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Chinoiserie in the Eighteenth-Century Rococo Fashion (18세기 로코코 패션에 나타난 시누아즈리[Chinoiserie])

  • Shin Jooyoung;Kim Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.13-31
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    • 2006
  • This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

A Study on the Entertaining Expressions in the Spaced for Entertainment - With a Focus on the Club Environment - (엔터테이먼트 공간에 나타나는 유희적 표현에 관한 연구 - 클럽 공간을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Hye-Hyun;Yoon, Gab-Geun;Mun, Hyok;Seo, Su-Mi
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.42-50
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    • 2011
  • In the 21st century, people began to pay more attention on the culture, and the chances for them to participate in the cultural lives also increased. The spaces for entertainments can also be deemed as the center of the cultural contents. The entertainment is, in consideration of its definition by the literal meaning and the origin of the word itself, 'an act that entertains, or any artificial creation that is designed to give entertainment with a view to relieve the subjects from the burdens they have as they live.'Of the modem entertainment spaces, the one with the most profound visual manifestation of the entertainment element is the club. The purpose of this study is to examine the influence from the entertaining element manifested in the club spaces. Only until a few years back, the club spaces were deemed with negative impressions that comes with the more negative side of the entertaining world. But, recently such negative impressions are lift off considerably, and the club spaces are regarded with positive impressions as to be the kind of place where the young people can enjoy performances and other kind of culture in healthy atmosphere. In Chapter 2, we will examine the entertainment and the nature of the pleasure it gives, as well as the correlation between the entertaining environments and the pleasure they give. In chapter 3, the entertaining elements within such contexts are classified into the experience, form, color, objects, and the lightings and examine the characteristics of each of them. Also, the influences of these elements to the entertaining environment will be reviewed. In the case study in chapter 4, 9 overseas and domestic club spaces that were introduced in 'Interior World' magazines, that is, in the issues that are focused on 'Entertainment,'such as Issue 59, 68, and 79. As a result of the analysis, the influences of the entertaining, or pleasing, elements were discovered. The particular expression characteristics of the pleasing designs in the club spaces are, namely, the form elements, material elements, color elements, objects elements, and the lighting elements. As the society changes and the cultural level goes up, the club spaces are required to adopt more changes. Therefore, the pleasing elements of the space should receive further emphasis. These elements will act as a trend in the space and make the people appreciate the space more refreshing.

Analysis of Evolutionary Content in High School Biology Textbook (고등학교 생물 교과서에서의 진화내용분석)

  • Kim, Hak-Hyun;Chang, Nam-Kee
    • Journal of The Korean Association For Science Education
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    • v.23 no.5
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    • pp.470-483
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    • 2003
  • This study analyzed the evolutionary content in 13 textbooks developed from the first to the 6th high school biology curriculum, The content analysis of textbooks, which were delineated nine component, was performed on the 80 evolutionary categories, According to the result, the proportion of the total evolutionary content in textbook increased from the textbooks developed by the Ist curriculum to the textbooks developed by the 6th curriculum, but the proportion of 'main narrative' in total evolutionary content was gradually decreased. It also showed that biology curriculum and points of view of textbook writers influenced on the proportion of evolutionary contents. On the whole, the topics of analysed textbooks exhibit insufficient diversity, Any categories- 'group selection', 'gene selection', 'gaps in fossil record', 'co-evolution', 'punctuated equilibrium', 'mosaic evolution', 'place of labor in human evolution', 'human race differentiation', 'criticism of "ontogeny recapitulates phylogeny", and 'human activities affecting evolution' - were not treated and others - 'theory of neutralism', 'theories of major episodes(excepting extinctions) found in the geologic time scale', 'sympatric speciation', 'clinal and area-effect speciation', 'polyploidy and evolution', 'gradualism' and 'evolution and origin of mammals' - were treated very lightly, the most emphasized topic was 'phylogeny in general' and 'formation of precells', 'miscellaneous' in the order of emphasis. 'Theory of natural selection' was lightly treated as just one of evolutionary theory though it should be emphasized as major theme of evolution. Also, the law of recapitulation, of which biologists doubt the validity, was discussed as an evidence of evolution in some textbooks. And the agents of genetic equilibrium disruption like genetic drift and migration were treated as of little importance. On the basis of above result, it was suggested that the textbook writers introduced the more meaningful evolutionary topics focused the theory of natural selection in explanation of evolution and evolution theory.

The Effects of Cinema Costumes on Fashion -Based onEdith Head's Work- (영화예술에 나타난 의상이 유행에 미친영향 - Edith Head의 영화 의상을 중심으로 -)

  • 이정희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.31
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    • pp.145-164
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    • 1997
  • Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

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A Multi-Wavelength Study of Galaxy Transition in Different Environments (다파장 관측 자료를 이용한 다양한 환경에서의 은하 진화 연구)

  • Lee, Gwang-Ho
    • The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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    • v.43 no.1
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    • pp.34.2-35
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    • 2018
  • Galaxy transition from star-forming to quiescent, accompanied with morphology transformation, is one of the key unresolved issues in extragalactic astronomy. Although several environmental mechanisms have been proposed, a deeper understanding of the impact of environment on galaxy transition still requires much exploration. My Ph.D. thesis focuses on which environmental mechanisms are primarily responsible for galaxy transition in different environments and looks at what happens during the transition phase using multi-wavelength photometric/spectroscopic data, from UV to mid-infrared (MIR), derived from several large surveys (GALEX, SDSS, and WISE) and our GMOS-North IFU observations. Our multi-wavelength approach provides new insights into the *late* stages of galaxy transition with a definition of the MIR green valley different from the optical green valley. I will present highlights from three areas in my thesis. First, through an in-depth study of environmental dependence of various properties of galaxies in a nearby supercluster A2199 (Lee et al. 2015), we found that the star formation of galaxies is quenched before the galaxies enter the MIR green valley, which is driven mainly by strangulation. Then, the morphological transformation from late- to early-type galaxies occurs in the MIR green valley. The main environmental mechanisms for the morphological transformation are galaxy-galaxy mergers and interactions that are likely to happen in high-density regions such as galaxy groups/clusters. After the transformation, early-type MIR green valley galaxies keep the memory of their last star formation for several Gyr until they move on to the next stage for completely quiescent galaxies. Second, compact groups (CGs) of galaxies are the most favorable environments for galaxy interactions. We studied MIR properties of galaxies in CGs and their environmental dependence (Lee et al. 2017), using a sample of 670 CGs identified using a friends-of-friends algorithms. We found that MIR [3.4]-[12] colors of CG galaxies are, on average, bluer than those of cluster galaxies. As CGs are located in denser regions, they tend to have larger early-type galaxy fractions and bluer MIR color galaxies. These trends can also be seen for neighboring galaxies around CGs. However, CG members always have larger early-type fractions and bluer MIR colors than their neighboring galaxies. These results suggest that galaxy evolution is faster in CGs than in other environments and that CGs are likely to be the best place for pre-processing. Third, post-starburst galaxies (PSBs) are an ideal laboratory to investigate the details of the transition phase. Their spectra reveal a phase of vigorous star formation activity, which is abruptly ended within the last 1 Gyr. Numerical simulations predict that the starburst, and thus the current A-type stellar population, should be localized within the galaxy's center (< kpc). Yet our GMOS IFU observations show otherwise; all five PSBs in our sample have Hdelta absorption line profiles that extend well beyond the central kpc. Most interestingly, we found a negative correlation between the Hdelta gradient slopes and the fractions of the stellar mass produced during the starburst, suggesting that stronger starbursts are more centrally-concentrated. I will discuss the results in relation with the origin of PSBs.

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Development of horticultural program on community garden for social integration and communication in multicultural societies (다문화 시대의 사회통합과 소통을 위한 공동체정원에서의 원예활동 프로그램 개발)

  • Jang, Eu Jean
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Floral Art and Design
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    • no.37
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    • pp.33-48
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    • 2017
  • This study examines garden activity and garden plant preferences for development of the garden activity program using community garden aimed for communication and integration for multicultural age. As a result, for members of multicultural society had high portion of floral arrangement and crafts, growing plants in both indoors and outdoors garden for their garden activities, and using plants for cooking, growing plants in both indoors and outdoors garden was of higher portion for native korean. In the garden plant preferences, members of multicultural society liked ornamental plants the best, due to the environmental correspondence between the plant's place of origin and their home country, while native koreans tend to prefer vegetables, reflecting the recent interest in pro-environment crops and rise in demand of urban farming, veranda gardening and weekend farming. In this study, the garden activity program for communication and integration categorized the value of garden activity into three categories; the value of respect for life, the value of consideration through caring, the value of plant ethics, based on the above preference results. The value of respect for life can be achieved by understanding the meaning of life, experiencing the will to live, and understanding the characteristics of plants and me. The value of consideration of caring comes from waiting and nurturing for living things that are different from me and adapting to the environment as a living The value of plant ethics can give us the insights for human relationships, by understanding and experiencing the natural ecosystem and plant co-existing in it. The eight-session garden activity program also went through validity verification process by experts on gardening and multiculture, and the effectiveness of the program was proved.

Verification Study on the Treasure #634 of Silla Face-Inlaid Glass Bead: Focusing on the Design and Cultural Symbolic Elements (보물 제634호 신라 인면 상감 유리구슬의 검증 연구: 디자인과 문화 상징요소를 중심으로)

  • Misuk Choi;Hyo Jeong Lee;Youngjoo Na
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.71-92
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    • 2023
  • This study investigates the symbolism and meaning of the bead design, its relationship with the Silla culture, and the conditions of glass bead manufacturing to verify the theory of Silla's production of Silla face-inlaid glass beads with excellent artistry and technology. The research method includes investigating the design analysis, ancient documents, myths, relics, glass, and metal production techniques. Moreover, Hongshan cultural relics and other cases of inlaid glass beads were collected. There are records in the literature that the people of Makhan, Buyeo and Silla of ancient Korea people considered beads as treasures and used them for accessories. It was confirmed that all the design elements of the bead-patterned hair topknot, golden crown, birds, and flower trees were closely related to the myth of Kim Al-ji of Silla, the oviparous tales and the sacred birds and divine beasts of the north. Moreover, the pattern and arrangements were found to be similar in other Silla relics. The origin of beads and face pendants was Hongsan culture, and a stone cast for beads was discovered in Bukpyo of Gojoseon, the lower-level culture of Hajiajeom. In addition, excavating inlaid glass beads from Sik-ri tombs of Korea and a face-inlaid glass bead from Toganmori tombs in Japan confirms the theory of Silla's production. The fact that the Baekje people of ancient Korea had a glass bead manufacturing office in Japan in the fifth centuries suggests that the Silla people also had a manufacturing plant in Java, Indonesia, because this place was a crossroads of Silla's Sea Silk Road and a source of raw materials and labors with a close relationship to Silla. Therefore, the face-inlaid glass bead was indeed self-made by Silla, who possessed the tradition of bead myths and hair topknot, and the high-level skills such as gold crowns and metal inlays.

A Study on the Family communication and Power in Functional View. (가족의 커뮤니케이션과 勸力에 관한 기능적 이론의 접근)

  • 조은경
    • Journal of Families and Better Life
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.127-144
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    • 1987
  • The purpose of this study is to explore the family communication and power. Communication is a symbolic, transactional process in functional view . To say tat communication is a process implies a continuous interaction of an indefinite large number of variables with a concomitant, continuous change in the values taken by these variables. Finally the process implies change. Family functions include the primary functions of cohesion and adaptability and supporting functions of family images, themes, boundaries, and biosocial issues, The primary functions reveal concepts integrated family interaction and supporting functions, along with those of cohesion and adaptability, give shape of family life. The message system is the major element of communication process and influences both the form and the content of thier relationship and create and share meanings. The family-of-origin issues influence all aspects of family communication and account for many of the communication patterns, rules and networks. Power does not belong to an individual. rather it is a property of a relationship between two or more persons, Power, a system property is the ability of an individual to change the behavior of other members in a social system. Power operate transactionally in a family and any power maneuvers within it have a system wide effect. In order to study power in families , it is necessary to examine 1) family power operations 2) development of family power and 3) the communication of power strutegies. The research presented indicated that a rigid power structure, characterized by dominance and little sharing, restricts family flexibility reduce cohesion, and adversely affects satisfaction in families. power constantly changes as a family grows and develops within its system. Although power changes may be more obvious in children as they mature and more from a independent stated to an independent one, each of the parents experience egual or greater. Communication and activities take place that either enhance positively or negatively the images, themes, and degree of unity of cohesion the family desires. Power operated within a dynamic, growing, changing, interdependent transactional family system. Power struggle may develop when as issue becomes important to one or more family member. When this happens, and the rational exploration of alternatives ceases, various one-up power maneuvers usally follows, This affect family intimacy. a vital element in meaningful relationships . To resolve differences and not become the victim of another's power , one need to engage in constructive conflict since the ability to clearly and comfortably repudiate another is part of the achievement of intimacy.

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The Distribution of Vascular Plants Recorded in the Hangul Tripitaka (한글대장경에 기록된 관속식물의 분포)

  • Park, Hee-Jun;Paik, Weon-Ki
    • Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.576-587
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this research is to classify various plants written in the Korean Buddhist scriptures and assign scientific name to them in accordance with the Hangul Tripitaca as standard scriptures, thereby establishing the foundation of the plants in Buddhist scriptures. As a natural resource, we also assessed the value of the plants written in the Buddhist scriptures that distributed from other countries. To this end, we inferred the route of introduction to Korea of the plants and investigated their function and usage. Taxonomic classification of the plants written in Buddhist scriptures identified a total of 331 taxa belonging to 107 families, 244 genera, 313 species, 1 subspecies, 16 varieties, 1 forms. Species composition of the 331 taxa of plants consisted of two taxa of pteridophyte, 15 taxa of gymnosperm, 261 taxa of dicotyledon, and 53 taxa of monocotyledon. Among them, 183 and 148 were woody and herbaceous plants, respectively. Analysis of the distribution of 331 kinds of plants that India's portion of origin of place is 8.9% which holds a low rank compared with those of Korea (10.5%), China (10.9%), and Japan (10.0%). This explains why many taxa of plants distributed from the three countries appeared in the Hangul Tripitaca. Accordingly, we hypothesized that the majority of the plants were added and replaced at some point in past while Buddhist scriptures were propagated from India to China and from China to Korea. Our analysis indicated that 119 out of the 331 taxa (36 %) were distributed from Korea.

Quality Characteristics of Firm Tofu Made from Various Soybeans (콩 원료에 따른 일반 두부의 품질 비교)

  • Sim, Eun-Yeong;Lee, Yu Young;Park, Hye-Young;Choi, Hye-Sun;Kwak, Jieun;Kim, Mijung;Kim, Hong-Sik;Kim, Jin-Sook
    • The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.710-720
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    • 2020
  • This study was conducted to compare the quality characteristics of firm tofu (coagulant calcium chloride, CaCl2 used) made from eight imported and four domestic soybeans selling in Korean markets. The 100-seed weight of soybeans imported from China and Seonpung cultivated in Korea was the highest at 33.23 g and 32.51 g, respectively. Soybeans imported from the USA (bulk type) showed the lowest at 16.12 g, followed by Ukraine at 16.94 g, and Brazil at 18.51 g. The range of protein and fat in the 12 soybeans was 37.08~41.36% and 18.35~22.17%, respectively. The isoflavone contents were the highest in Daepung2 cultivated in Korea at 3,764.10 ㎍/g and the lowest in soybeans imported from Brazil at 1,439.85 ㎍/g. Tofu yield among the samples was in the following order: Seonpung (235.2%), China (232.0%) Daepung2 (228.7%), Daechan (225.7%), and Brazil (208%). Tofu made with soybeans cultivated in Korea (including from China) showed a higher yield compared to that made from soybeans from seven other countries. In the analysis of the correlation of quality factors of tofu, the hardness of the tofu was correlated with 100-seed weight (r=0.676⁎) and protein content of the soybeans (r=0.837⁎⁎). Tofu yield was correlated with 100-seed weight (r=0.748⁎⁎) and protein content of the soybeans (r=0.583⁎).