• 제목/요약/키워드: traditional common culture

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카톨릭교 전례복에 관한 연구-독일 Paderborn 과 kevelaer의 전례복 회사를 중심으로 (A Study on the Liturgical Vestments of Catholic-With reference to the Liturgical Vestments Firm of Paderborn and kevelaer in Germany)

  • 양리나
    • 자연과학논문집
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    • 제7권
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    • pp.133-162
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    • 1995
  • 전례복의 전통을 고수하며 최상의 예술적 가치를 지닌 제의를 생산하는 Paderborn의 Wameling과 Cassau, 그리고 성모마리아 성지 순례지인 Kevelaer에 위치한 Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH는 "Hidden Company"로 전유럽과 아프리카, 미국과 스칸디나비아 반도에 까지 널리 알려진 독일의 전례복기업으로 수 세기동안 종교적인 중심이 서 있던곳, 교회의 예식의 삶이 발전되어온 곳, 바로 그곳에서 계속해서 오늘날까지 예술의 수호자와 격려자로서의 모습을 굳건이 지켜나가고 있다. 이러한 3개 회사를 통하여 알아본 카톨릭 전례복은 다양한 모양과 색채, 형태와 기법을 사용하여 단순한 종교적 상징성을 넘어 미적인 화려함과 조형적인 조화로 현대직물예술, 미술의상, 그리고 디자인 전반에 활용이 기대되며, 신자들에게는 전례복에 대한 상징의 미와 조화에 대한 이해를 돕고, 비신자들로 하여금은 종교예술에 대한 의식과 관심이 정식적인 사고나 신앙심을 유발시키는데 중요한 영향을 끼치리라 본다. 전례복은 성직자가 미사. 성사. 집행. 행렬. 강복등의 모든 의식때 교회규정에 따라 입는 예복들을 총칭하는 말이다. 이러한 전례복은 무언의 언어로써 신성의 표현을 겉으로 드러낸것으로 세속인과 성직자를 구별해준다. 또 예식을 집행하는 사제의 몸짓과 동작, 언어를 뒷받침하여 전례의 뜻을 더욱 시각적으로 강하게 나타내 주고, 성직자로 하여금 성직의 직무에 더욱 충실할수 있도록 심리적영향도 준다. 이뿐만 아니라 전례복은 성직자의 지위와 권위를 나타내며 신자들로 하여금 성직자에 대한 위엄과 존경심을 불러 일으키고 전례복의 상징과 색체를 통해 전례의식의 기쁨과 슬픔을 심리적으로 공감하여 예식의 아름답고 신비스런 분위기를 창출하게 하므로 더 한층 신앙의 깊이를 부과시켜 준다. 전례복은 그리이스, 로마의 초상기 세속복이 종교적 경향을 띄면서 기독교 복식으로 자리 잡은 것으로, 313년 로마 Constantinus 황제에 의해 기독교가 공인되기 전까지는 세속인과 구별되는 특별한 제복은 없었다. 인간의 심리를 가장 잘 표현한 제의의 색채도 원래는 순수 흰색이었던 것이 12C 교황 Innocentius 3세에 의해 전례축일과 각 시기에 따라 특수한 색채를 사용하도록 규정되었으며, 현재의 전례복 색채의 상징적 의미는 교황 St. Pius (재위1566-1572)에 의해서 지니게 되었다. 장식과 소재도 초창기에는 대부분 모, 아마등이 사용되다가 4C부터 비단과 같은 특별한 소재가 사용되기 시작하였고 12C에는 금실로 직조된 화려한 소재가 사용되었다. 장식으로는 상징 문양의 자수, 직조, 아프리케의 견고하고 아름다운 장식이 널리 사용된다. 또 형태는 전통적으로 가장 널리 사용되어온 반원형의 풍성한 제의가 죄를 덮어주는 자비의 상징으로 오늘날 다시 유행하고 있다. 미래의 제의 형태도 결정적인 큰 변화는 없을 것으로 예측된다. 전례복의 발전은 계속해서 보수적인 교회의 명령에 의해 움직여질것이며 오늘날까지 변화해온 그 방식 그대로 각 시대의 문화와 시대정신, 복식의 유행에 따라 조금씩 변화의 과정을 거쳐 시대감각에 적합하도록 단순하고, 간편하게 변해갈 것이다. 사제의 수가 줄고 전례용품의 수요가 급격히 줄어들지도 모르는 판매 부진의 시기가 곧 닥쳐오게 될지도 모르는 상황속에서도 전례복기업들은 각기업의 전례복 차별화와 예술적 진보를 위해 끊임없이 다양한 문양, 자수기술 개발, 창조적인 형태의 디자인 실현을 통하여 세계속에서 초 일류기업으로 당당하게 경쟁할 능력을 준비하고 있다. 또 각기업은 예술가의 적극적인 관심과 참여의식을 유도하고, 전시회와 전속예술가를 위한 Atelier를 마련하며, 다른 회사의 전례복과 구별되는 직물의 생산을 위해 자가 직물공장을 세우거나, 한 회사만을 위하여 직물을 생산토록 독점계약을 맺는등 소재의 독창화와 예술적 가치에 심혈을 쏟고 있다. 또한 외국신문에 기업광고를 내고, 영업사원을 활성화하며, 고객의 철저한 사후 A.S를 실시하여 기업의 발전에 노력하고 있다. 또 각 교회에서는 전례복 자수협회를 창단하여 취미 자수가나 재봉인의 교류에도 힘쓰며 전례복 생산과 자수공예를 배우려는 사람들에게 지원과 격려를 아끼지 않는다. 이와 같은 기업, 예술가, 교회의 노력은 3회사의 미래가 밝을 것임을 충분히 알려준다. 우리나라에서도 기업의 다양한 기술개발과 연구, 예술가의 종교미술의 참여, 교회의 관심을 통하여 세계적으로 유명한 전례복 생산지가 되기를 기대해 본다.

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페르낭 크노프(Fernand Khnopff)의 작품에 나타난 벨기에 상징주의와 내셔널리즘 (Fernand Khnopff's Belgian Symbolism and Nationalism in I Lock My Door upon Myself)

  • 정연심
    • 미술이론과 현장
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    • 제9호
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    • pp.171-193
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    • 2010
  • This paper examines Fernand Khnopff's Symbolism, focusing on the I Lock My Door upon Myself as a manifesto of his artistic credo in style and theme. Its title was originally in English, originating from the poem "Who Shall Deliver Me?" by Dante Gabriel Rossetti's sister Christina Rossetti. I use the term "Social Symbolism" which combines a nationalist perspective with traditional French Symbolism, in order to explain how the image of Bruges is represented in his oeuvre. Symbolism calls for psychological introspection evoking death, love, silence, and solitude and recluse from realty in pursuit of the Unknown and the Ideal. Although Khnopff shared this idea, he departed from symbolist tradition by incorporating a political milieu in his paintings. First, I discuss Khnopff's early stage in the formation of his artistic concept, including his family background as well as his early opportunity to visit the Exposition Universelle in Paris where he formed his early interests in aesthetics, philosophy, literature, mythology and Egyptian art. His early works, La Painture, la Musique, la Poesie(1880-1881), Le Crise(1881), and En ecoutant Schuman(1883) reveal his favorite subjects which were quite prevalent in the symbolist traditions of both Belgium and France. By looking at Khnopff's paintings, I endeavor to situate his Symbolism in the context of the development of Belgian modernity and cultural nationalism. Second, my analysis of Khnopff creates a new overview of Symbolism in Europe, especially in Belgium. In the absence of socio-political integration, the Symbolist painter adds nostalgic meaning to the landscape of Bruges. The scene of Bruges illuminates the social atmosphere in Belgium at that time. Since Belgium became an independent country, it tried to differentiate its own cultural and national identity from France. There was a powerful social movement for Belgium to claim its own identity, language, and culture. Bruges was, for Symbolists, the epitome of Belgium's past glory. This encouraged the formation of Belgian nationalism centering on Brussels, as I demonstrate in Khnopff's Bruges-la-Morte(1892). The relationship between Symbolist artist and writers is crucial for understanding this development. Khnopff, for instance, illustrated or provided frontispieces for many Symbolist writers such as Rodenbach, Peladan, Spencer and Le Roy. Khnopff did not objectify the exact meaning, but rather provided his own subjective interpretation. In this respect, I Lock My Door, inspired by Rossetti, started from the same motif, but Khnopff seeked escape into silence and death while Rossetti searched for Christian salvation. Finally my paper deals with the social context in which Khnopff worked. He was a founding member of Les XX in 1883 and later La Libre Esthethetique he also participated in the exhibition of le Salon de la Rose + Croix. Les XX was not a particular school of art and did not have a uniform manifesto, but its exhibitions focused on decorative arts by encompassing art for all people via common, everyday objects. The Periodical, L'art moderne was founded to support this ideal by Edmond Picard and Maux. Les XX declared art as independent art, detached from all official connections. Khnopff designed the 1890 catalogue cover of Les XX and the 1891 cover. These designs show decorative element of Art Nouveau in an early example of "modern poster." Les XX pursued all art including graphic arts, prints, placard, posters and book illustrations and design. These forms of art were l'art social and this movement was formed by the social atmosphere in Belgium in terms of social reforms and strikes by working class. Khnopff designed the book cover for la Maison du Peuple. The artist, however, did not share the ideal egalitarianism of the working class to a certain degree, while he was working in his villa he designed under the ideal motto, "on n'a pas que," he expressed the nihilistic emotions toward society by the theme of interiority such as solitude, silence, narcissism, introspection, and introversion. In the middle of his Symbolism, we find the "cultural nostalgia" or longing that the artist develops in the I Lock My Door upon Myself. Khnopff's longing toward the lost city of "Bruges" form the crux of his "Social Symbolism."

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1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구 (A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • 복식
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    • 제36권
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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농업기계화(農業機械化)의 투자효과분석(投資效果分析)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -충남논산지역(忠南論山地域) 새마을 기계화영농단(機械化營農團)을 중심(中心)으로- (A Study on Analysis of Investment Effects of Farm Mechanization, Korea -Mainly on the Case Study of Saemaeul Farm Mechanization Groups in Nonsan Area, Chungnam Province-)

  • 임재환;한관순
    • 농업과학연구
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    • 제14권1호
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    • pp.164-185
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    • 1987
  • The Korean economy has been developed rapidly in the course of implementing the five year economic development plans since 1962. Accordingly the industrial and employment structure have been changed from the traditional agriculture to modem industrial economy. In the course of implementing export oriented industrialization policies, rural farm economy has been encountered labour shortage owing to rural farm population drain to urban areas, rural wage hike and pressure on farm operation costs, and possibility of farm productivity decrease. To cope with the above problems the Korean government has supplied farm machinery such as power tillers, tractors, transplanters, binders, combines, dryers and etc. by means of the favorable credit support and subsidies. The main objectives of this study are to identify the investment effects of farm mechanization such as B/C and Internal Rate of Return by machinery and operation patterns, changes of labour requirement per 10a for rice culture since 1965, partial farm budget of rice with and without mechanization, and estimation labour input with full mechanization. To achieve the objectives Saemaeul farm mechanization groups, common ownership and operation, and farms with private ownership and operation were surveyed mainly in Nonsan granary area, Chungnam province. The results of this study are as follows 1. The national average of labor input per 10a of paddy has decreased from 150.1Hr in 1965 to 87.2Hr in 1985 which showes 42% decrease of labour inputs. On the other hand the hours of labour input in Nonsan area have also decreased from 150.1Hr to 92.8Hr, 38% of that in 1965, during the same periods. 2. The possible labor saving hours per 10a of Paddy was estimated at 60 hours by substituting machine power for labor forces in the works of plowing, puddling, transplanting, harvesting and threshing, transporting and drying The labor savings were derived from 92.8 hours in 1986 deducting 30 hours of labor input with full mechanization in Nonsan area. 3. Social benefits of farm mechanization were estimated at 124,734won/10a including increment of rice (10%): 34,064won,labour saving: 65,800won,savings of conventional farm implements: 18,000 won and savings of animal power: 6,870won. 4. Rental charges by works prevailing in the area were 12,000won for land preparation, 15,000won for transplanting with seedlings, 19,500won for combine works and 6,000won for drying paddy. 5. Farm income per 10a of paddy with and without mechanization were amounted to 247,278won and 224,768won respectively. 6. Social rate of return of the machinery were estimated at more than 50% in all operation patterns. On the other hand internal rate of return of the machinery except tractors were also more than 50% but IRR of tractors by operation patterns were equivalent to 0 to 9%. From the view point of farmers financial status, private owner-operation of tractors is considered uneconomical. Tractor operation by Saemaeul mechanization groups would be economical considering the government subsidy, 40% of tractor price. 7. Farmers recommendations for the government that gained through field operation of farm machinery are to train maintenance technology for rural youth, to standardize the necessary parts of machinery, to implement price tag system, to intercede spare parts and provide marketing information to farmers by rural institutions as RDA,NACF,GUN office and FLIA.

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중국 하북성 마을제 연구 - 하북성조현범장이월이룡패회중룡신적여인(河北省趙縣范庄二月二龍牌會中龍神的與人) - (A Study of Local Festival for the China Hebeisheng)

  • 박광준
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제36권
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    • pp.347-377
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    • 2003
  • China is a country with large agricultural areas and subject to frequent calamities. Drought is the top of them. It has been a key problem for development of agriculture in the country. In the long struggle against drought, Chinese have accumulated many rational and irrational experiences. The Dragon Kings Belief, which is popular in North China and discussed in a thesis, is one of their irrational experiences. The belief was passed together with Buddhism from India to China in the Tang Dynasty. After it settled down, it was incorporated with the local five dragons belief and a set of beliefs in dragon kings came into existence. The emergence of the dragon kings belief ended the history that the title of rain got was not clear in China and Dragon kings finally got the status. Irrigation is the lifeblood of agriculture in China. In a Chinese mind, Dragon kings are the most important gods who take charge of rain and thus offer the lifeblood. In understanding the nature and characteristics of Chinese traditional culture, it is important for us to make clear the origin and evolution of the belief, find out its nature, function and operation. In the every year beginning of February of the Fanzhuang calendar in the people of Hebeisheng Zhaoxian, would all hold a festival to offer sacrifices to the $^{{\circ}TM}^{\prime}longpai$. Longpai was regarded as the core of the temple fair, thus the native sons came to call this festival; "longpaihui". In this region the'Fanzhuang longpaihui'developed into a well knownand grand temple fair. It was able to attract numerous pilgrims with its special magic power, occupying a place in $China^{{\circ}TM}$ 'eryueer'festival with festive dragon activities. The dragon is a common totem among Chinese nationals. The belief worship of the dragon dates from the start time of primitive societies. Dragon oneself the ancients worship's thunder lightning. In the worship of the great universe, at first afterwards this belief with the tribe's totem worships to combine to become the animal spirit. In ancient myths legends, along with folk religion and beliefs all hold a very important position. The longpaihui is a temple fair without a temple; this characteristic is a distinction between longpaihui and other temple fairs. As for longpaihui must of the early historical records are unclear. The originator of a huitou system has a kind of organized form of the special features rather, originator of a huitou not fix constant, everything follows voluntarily principle, can become member with the freedom, also can back at any time the meeting. There is a longpaihui for 'dangjiaren', is total representative director in the originator of a huitou will. 'banghui' scope particularly for extensive, come apparently every kind of buildup that help can return into the banghui, where is the person of this village or outside village of, the general cent in banghui work is clear and definite, for longpaihui would various businesses open smoothly the exhibition provides to guarantees powerfully. Fanzhuang longpaihui from the beginning of February to beginning six proceed six days totally. The longpai is used as the ancestry absolute being to exsits with the community absolute being at the same time in fanzhuang first took civil faith, in reality is a kind of method to support social machine in native folks realize together that local community that important function, it provided a space, a kind of a view to take with a relation, rising contact, communication, solidify the community contents small village, formation with fanzhuang. The fanzhuang is used as supplies for gathering town, by luck too is this local community trade exchanges center at the same time therefore can say the faith of the longpai, in addition to its people's custom, religious meaning, still have got the important and social function. Moreover matter worthy of mentioning, Longpai would in organize process, from prepare and plan the producing of meeting every kind of meeting a longpeng of the matter do, all letting person feeling is to adjust the popular support of, get the mass approbation with positive participate. Apart from the originator of a huitou excluding, those although not originator of a huitou, however enthusiasm participate the banghui of its business, also is too much for the number.