• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.17-25
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• 1995

The aim of thesis is to analyze dress phenomena, the semantic function and meaning of clothing were respectively on the basis of Semantics and Society by Geoffrey Leech and mentalistic semantics. To comprehend the actual clothing behaviour better, the pictures taken on the streets were used, including all kinds of the western-style and the traditional Korean costumes in Korea. The followings are the findings of the analysis. A in language, the semantic functions of the clothing are the informational, the expressive, the directive, the aesthetic, and the phatic functions. They communicate operating simultaneously. The clothing is the mentalistic semantics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.880-890
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the spirit of the times and the characteristics of each eras fashionable silhouette and clothing in Gothic and Modern Period. Theoretical studies about the spirit of times, and the characteristics of clothing about each times were preceded. The results were as follows: The similarities of spirit of times were 1) emphasis on reason and rationality 2) centralization by christianity in Gothic Period, and modernism theory in Modern Period 3) times of the nobility and the churchman in Gothic, and elite class in Modern era. The similarities of characteristics of clothing were 1) preference of slim body form as the ideal body figure, 2) emphasis on convenience and function for freedom in action, 3) discontinuation of traditional way of clothing attitude, 4) emphasis on straight and simple on the silhouette and design, 5) tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1047-1058
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• 2009

Japanism represents a Japanese sense presented in Collections by many world-class western designers who are inspired by Japanese Kimonos. This study analyzes how the traditional Japanese costumes were applied to the modern clothing and the mix and match style appeared at the Japanism fashion based on the Fashion Collections during the three years from the spring of 2006 to the winter of 2008. The analysis was performed based on preceding studies, literature, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and the Collections during the three years. The results of this study on Japanism covers: the application of Kimono design, Kimono sleeves, Kimono neck line to coats, jackets, one-pieces, and blouses; the application of traditional geometrical patterns, flower patterns, and natural patterns. These patterns were presented by print, dyeing, and embroidery; lastly, the employment, utilization, function, and adjustment of Obi(belt) to Japanese style clothing and also to modern clothing. Japanism fashion presented sportism, feminism, and eroticism by using mix and match. This analysis can contribute to the application of the ethnic clothing to modern clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.593-608
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• 2023

This study attempted to classify the types of perceptions of the new Hanbok, focusing on female college students in their 20s, and to analyze the characteristics of each type. This study was conducted with the Q methodology and analyzed with the QUANL pc program. The perceptions of the new Hanbok among female college students in their 20s were classified into four types: Type 1: modern/practical, Type 2: convenient/practical, Type 3: temporary/accessible, and Type 4: convenient/traditional. Type 1 emphasized the selection of Western clothing fabric, matching zipper/buttons, and achromatic colors. Type 2 highlighted a design that can be worn as daily clothing by combining materials that are convenient for laundering. Type 3 stressed the operation of new Hanbok rental stores so that it is easy to access and accept new Hanboks in old palaces and Hanok villages. Type 4 required the development of a design that reflects the elements of the traditional Hanbok and is convenient for activity and laundering.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1012-1026
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• 2023

This study used the Q-methodology to identify and categorize the types of subjective perceptions of Korean hanbok among foreigners currently living in Korea, and to explore the characteristics of each type. We used the QUANL PC program to analyze the data. We categorized foreigners' perceptions of hanbok into three types. The first type comprised the "hanbok experience novice tradition affirming" individuals who thought hanbok was beautiful, affirming Korean culture and traditional clothing. They encountered hanbok for the first time upon arriving in Korea. The second type was the "design preference positive change". These individuals thought hanbok's design was beautiful and belived Korea's image improved because of hanbok. The third type was the "change-seeking tradition negative". This group believed that hanbok was not traditional Korean clothing and required modernizing. The first category comprised mostly individuals from Nepal, the second category was Myanmar, and the third category was China. Thus, different nationalities have different perceptions of hanbok. Future research should explore how foreigners from diverse nationalities perceive hanbok and coduct a comparative analysis based on nationality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.195-210
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• 1992

The present research analyzed the social meaning of Korean clothing in women's magazine. The data were included the advertisements and publicity related to Korean clothing in two women's magazines and condensed at 5 year intervals with content analysis. The identified 276 advertisements and publicity were categorized into four areas. The categories were the trend of exterior growth of advertisements and publicity, appeals and approach, the elements of advertisements and publicity including background, the relation of models, situations, and styles of Korean clothing over times. The results of the study were as Follows: 1. In conjunction with external growth of advertisements and publicity of Korean clothing, the social meaning of Korean clothing has changed from ceremonial clothing to daily-wear clothing. Especially since 1980, the theme of advertisement and publicity of Korean clothing were changed form the beauty of traditional Korean clothing such as grace of dignity to the individuality which was the typical value of western Clothing. 2. The trends of appeals related to Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing have reflected the changing time and society. Since 1980, the emotional or mixed approach with metaphor have increased, whereas factual or situational approach were dominated in 1960s and 1970s. 3. The styles including silhouette, detail, textile and pattern of Korean clothing and applied Korean clothing also reflected the changing trends of Korean society. Especially since 1980, the applied style of Korean clothing has adopted the trends of western clothing. Implications for the future research were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.1-16
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• 2007

The study aimed to develop the nightgown considering the construction and design features of the Shimui and the Cheolik. The analysis on the construction features of the Korean traditional costume and the physiological and motional attributes while sleeping resulted into the construction factors of the nightgown developed in the study. Consequently, the nightgown having these traditional Korean costume features were made for the evaluation. 4 different types of nightgowns were designed to be constructed. 20 professional clothing staff evaluated these 4 nightgowns developed and the existing nightgown used in the hotel industry. The results from the wearing test evaluation were: (1) to consider the stable closure of the gowns while wearing, the scores of the gowns developed were higher than the existing one. (2) the evaluations of the wearing comfort of the standing posture for the gowns developed and the existed were more or less similar but considering the lying down posture, the scores of the developed ones were significantly higher. (3) the gowns developed to have the wide-ham lines were considered more appropriate to the leg movement compared to the existing gown. The results from the fit and appearance test evaluation were: (1) throughout the all hight levels, the means of the gowns developed were higher than the existing gown's means in the most of the evaluation questions. (2) in the evaluation of the Korean traditional features, the gowns developed were more appropriate than the existing one. Consequently, the gowns developed were considered better to compare to the existing one in the context of postures, movements, comfort, appearance, fit, and design features.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.151-166
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• 2013

This study aims to shed light on the diversity and complexity of design represented through modern fashion and to identify growth opportunities for globalizing and modernizing traditional clothing designs. To this end, formative trends and aesthetic characteristics of $21^{st}$ century fashion were analyzed, with an emphasis on Japanism reflected in the works of Western designers. The research methodology consisted of an analysis as well as a literature review. A total of 217 designs with Japanism characteristics were identified from the 2001 S/S collection to the 2011 S/S collection in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, and these were analyzed in terms of image, color details, pattern, and accessories. The research findings with regard to the characteristics of modern fashion designs that reflect Japanism were as follows. First, sensuality was projected by highlighting the erotic elements of Japanese clothing. Second, the underlying principles, styles, and elements of Japan's traditional clothing were embodied in a cross-cultural and eclectic manner that blurred the boundaries between styles by mix-and- matching the traditional and the contemporary, the East and the West, and different styles. Third, a variety of patterns, colors, accessories, and design techniques associated with Japanese traditional clothing played a critical role in creating flamboyant and decorative images in contemporary fashion. Fourth, the overlapping of the kimono style, the flat design that accentuates body curves, and the layered style has created a beautifully free-form fashion that demonstrates non-structural features.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2006

The objectives of this study were to investigate physiological and psychological responses to the rustling sound of Korean traditional silk fabrics and to figure out objective measurements such as sound parameters and mechanical properties determining the human responses. Five different traditional silk fabrics were selected by cluster analysis and their sound characteristics were observed in terms of FFT spectra and some calculated sound parameters including level pressure of total sound (LPT), Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters - loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z), and sound color factors such as ${\Delta}L\;and\;{\Delta}f$. As physiological signals, the ratio of low frequency to high frequency (LF/HF) from the power spectrum of heart rate variability, pulse volume (PV), heart rate (HR), and skin conductance level (SCL) evoked by the fabric sounds were measured from thirty participants. Also, seven aspects of psychological state including softness, loudness, sharpness, roughness, clearness, highness, and pleasantness were evaluated when each sound was presented. The traditional silk fabric sounds were likely to be felt as soft and pleasant rather than clear and high, which seemed to evoke less change of both LF/HF and SCL indicating a negative sensation than other fabrics previously reported. As fluctuation strength(Z) were higher and bending rigidity (B) values lower, the fabrics tended to be perceived as sounding softer, which resulted in increase of PV changes. The higher LPT was concerned with higher rating for subjective loudness so that HR was more increased. Also, compression linearity (LC) affected subjective pleasantness positively, which caused less changes of HR. Therefore, we concluded that such objective measurements as LPT, fluctuation strength(Z), bending rigidity (B), and compression linearity (LC) were significant factors affecting physiological and psychological responses to the sounds of Korean traditional silk fabrics.