• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.945-962
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• 2022

This study examines the use of traditional patterns by new Hanbok brands. A Saekdong print pattern based on previous research was developed and applied to clothing designs. A total of 488 images of printed products from the seven new Hanbok brands and 219 images from the collections of the National Folk Museum of Korea were analyzed. Traditional patterns accounted for 47.4% of the total printed products of the new Hanbok designs, with the following ratio of use, in descending order: flower patterns, traditional paintings, animals, geometrical designs, Dancheong, text and others, Jogakbo, and Saekdong. Saekdong was found in three brand products, and the color or shape was modified. To develop the Saekdong image, five colors - red, yellow, blue, white, and green - were selected. The ratio of use for each color and the width of each color were determined with reference to previous studies. The average color value was determined through color analysis of the Saekdong collections. A total of seven items were designed for the print pattern, and four items were added for coordination to consist of four styles. This study aims to use the results of this analysis to provide insights into product development using traditional patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.29-38
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship of clothing behavior with such psychological variables as self-esteem and impulsiveness, to disclose the relationship between children's clothing behavior and their mother's child-rearing attitueds, to investigate the levels of clothing behavior according to children's sex and their mothers having job. Questionaires for clothing behavior and child-rearing attitudes were chosen from ones which were used in privious studies, and the items were selected on the Cronbach's Alpha Reliability Coefficient. For mearsurement of impulsiveness, a portion of "personality Inventory" by Beommo Chung was used, while Robinson and Shaver's self-esteem scale was adopted for mearsutement of self-esteem. Clothing behavior was composed of 6 variables: clothing interest, clothing satisfation, clothing management, clothing sex-role, clothing comfort, and clothing independence. Samples were 380 boys and girls (4th, 5th, 6th grade) of three elementary schools in Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed by correlation coefficient, t-test, F-test, and multiple regression analysis. The results were as follows : 1. Self-esteem had positive relations with clothing satisfaction, clothing management, and clothing sex-role. Girls who had higher self-esteem were less interested in traditional sex-role attitudes in clothing. Boys who had higher self-esteem were higher in clothing independence. 2. Those who had higher impulsiveness were higher in clothing interest, but lowere in clothing satisfaction, clothing management, and clothing independence. 3. Loving and receptive child-rearing attitude had positive relations with clothing satisfaction and clothing management, but a negative relation with clothing sex-role. When mothers had higher loving and receptive child-rearing attitude, their sons had higher traditional attitude in clothing sex-role. Democratic and self-regulating child-rearing attitude had no relation with clothing behavior. 4. To lpredict clothing satisfaction, 4 independent variables (selfesteem, impulsiveness, mother's loving and receptive child-rearing attitude, and mother's democratic and self-regulating child-rearing attitude) were selected. The explanatory power of the four variables was 15%. Clothing satisfaction was most influenced by self-esteem, and not significantly influenced by mother's child-rearing attitudes. 5. Clothing interest and clothing management were higher with the girls than with the boys, while clothing comfort was higher with the bodys. 6. When children's mothers had a job, the children tended to have higher liberal attitudes in clothing sex-role.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.161-177
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to analyze the effect of the traditional color sentiment on the contemporary clothing color by researching the street fashion of 2010 Winter season of Dalian in China, in view of the clothing color of women in their 20-30 years of age, along with traditional Chinese color. This is the 2nd paper following the paper no. 1, focusing on 2010 Summer season, so the research method is same as the paper no. 1. As a result, Black and deep tone PB color most frequently appeared. The vivid and strong tone of R, YR, Y color showed high frequency of clothing colors. This results illustrate that the clothing color choices of Chinese women was affected by Chinese traditional color sentiment rather than the international color trend. Characteristically, in winter season, frequency of R and Y color categories were higher than in summer season, specially in the top and accessories color, those colors showed higher frequency than the other colors. These were the important points in dealing with winter color trend, so that the fashion company and brands should take it an important points when they are planning winter clothing colors. The achromatic colors show the high frequency in both seasons. The bottom color shows high incidence of Black and deep tone of PB color categories as in the previous researches. That means consistent color trend existed in Dalian city, however it does not seem to have its origin from traditional Chinese color preferences. This kinds of regional and seasonal research might contribute to finding the basic informations about the design and marketing strategies to launch into the Chinese fashion market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.828-848
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze how modern fashion brands practice cultural sustainability by investigating the ways they use and reinterpret traditional culture and clothing. The transmission and reinterpretation of traditional cultural elements connect the past, present, and future. These forces also lead to the development of new creativity in the fashion industry. Three brands have been selected for case studies: Danha (Korea), Mittan (Japan), and Jan Jan Van Essche (Belgium). These brands possess in-depth understanding of traditional cultural elements, including clothing, dyeing techniques, and patterns unique to various regions and minority groups. The brands all make use of traditional cultural identities whose clothing contains the historical and sentimental values of various regions and ethnic groups. The use and mixing of various cultures can be seen as the respectful preservation of global culture. Also, in contemporary fashion, the use of traditional culture plays an important role in the presentation and development of creative designs. The use of traditional handicraft techniques and the use of traditional clothing in the past convey cultural diversity to future generations; they will have a lasting influence on future fashion trends. The results of the study show that cultural sustainability in contemporary fashion has been implemented through safeguarding and respecting indigenous cultures and developing cultural elements into creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.211-227
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of design modification, decoration and color scheme of traditional Korean women's clothing on impression formation by 2 age groups of women. The instruments developed for the study were 2 sets of stimuli and a response scale. Stimuli I (design stimuli) consisted of 6 line drawings of female figures in Korean clothing and modified Korean style clothing, whereas stimuli II (color stimuli) consisted of 6 colored drawings of female figures in different color schemes. The 7-point semantic differential scale of 14 bipolar adjectives were used for the response scales. 144 female college students and 144 middle·aged women subjects were randomly assigned to one of 6 drawings from each set of stimuli. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA and t-test. 1) There factors emerged to account for dimensions of design and color scheme, respectively. The first factor was interpreted as Evaluation/prestige both in design (stimuli I) and color scheme (stimuli II), the second factor was Modernity for stimuli I, and the third factor for stimuli I was Practicality. On the other hand, the Luxuriousness/Individuality was factor 2 and Modernity was factor 3 for stimuli ll. 2) Modification had the largest effect on impressions regarding design and decorated designs had a partial effect on the impression of Modernity and Practicality. The female figures in modified Korean style clothing were perceived as more prestigious, modern and practical than those in traditional Korean clothing. 3) Color schemes had little effect on impressions, while perceiver's age had a larger effect. Middle·aged women formed more positive impressions toward Korean clothing of various color schemes than female college students.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.15-28
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate how gender role attitudes affect clothing involvement and clothing consumption behaviors in young female generation by changing the traditional sex role stereotype. For the research, the survey was conducted for a month from June 15 to July 15, 2009. Data was collected a total of 368 questionnaires from 20's female university students and analyzed 301 questionnaires with SPSS 12.0. The results were as follows. First, the results of factor analysis on gender role attitudes confirmed the multifactorial theory of gender schema: modern masculinity, conservative gender roles, modern feminity based on emotion, gender role openness, and traditional feminity. Second, gender role attitude of female university students was a little conservative but flexible to accommodate masculinity and active in the emotion expression. Third, gender role attitudes had important effects on clothing involvement which was identified into 4 different factors; fashion involvement, clothing interest, performance risk, and social psychological risk. Fourth, gender role attitudes were related with clothing consumption behaviors as like shopping orientation, on-going information search behavior and brand loyalty because of needs for innovation, exhibition and differentiation. Therefore, it was concluded that not only 'androgynous' from modern feminity based on emotion but also 'masculinity' was applied to important fashion marketing strategic tools by statically affecting female consumer's clothing involvement and clothing behaviors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.54-66
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• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.