvious political characteristics, but began to change. The changes of political characteristics were, de-politicization expressed by the introduction of Western ready-made, permissions for traditional dress and diversification/ individualization.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2010

Atayal studied in this paper is one of the indigenous tribe in Taiwan, which is receiving considerable publicity gradually. Atayal has a quite unique traditional dress and custom as facial tattoo. The study was limited to the conventional culture of body adornment of the Atayal including the clothing which is less preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are just a little included in the scope of the present study. Through this study, we can get know about indigenous tribe's cultural background, such as their life, custom, religion, and the influences on traditional costumes. As for the research method, I examined the Atayal's traditional costumes and clothing through related books, magazine, research papers, internet sites, and etc. I also examined the common ground between facial tattoo patterns and their clothing using reference books and official web-site. Traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of facial tattoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Atayal. In way, I hope this study will make a contribution to the field of Korean fashion industry which intends to enter Taiwan market.