• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제15권3호
• /
• pp.481-490
• /
• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제39권8호
• /
• pp.137-154
• /
• 2001

This study was made to draft the tight fitting bodice pattern which horizontal and perpendicular stands are to be lightly set, with the consideration of characteristics of body shape in design of clothes. Measurement of body was conducted on 53 women in twenties, and observation was made on surface development pattern by adhesive tape addition method and gypsum method on three standard objects. In the study, bodice pattern was completed by using already made Somato- measurer, compared with existing bodice pattern, and the results are as follows. The result of the correlation analysis by body measurement shows that chest circumference has a relation to B$.$P-front neck point, side neck point, shoulder point, front interscye breadth point, and the item in spine scapulae point has relation to the item of back neck line, and front & back horizontal values. The degree of shoulder slant, width of armhole and of its depth, the amount of breast, back space, back length were shown to be directly measured from the body. In surface development pattern, tight-fit bodice pattern necessary to the breast volume and back space were shown to be investigated and these volume have to be given in setting up basic line for clothes design together with body measurement value. The result of sensory evaluation for appearance test on fitness shows higher value of research bodice including line of shoulder line, front and back interscye breadth, chest circumference, waist circumference, armhole circumference and of its depth, compared with the research bodice in most items. The result of this study is seen showing high effectiveness for the basic data to design the ready-made dress of high sensitivity of high value added tat.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제23권4호
• /
• pp.149-166
• /
• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권5호
• /
• pp.676-682
• /
• 2008

In this study a guideline of the 3D-fit pattern for the ECG(electrocardiogram) measurement of elderly's u-healthcare clothes was proposed. In the screening test of the ECG measurement band, ECG peak band was observable at the band pressure of 0.20 kPa. By employing a 3D body image, tight-fit 3D patterns were made at two different reduction rates of 21%(pattern 1) and 33%(pattern 2), and corresponding pressure of both of the clothes were 0.25 kPa and 0.54 kPa, respectively. Typical waves of ECG were found in both stationary and moving position. In terms of the subjective evaluation of the u-healthcare clothes when worn, it was confirmed that reduction pattern 1(0.25 kPa) conveyed comfortable clothing pressure and pleasantness, which is very close to the result of screening test of ECG band experiment. As results, it is recommended that reduction rate should be adjusted, so that clothing pressure is about 0.2 kPa for the elderly's comfortable and efficient u-healthcare clothes.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권9_10호
• /
• pp.1359-1368
• /
• 2005

When we develop the tight-fit 2D pattern from the 3D scan data, segmentation of the 3D scan data into several parts is necessary to make a curved surface into a flat plane. In this study, Garland's method of triangle simplification was adopted to reduce the number of data point without distorting the original shape. The Runge-Kutta method was applied to make triangular patch from the 3D surface in a 2D plane. We also explored the detailed arrangement method of small 2D patches to make a tight-fit pattern for a male body. As results, minimum triangle numbers in the simplification process and efficient arrangement methods of many pieces were suggested for the optimal 2D pattern development. Among four arrangement methods, a block method is faster and easier when dealing with the triangle patches of male's upper body. Anchoring neighboring vertices of blocks to make 2D pattern was observed to be a reasonable arrangement method to get even distribution of stress in a 2D plane.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제15권5호
• /
• pp.791-802
• /
• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권1호
• /
• pp.68-79
• /
• 2009

It is inevitable to have cutting line to get the 2D pattern from 3D body surface. In this paper the efficiency of curvature plot as a cutting line in the process of flattening 3D surface was investigated. As reference, basic clothing construction line was adopted to divide the 3D surface into small blocks to make the flattening process easy. Female dummy as well as human body were scanned and surface of the upper body was segmented using curvature plot and basic constructing line. 2D tight-fit pattern was developed using three software, the RapidForm 2004, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD. Gap between clothes and body, and the clothing pressure on the body was observed to determine the fit of the clothes. As results, clothes constructed with blocks divided by curvature plot displayed a similar level of tight fit as compared with those by basic construction line. It was found that curvature plot is effective method as a segmentation of the 3D surface even for the actual body which does not have any previous reference line. It is expected that application of curvature plot will be expanded in 3D apparel technology.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제41권1호
• /
• pp.43-59
• /
• 2017

This study used data from a survey of adult Korean women in their twenties to learn their current practices for wearing and purchasing tight-fit jeans available on the market as well as perceptions regarding size measurements and satisfaction levels. We then determined product sizes and pattern measurements for the type of jeans worn. This study also analyzed discrepancies in product size measurements among brands to determine whether the measurements were generally suitable for average body shapes and measurements of women in their twenties. The study results were as follows. First, the survey asked women in their twenties about current practices in wearing jeans. Many respondents answered that their preferred fit is "a perfectly snug fit" and that the most common fit style of jeans was the skinny fit. Second, we selected a test pair of jeans with an identical fiber content from brands that women prefer to wear, according to the survey results. We researched the product measurements of the size respectively labeled 27 inches for each of the 8 brands' test jeans; consequently, the results showed that there were significant differences among the brands in the product measurements of each part of jeans. Third, we analyzed the pattern measurements of 8 selected brands for each area and identified pattern characteristics by brand.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권1호
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2020

This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.115-126
• /
• 2008

The construction of an athlete's tight-fitting garments is very important to the wearer in terms of athletic performance. Therefore pattern development of tight-fitting garments must allow for the full range of human movement and postures. In this study the relationship between the construction of a skate pants pattern and clothing fitting was explored with the aim of improving the comfort of the clothing. The four male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on four consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Results showed differences in the front-rise length and back-rise length between basic pants(A) and modified pants(B,C,D) were -5.16cm and +5.64cm. Comparing the basic pants pattern(A) with modified pants pattern(B), the latter was superior to basic pants(A) in terms of pressure sensation and closeness of fit, but there was no significant difference. Among the four tight-fitting skate pants, A and B pants were superior to the others in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip sections. In the case of the skate pants, the number of cutting lines in the pattern had an influence on clothing comfort. A minimum cutting line for tight skate pants was better than a maximum cutting line in terms of clothing comfort.