• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.126-156
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.84-93
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyse the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism in the 20th century. Human beings started to ask themselves questions about their nature and existence by undergoing two world wars in the 20th century. Existentialism was born out of these philosophical thoughts and in particular, French existentialists led the public discourse of the time and expressed their philosophical thoughts and ideas through black fashion. Therefore we revealed the existentialistic meanings of black by studying the French existentialist ideology and their black fashion. The thoughts of existentialism became popularized in France by French philosophers. Sartre especially played a big role in the popularization of existentialism in France. The black fashion worn by existentialists became popularized along with the ideology that it expressed. Sartre's thoughts on existentialism are summarized in existence Precedes Essence, self-reliance, and engagement. From these, the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism was analogized to resistant image, nihilistic image and self-reliance image.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.51-63
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the symbolic meaning in 20th century men’s fashion through analyzing of social environment factors. After recent industrial society, men had expressed their privilege, prestige and social power according to fashion. Men's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century was emerged as the images of robustness and strictness with perfect cutting, thick and stick fabric and dark color that were influenced by british style. It was symbolic meaning of authority orientation which showed the superiorities of social and sex classes. It was beginning of change according to social phenomena. The world war Ⅰ,Ⅱ and change of lifestyle by material affluence in automobile industry mollified rules of men's fashion. It showed a serenity of living. Also, the growth of young culture changed trickle-down of men's fashion into bottom-up and showed opposition for elite culture in fashion. These change particularly became acceleration by Individualism, open-society and the collapse of sex class. Men expressed sexual and inherent desire for fashion that was no longer concerned with symbolizing of authority but rather with pleasure pursuit.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.511-522
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• 2001

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2004

This study is to propose the minimalism, which swept the modern society of the 20th century, in fashion illustration with an asymmetric composition adding the globalized oriental taste in the 21th century. To do this, this study reviews various literatures and real materials reflecting the minimalism in art, architecture and fashion, defines aesthetic characteristics of the minimalism in each area, then based on the results, creates a basic unit of a fashion illustration and finally bring 6 works of the unit together to an integral fashion illustration while adding several oriental features.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.25-37
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• 2005

This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1619-1628
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to compare and contrast the changes in wedding coordination between the end of 20th and the beginning 21st centuries. one wedding magazine was selected and used to supply data. four hundred and thirty one wedding photos were examined from a popular wedding magazine called "My Wedding", issued between 1993 and 2007. the results are described below. First, changes in make-up and hair style: from the end of 20th to the beginning of 21 st centuries, the style of make-up changed from being exaggerated with strong colors which made the typical brides make-up to utilizing the minimal color selection which made natural-looking. the hair style has also changed from up style to natural hair style. Second, changes in wedding gowns: the style of wedding gowns changed from the shapes of X line which was to cover the body figure of bride to simple shapes such as an strapless and fish-tail style of gowns. Third, changes in wedding jewelry and accessories: hair pieces consisted of large flower crowns and hair bands with flowers in the end of 20th century. the various sizes and colors of tiaras and crowns were popular in the beginning of 21 st century. for wedding accessories, large shapes of earrings and necklaces were popular at the end of 20th century, whereas various size and styles were more fashionable later on. in conclusion, brides in the beginning of 21 st century prefer to wear sexy or alluring dresses with natural hair styles and make-up, in contrast to the classic or traditional wedding outfits that were more popular at the end of 20th century.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.135-143
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• 2006

The definition of the 'Pocket', according to the Korean encyclopedia, is an accessory that a person puts in small belongings or money and carry on waist or holds with a hand. Since the pockets were not attached to the clothes at that period of time, the portable bag or pocket had been used without distinction of age or sex for carrying personal belongings. The pocket in France was also used in a similar manner, where it was used as a handbag to carry purse, comb, or a key by women during the middle ages. The pockets were decorated, made of quality material such as velvet, silk, or satin with splendid embroidery or beads. This study closely examines the history of the pocket from late 16th century around Renaissance to early 20th century in France and during the mid Cho-Sun dynasty in Korea and compares the different kinds of patterns, symbolism, and the purpose of the pockets. In addition, the relationships between the pockets, belongings, and ornament are examined as well by thoroughly investigating the unique characteristics of the pocket of each country.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.