• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.443-452
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• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.71-88
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• 1998

This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.397-415
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.80-97
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• 2012

This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1205-1213
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• 2008

Material is a factor for maximizing formative aspect among fashion design factors. Therefore, central axis of modern fashion is performing various trials for escaping from existing cloth and searching for artistic value. Especially, Korean paper is a formative material, which is manufactured through traditional manual work in Korea. The material is used in various fields on the basis of its aesthetic feature. Especially, fashion field performs handcraft activity on the basis of mulberry pulp, which is a prime material of Korean paper. Because the activity can be reinterpreted by world designers, who want to find motive of fashion material in the third world, it is necessary to perform experimental study for developing expressive form on the basis of diversity of Korean paper material. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to perform experimental study by focusing on the development of Korean paper material in order to express formative feature. The study purposes are as follows. The first purpose is to reinterprete the theory through actual work of fiber formation using Korean paper in the current flow where art and design field are fused and compromised. The second purpose is to suggest vision of material development on the basis of formative feature to fashion world focusing its eyesight to Asia and the third countries. The study results are as follows. First, Korean paper has been evaluated as proper material for the fusion of design and art because of its handicraft feature, long-term preservation, heat insulation, absorption, diversity and eastern feature. Second, the study performed various trials for artistic dress material by developing 12 Korean paper works and suggested the development of new material on the basis of formative feature of modem fashion industry.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.103-121
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• 2002

This study intended to analyze the transition of design of Korean soccer player's uniform according to development of the society and changes in formative elements, and examine features inside them by considering designs of soccer player's uniform by ages ranging from the introduction of soccer up to now. Results of the study are summed up below. First, as a result of analyzing designs of soccer player's uniforms from 1920 to 2002 Korea-Japan WorldCup based on formative elements of the style of dress. \circled1 it is shown that basic shape has been kept but changes in only color. cutting, trimming, logo and symbol have existed. \circled2 Colors of the uniforms have been different according to ages but red, blue and white colors have been used most and sometimes black was employed. so it is known that colors in the Korean national emblem have been all used. \circled3 In the beginning of the uniform there was a limitation in its design due to absence of functional materials but now highly-sensitive textile products and highly-functional textile materials guaranteeing optimal condition and highest activity of a soccer player have been utilized in various ways. \circled4 It is known that symbols modelling the image of Korea have been used in diverse ways but effected much by directions toward images pursued by designers of sponsors. Second, the meanings represented by designs of the uniforms are classified into a degree of symbolizing Korea, tradition, superiority and dynamics. That is to say, \circled1as colors and symbols coming from the emblem have been used in the uniforms. they have symbolized one nation and possessed the meaning representing even Korean national spirit. \circled2As traditional colouring and symbols have been used in the uniforms, they have shown the Korean sense of a beauty. \circled3 Colors, tones and designs overwhelming the mood of play have been used in the uniforms, so that they have played a role in making players of other team flinch mentally and making Korean players gain an advantage over them. \circled4 Thanks to strong symbols or comparative effects of colors. they have shown the dynamics representing power and energy.