• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2003

This is a study that examines the fashion changes in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. Starting from defining the concept and the developing process of subculture, this study traces the history of subcultural styles from 1930s to 1990s, focusing on the way each generation resisted the main stream through its styles. This study is intended to provide a theoretical frame on the understanding of subcultural styles, with a close examination of its formative and developing process and characteristics. This study understands subcultural style as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity, and, as a result, realizes in the form of fashion its repressed subconsciousness, resistance to the alienation from the society, and deviation from the normative ethics and morality of a society. The four types of subcultural styles presented in chapter 4 are based on their form of resistance, and they are classified and analyzed as follows: The first type is revision, which tries to revise and change the given form by adding new elements. There are two kinds of revision, one is dressing up, which dresses for success, and the other is minimal dressing. Hyperbole is the second type, which resists by emphasizing or hyperbolizing the main stream with its erotic, nihilistic, or dynamic forms. Two kinds of hyperbole are examined, one is hyperbole of masculinity, and the other is ostentatious hyperbole. The third type is reversal and rejection, which reverses the forms from the established sign system into its own secret code, or rejects the traditional taboos. This type include no dressing, and the reversal of sex identity. Isolation and redrawal is the fourth type, which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day. This type is divided into dressing of the escape from time, and dressing of the escape from space. The first group of this type is characterized by nostalgia or futurism. An emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space. In conclusion, it can be said that subcultural style puts the foremost importance on individual freedom. Since 1990s, the distinction between the subcultural styles and high fashion gets somewhat blurred, while the liberal, sexual, life stylistic tension between the two groups are heightened.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.47-58
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• 2000

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Soma Delaunay's works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration, One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Soma Delaunay's art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts"are among the earliest example of the aesthete. In Delaunay's geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of"simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. colour as well as collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity, Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.rant breadth of the execution.

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2006년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.109-114
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• 2006

The world has become one united world so that it is worthless to divide it into two; the East and West. In the 20th century, eastern perspectives proliferated in western science involving theology, philosophy and psychotherapy. In this time of various trends of ideas emerged minimalism, artistic and cultural current seeking simplicity and conciseness. This current of idea appeared about the time of World War II in visual art, and then expanded to other fields like music, architecture, fashion and philosophy in diverse forms. Minimalism is also presented in interior space with extreme form of simplicity and detail, revealing parts of the space as delicate and pure style with emphasis on purity of the space itself. In this research, demonstrate clear features of eastern view of space appeared in minimalism of interior design mainly in America. The reason the scope of study is limited to America is that America is the origin of minimal art and has been hub of modern design since the 1930s. The research, first, finds out the origin and conceptual idea of minimalism and features of eastern view of space. Based on this understanding, further study has been carried to discover relation of minimalistic interior space to eastern view of space and to analyze eastern characteristic expressed in minimalistic space by examination of cases pertaining to commercial space.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제33권
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• pp.53-75
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• 2013

It is well-known that Chinese saw themselves as the centre of the world until the early 20th century. Since the Opium War 1840, however, belong to the 'general world' the past century. The Opium War made China break away from the Sinocentric spirit. This writing(essay) examines movies from China and the World concern the historical event 'the Opium War.' It also discusses desires that are inherent in narration of each movie and how accord with the real world. The movie The Opium War(1997) directed by XieJin is a work that intended: to wash off the memory of history of disgrace and; to successfully put a disparate piece, Hong Kong, of a puzzle named China together. The Japanese movie Wànshìliúfāng(1943)and The Opium War(1943) were also made for the victory of the Pacific War. They were part of project for uniting the domestic Japan and the colonial outlands - Manchuria and Joseon - that reenacted humiliating history of China, which had been the suzerain of the East Asia The Korean movie The Opium War(1964) was not recalled due to the demand for a lesson from China's painful history, but was recreated by imitating Hong Kong, into where capitalism was transplanted through the Opium War before Korea. History is eventually recalled to the present and the histories, that each different present invokes, are recreated in respective fashion. From their plan to wash off the history of disgrace and successfully return Hong Kong to its native country, China, Japan, and Korea portrayed China, once their cultural suzerain, as impotent East Asia. From their proposition that they should resist the present enemy, the West, together, they imitated the west of the East, which lead the way to achieve modernity. Finally, from their ambition to deviate from their status as developing country, they recalled and reorganized the history, the Opium War.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1309-1321
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• 2008

Military style is not limited to a single period but represents various image communications related to items, synthetic images and different periodical culture backgrounds. The purpose of this study is to define the communicational function of the military style beginning from the 1st world war up to the modern days, and furthermore explain the characteristics and contents of military styles in different periods by studying the nowadays various symbols of the military style in denotative and connotative aspects. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic paper, and examined masters' and doctors' thesis, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the internet. As a result, first, the military style is a significant fashion code in understanding modern fashion by serving as a strong communication function representing people’s ritual through various image items called the 'military look'. Second, the meaning of the image communication through military look changed throughout the different periods. During the 1st and 2nd World war the military look supported Fascism by serving as a media representing extreme patriotism and at the same time social images like functionalism, women liberation, regulation and saving. During the cold war period it was used by young progressives like hippies and punks to send an opposing message towards war and commercialism. Since then up to the 80s it was a medium representing the ‘new role of women’, who possess same social rights and power as the men. However in the 90s the military style had to go through a paradigm transition period. Since this period it got affected by the post modernism and designers, consumers alike adopted military style to create unique beauty It can also be said that it began to be used as a pure fashion code representing intertextuality. It was rather expressed as a metonymy than a metaphor and combined with elegance and feminine factor, which contrasts to the original military concept, it now represents totally new hybrids such as difference, dissemination and varieties.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.58-65
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• 2021

몸을 치장하기 위한 오브제는 인류가 시작된 원시시대부터 아주 중요한 문화였다. 사회적 지위나 부의 상징물, 또는 개인적 치장을 위한 장신구는 장식성, 화폐성, 희소성, 역사성 등의 다양한 특성을 지니며 발전해왔다. 그러나 귀중함을 중시하는 전통보다 지적 개념이 더욱 가치 있었던 20세기 후반부터 장신구 분야는 예술적 활동과 미적가치를 중요하게 생각하면서 작가중심의 표현주의적 성향을 가지게 되었다. 이와 같이 현대 장신구는 소재나 기술을 강조하던 전통적인 방식에서 벗어나 하나의 예술장르로 발전하였다. 이러한 표현주의적 성향은 예술성을 강조하면서 1960년대부터 장신구만을 위한 갤러리들이 생기기 시작하였고, 특히 이시기부터 전통적 방식에서 벗어난 실험적이고 혁신적인 많은 장신구 작품들이 전시되었다. 이처럼 장신구 전문 갤러리의 등장은 장신구가 예술의 한 장르로 발전하는데 큰 영향을 주었다. 이번 연구에서는 장신구를 전시하는 데 있어 인체와 의상의 결합을 통한 두 가지 전시유형의 연구이다. 첫 번째는 일반적인 전시방식에서 벗어나 패션쇼를 갤러리에 끌어들임으로써 관람자와의 소통을 위한 적극적 전시방법을 제시한다. 두 번째는 장신구와 의상과의 소통을 위해 의류브랜드와의 콜라보레이션 프로젝트를 기획하고 적극적 전시홍보를 위해 패션브랜드 매장에서의 전시방법을 제시한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.213-235
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to recognize the meanings of plastic language by analyzing the sign of the Graffiti depicted in western modern costumes. And the scope of this study was focused on analysing the costumes from 1980's when the Graffiti was recognized as one of the plastic arts. Graffiti was an unprofessional and covert desire of self-expression, having a close relation with our lives. It was used in diverse ways with repeating creation, development, and extinction, from expressing liveliness in Old Stone Age through describing symbolic meaning in the modern art. Graffiti means rude, humorous, or political writing and pictures on the walls of buildings. It's different from the delicate letters or pictures to inscript on the tree or rocks. Being introduced as part of Post-modernism in the 1970s, Graffiti was acknowledged as a new artistic action with the culture of hip-hop. In addition the Graffiti, the expression of sign was reflected artist's internal consciousness with boundless sign. The sign is something to transmit message from the nonverbal point of view, the oldest sign was the sign for petition or the expression of something as a primitive form. Sign can be defined as a framework of life inherited as a practice from the primitive age long past. Graffiti was cited as a concrete example of sign, theme of this paper, and general understanding on sign expression was pursued through free work which all artists present with essential and positive ways using signs, their own languages, and life style. The result of this study was summarized as follows: Since the end of the 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have represented symbolic images, such as letter and signs, as purely personal ways of expression through the western costumes. It was found that fashion designers of the Graffiti whose free work style from inherent inner consciousness might provide a basic framework to search for complex signs of modem costumes naturally understood life itself as plastic art, and sublimated human inherent desire and their inner world through their works.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.