• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.420-428
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• 2020

This study analyzed the expression of hanbok in online fashion styling games, and examined the main themes of and user reactions to hanbok fashion styling games through semantic network analysis and sentiment analysis. KrKwic, Textom, and NodeXL were used for data collection and analysis. The findings of the study are as follows: First, depending on the designer's expressive method, hanbok fashion styling games provide typical traditional hanbok, modern hanbok, and dress-like fusion hanbok, demonstrating contents with various themes for different sexes, classes, and situations. Second, as a result of analyzing the themes of hanbok-related styling game contents, it turned out that the main themes are tradition, color, historical drama, fusion hanbok, holiday, and love. Most of them produce modernized hanbok that reflect the situation and utility rather than strictly traditional ones. Third, as a result of analyzing user reviews of hanbok styling game contents, positive factors mostly turned out to be the satisfaction of the hanbok contents, with the users also showing positive intent to wear hanbok. Through this, it was found out that hanboks portrayed in game contents could potentially cause the user's positive intent to wear hanbok. Negative factors turned out to be the discordance between the intrinsic image of hanbok and the game character's image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.151-166
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• 2013

This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of $21^{st}$ century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan's traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.111-120
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• 2012

Indonesia has a wealth of traditional textiles that are spread in every corner of its region, each of them has its own characteristics and uniquennes. Among the diversity of decorative and techniques used, there are also peculiarities arising from the coloring techniques, that is staining with natural dyes. The existence and the authenticity of the coloring techniques are still retained in some places in Indonesia until today. Generally, these societies make the fabric-making process as part of the ritual beliefs. One of which are the societies in Tenganan, Bali, an area in Bali which always use fabric as an important part in every traditional ceremony. The fabrics is known by the name Geringsing. The typically color which shown and also the sacred values that accompany make Geringsing a very special woven fabric and cannot be found in other areas. This is one of the local geniuses that need to be preserved. In addition to its unique techniques and special materials, Geringsing woven also keeps its myth and its philosophy. The emersion of Geringsing woven closely related to the community trust in God Indra as the main protector deity. The necessary initial process of making Geringsing is holding special ceremony attended by various circles of Tenganan village society. People in Tenganan believe that Geringsing is a precious heritage avoiding all diseases and disorders of evil spirits.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.558-571
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• 2023

In recent years, young Chinese consumers have become more favorably inclined toward products relating to traditional culture. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a textile design that incorporates traditional Chinese patterns and cultural symbolism that will appeal to consumers from the MZ generation (millennials and Generation Z). Through a literature search for traditional Chinese patterns and symbols regarded as auspicious, our design concept and motives were established. We selected peony, lotus, and frog motifs as representative of a "wealth and eternal prosperity" design theme. In textile design work 1, we used hand drawing and watercolor techniques, color transformation with Adobe Photoshop, and colorway and end-use 3D simulation with TexPro. The 3D simulation work suggests that this textile pattern is suitable for women's outerwear, mufflers, and tote bags. Textile design work 2 conveyed the 'wealth and eternal prosperity' design theme and had a graceful mood that embodied the nobility of the lotus flower whilst also encompassing the symbolism of money and status. The end design is a modern reinterpretation of traditional Chinese patterns and motifs. As such, it is hoped that it will satisfy the needs of young consumers for cultural values yet offer a unique new aesthetic distinct from existing textile designs. These qualities can be expected to enhance the competitive market value of textiles bearing this design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.281-292
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• 1997

Tatan is a symbol of kinship and belonging in Scotland and a badge of identity recognized all over the world. Alongside the powerful historical and national resonance to Tartan for Scots it has been borrowed repeatedly by fashion. The pattern compositionof Tartan check is formed as a typical cross stripes that vertical line and hrizontal line meets rectangulary. And its color is much various and rich than other check pattern. So its magnificient spec-tacle that various all kinds of colors is dyed in cloth is second to name. Today we are as likely to meet tartan in a couturier dress as in a kilt or plaid. Tartan is distinctive in colour style and de-sign. It conveys personality ceremony and drama. All these aspects of its character have contributed to tartan being one of the best-known and best-loved fabrics in the world. In other parts of Europe traditional checked patterns declined and disappeared but in Scotland tartan survived strongly jist as the bagpipes also European flourished Due to geographical and cultural circumstances Scots were able to develop and enhance tartan and its remarkable individuality ensured its sur-vival in spite of adverse political and economic pressures. Tartan has been adopted as the national dress of all Scots. Lowland and High-land providing a powerful form of national cultural and personal identity. Whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether a symbol of nationality or a substitute for nationhood tartan is no mean achievement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.139-152
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to consider what influences the Spanish folk costumes had on the ones of Latin America on Acculturation Phenomenon during Spanish reign over Latin America. As a method of doing this, the researcher compared and analyzed the style of dress such as color, material, design and accessories of Spanish folk costumes and the ones of Latin America, classifying them by male costumes and female ones respectively, by studying reference books, literature, and photographs related to the folk costumes and visiting this areas. The results of the study were summarized as follows; First, we can find out Spanish folk costumes were accepted to the folk costumes of Latin America just as it were. Second, Spainish folk costumes have been developed to be suitable for the climatic, geographical cultural characteristics of Latin America. Third, the folk costumes of Latin America become much simpler by the influence of Spainish culture. Fourth, as a result of cultural contact, mixture with Spainish culture, native folk costumes of Latin America had more various style. In conclusion, Spanish government over Latin America had given a cultural homogeneousness and colonial culture of Spain and traditional culture of Latin America have been mixed and created the present unique folk costumes of Latin America. Therefore good understanding and use of the sense of beauty of folk clothes of Latin America influenced by Spain culture will be helpful to enlarge creativeness of design of modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.143-155
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• 2014

This study focuses on Yusam, a military raincoat that was worn during the Joseon Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to review the types and management system of Yusam. Documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research materials. Yusam was recorded as either Yusam(油衫) or Yu-ui(油衣) in writing. It usually looked like a skirt and was worn like a cape, but there were differences in length. Some of them took the form of a short coat with half-sleeves and side slits. Research analysis results of Silrok, Ilseongrok and the archives of the military camp in the later Joseon are as follows: First, Mokyusam and Jiyusam coexisted as military raincoats. Mokyusam was made with cotton and perilla oil, while Jiyusam was made with traditional Korean paper, a cotton edging and perilla oil. Second, the differences between general Yusam and military Yusam include the material of the clothing, the materials for waterproofing, the color, and the manufacturer. Third, each military camp supplied soldiers with hundreds to thousands of Yusam. Military officers and King's guards wore Mokyusam because Mokyusam was higher than Jiyusam. Fourth, soldiers Yusam together with Yujeongeon, Chorip, Galmo, or Hwihang as a hat. Fifth, the higher the rank, the higher the price of Yusam and the longer the term of usage. On the other hand, as the rank got higher, the cost of the supplementary oil rose, while the duration of usage got shorter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.143-157
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• 1998

This research is to aim at presenting arrangement of colors, visual and symbolic through combined coupling ofI-Ging and Sackdong. This combined couplings is attempted to be approached by the following 4 conceptual steps :ⅰ) Is it appropriate to even try to coupleI-Ging with Sackdong\ulcorner ⅱ) Is the basic structure of Kwai an object of stripe colorizing\ulcorner ⅲ) What are the fundamental colors for this purpose\ulcorner ⅳ)combined of Kwai and the fundamental colors. Theoretical background for this study is as follows.ⅰ) Color accord and arrangements of existing Sackdong. ⅱ) An attempt to coupleI-Ging with Sackdong The purpose of this research is to expand concrete concept of Sackdong, which is to be utilized not only in costume design, but in the whole realm of design, by presenting feasible application of stripe coloredI-Ging. The summary of conclusion of this research is as follows. A. Is this aforementioned attempt academic\ulcorner B. Standardization of stripe-coloring is essential. Furthurmore we can conclued that the under-standing ofI-Ging and its basic philosophical background and the fundamental mechanism of colors in traditional costumes is necessary condition for standardization of Kwai. Along this path, however, conditions to be satisfied and priorities to be given depend upon the decision of an individual or a group. In my view, sripe-colorizing of 64 Kwais ofI-Ging followed by intuitive matching of colors with the in-terpretation of Kwais seems to be the most appropriate solution.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.