• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.128-142
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• 2014

In the new media age, the importance of personal style is highlighted, as the fashion recipients independently create their own images by transforming and recombining the fashion information gathered from the fashion blogs - the most representative form of social networks. The study aims to identify the types and styles of imaginary ego-images represented on the personal fashion blogs as a new space of self-expression, based on Lacan's gaze; the imaginary of the unconscious world and the ego-concept. According to literature search, the imaginary ego-image is classified as narcissism, regression, identification, and virtuality. In the case study, Narcissism is represented mostly as bloggers' satisfaction and beliefs about their fashion styles. The degeneration represents childhood images including a mother, as well as retro and vintage images that recreate the fashions of bygone eras - such as medieval, $19^{th}$ or 20th century fashion. Identification is the connection with the various areas of culture and art, especially movies and music. Virtuality represents hypothetical situations of mythical, fairy tale-like, surreal, or dreamlike atmospheres and hypothetical bodies that appear removed, disassembled, or crooked. The imaginary ego-images emerged on the personal fashion blogs are also classified into specific style depending on the attributes of the ego images-such as kidult style, retro style, ethnic style, and surreal style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.588-599
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• 2016

The primary aim of this study was to analyze the fashion trend of wearing T-shirts with slogans at home and abroad and to consider the social influence of these shirts on fashion. The research method was based on the documentary method and the existing literature, and the study range was limited to the period from the middle of the 20th century to the present. Slogan T-shirts played important roles because they make the wearers highly visible wherever they go. T-shirts with slogans not only intentionally expressed the wearers' views on multiple social issues but they also made those issues more visible, thereby encouraging society to deal with them. The T-shirts also helped to form a social consensus regarding the issues. For this reason we referred to slogan T-shirts as 'the social fashion' in this research. Regarding the results, the research found that T-shirts with slogans were a social fashion that conveyed real political slogans and thus influenced people's political beliefs. Second, they politicized the issues in public interests with the public perspective. Third, the purpose of slogan T-shirts was to help people express their personality publicly and thereby bond with other people who held similar sympathies. Furthermore, the T-shirts conveyed multiple meanings in each message.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.24-36
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• 2006

The consumption became a virtue of social in 20th century, and this consumption culture created an ideal body image through mass media. Sexual image became a new standard of 'beauty' in a modern fashion, and designs which expressed sexual image appear every season. Individuals were fascinated with some parts of human body. These body parts are different based on the time period and the culture that the individual belonged to. This study focused on the erotic body parts and expression on the editorial fashion photography. Eroticism represented in the editorial fashion photographs can be divided into the expression by clothing design and by creating erotic atmospheres. Erotic expressions by clothing design can be presented by 1)exposing directly 2)exposing indirectly 3)emphasizing the body parts. The most frequently presented erotic body parts in fashion photographs were legs(25%), followed by the bodice with breast (21%), the waist (16%), the hip (12%), neck & shoulder (10%), arms (9%), and abdomen (7%). The results indicated that legs were considered to be a erotic body parts often than the traditionally referred erotic body parts, such as bodice with breast or hip. While direct exposing method (e.g., adhesion, see-though) was frequently used for other body parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.105-117
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.705-715
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• 2020

The domestic fashion industry of the middle and late 20th century emphasized the importance of a standardized design process; however, the values of differentiated brand individuality have become increasingly important with the qualitative·quantitative growth of designer brands. Therefore, paying attention to designer individuality (or a differentiated element of a designer brand growing up in the domestic fashion industry) this study reestablished factors of the designer brand individuality. An in-depth interview was conducted with 13 designers and consumers for empirical analysis. In order to identify concepts of designer individuality based on the theory of the brand personality by Aaker along with precedent studies, the study devised a theoretical frame to explain a conceptual structure of designer brand individuality as well as reestablish its factors as the designer individuality, design and non-design factors through empirical research. Empirical research derived the designer individuality factors as an external designer image, designer taste, design philosophy and designer personality. Design factors were derived as concept, working process and method, style and formativeness. Non-design factors were also extracted as wearing experience, wearer image, lookbook image, fashion shows and exhibitions. It is meaningful that little empirical research has been conducted on domestic fashion designers who actually run designer brands and that this study helped understand designer brands through a new approach called designer individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.29-38
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• 2005

Nowadays, fashion is high evaluated as a mean of self expression as well as a formative art itself, The moderns' elevated beauty sense and strong desire for individuality expression have not only advanced various and refined fashion presentation but also led to expansion of fashion to a total coordination covering hair and makeup. Of them, hair styling does play an important role in rounding out the various image of fashion. It is not only far from omittable part but also, out of simplicity in the past, taking formative characteristics in form and structure day by day. Especially, artistic elements of modern arts are being introduced as motives, and of which representative is e introduction of kinetic art which is thought the artistic approval on mechanization trend in the 20th century. Thus, the study was intended to investigate how and in what forms the various features of kinetic arts is reflected in the modern hair shaping, and to suggest a new prospect of kinetic art-applied hair shaping.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.187-205
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to research into a meaning of Mexican Mural and to clarify on the internal significance of Muralism in the modern fashion. Nuralism is an example of the brith of the great people's art. The mural Fine art in mexico was the peculiar fine art campaign which observed the social function. And the mural of Mexican that the ideology and fine art combined came to occupy the unprecedented important position as a part of popular education which is the product of Mexico revolution. Thus in this study considered that the background of Mexican Mural in 1930's resembled the social and cultural background of the latter half of 20th century. The internal significance of Muralism expressed in the modern fashion was categorized as attaching importance to human the pursuit of the utopia the tendency to nationalism Satriric and moral painting. First Attaching importance to human in the modern fashion expressed the recovery of humanity by meaning in opposition to moral crisis of the human in the pluralistic society. Second The pursuit of the utopia in terms of interest the ideal way in the modern fashion expressed mysterious or hopeful through using religious colors motivies etc. Third The tendency to nationalism in the modern fashion expressed the painting of the masses in forms of mixing aboriginal culture elements and memorial elements. Fourth Satiric and moral painting in the modern fashion expressed wits or humorous style through using geometrical motives and light colors etc, indirectly expressed distress of modern men.