• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.12
• /
• pp.1933-1946
• /
• 2010

This paper is a comparative analysis of the $19^{th}$ century practice of indigo dyes and dyeing in Korea and England. From over hundreds species of indigo plants in the world, it was dyer's knotweed and woad that were cultivated in Korea; however, the only indigo plant grown in England was woad. Indigo dye was produced in the form of damp indigo sediment (jeon) in Korea; however, imported indigo (as a main dye) and couched woad (as an additional dye) were indigo dyes used in England. There existed three kinds of indigo vats, the ice vat, ash-water vat, and indigo sediment (jeon) vat, in Korea. The fresh leaves of indigo were used for both the ice vat and ash-water vat. The ice vat was very convenient for preparation, but had a weakness in the inability to produce a very deep shade of blue. The ash-water vat and indigo sediment (jeon) vat were in use for producing a very deep shade of blue. The indigo sediment Goon) vat was employed presumably only by professional dyers. The indigo vat practiced in England was categorized into two types; one was woad-indigo vat, and the other was an indigo powder vat prepared by using imported indigo rock. There was a tendency to adopt different kinds of indigo vats according to the material to be dyed. The woad-indigo vat was employed for the dyeing of wool. A few of chemical vats with imported indigo were adopted, especially for the dyeing of cotton. Indigo dyers in 19th century Korea were differentiated from the rest of the dyers. They managed the growing of indigo plants as well as the production of indigo sediment (jeon). Woad dyers in 19th century England handled woolen cloth as well as worsted and woolen yarn in general. However, they sometimes dyed silk skein as well. They produced several colors such as black, blue, slates, grays, by using both woad and imported indigo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.13-28
• /
• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.105-119
• /
• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.5
• /
• pp.145-154
• /
• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
• /
• v.43 no.6
• /
• pp.858-872
• /
• 2008

This study examined the meteorological disaster of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty based on historical documents, and analyzed how its government and Jeju Islanders responded to this. Recording cases of abnormal weather days of Jeju Island in Chosun Dynasty were most in 17th Century, and then in 18th Century, 16th Century, 15th Century, and 19th Century in order. For the type of meteorological disaster, storm damage was most serious, and then flood disaster, drought disaster, and snow damage were in order. For the region, Jejumok was mostly damaged from storm and flood, and Daejeonghyeon was mostly from drought. Once meteorological disaster occurred, it was a common thing that it continued with famine. The Chosun government relieved Jeju Islanders by moving the grains of mainland into Jeju Island, and for this, installed Galdujin warehouse, Naripo warehouse, and Jemin warehouse. Also, it tried to resolve chronic famine by moving Jeju people into mainland such as Pyeong'an-do. Corresponding to severe weather, the farmers of Jeju Island implemented agricultural methods such as Dapjeon, Baryeong, molding, and wind-breaking; and the seamen conducted unique arts of navigation such as Hwanjeon, and gravel shipment.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• no.25
• /
• pp.61-67
• /
• 2000

The goals and meanings of this papers are set up to analyse the trend of Design immerged in 21st century with studying Fusion culture which is related with Digital concept that is the most spot-lighted in 21st century and summarizing the effects of this tendency given to Design. We are experiencing Digital Revolution which leads us from Analog Society to Digital society. Also, this means that New Millenium starts with characteristics of [End of Century]. I focus on the concept of Fusion-design, in the view of Art-Nouveau and Post-Modernism which came over the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20th century. Furthermore, I define the Fusion-design of Digital era and find the way that design of 21st century develops.

• The Southeast Asian review
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.249-286
• /
• 2011

This study examines the nature of the world order or the international relations of the 19th century Vietnam. Those who are familiar with the Chinese world order based on the tributary system, have applied the quasi-Chinese world order concept to Vietnam by the terms of 'smaller dragon,' 'little China,' and 'Chinese model.' According to this way of understanding, Vietnamese empire was the imitation or the small sized version of the Chinese empire. Examples are to label Vietnamese emperor as the "Southeast Asian version of the Chinese emperor" or "an absolute photocopy of the Chinese world order." But the author of this article raises questions to this framework of the Chinese Model, and looks for the Vietnamese own world order based on the Southeast Asian tradition. Two issues are discussed in this study. First is the Vietnamese relationships with Southeast Asia. According to author, the first concern of Vietnam in relation to diplomatic relations was to the Mainland Southeast Asian countries. To clarify the contacts with Southeast Asia and Western powers, Vietnamese relationships with the regions of Island Southeast Asian countries were also examined. Second issue is to see the ways how Vietnam maintained its own world order in the course of wars and diplomacy with China. Author argues that the world order of the 19th century Vietnam was closer to the traditional world order of mandala in the Southeast Asia than to the quasi Chinese world order. The relationships among the countries were rather equal than hierarchical. Vietnam regarded the countries of Southeast Asia especially Thailand and Burma as the equal countries. China was one of the equal countries to the eyes of Vietnamese leaders and Vietnam did not have enough room to embody the quasi Chinese world order though the Vietnamese rulers used the titles of emperor, which was the Vietnamese version of Southeast Asian 'king.' In conclusion, the world order of Vietnam is summarized into the two facets of $l{\hat{a}}n$ giao(diplomatic relations with neighbors) and bang giao(diplomatic relations between two countries i.e. Vietnam and China). $l{\hat{a}}n$ giao was to the countries of Southeast Asia while the bang giao was the term and concept for the diplomatic relationship with China. These two relationships composed Vietnamese foreign relationship, ngo?i giao. Author claims that these two relations were based on the spirit of equality that emerged from the beginning of the 19th century.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.203-206
• /
• 2010

We examined five astronomical variables formulas of the two conventional harmonic prediction programs (IOS tidal package (IOS) and Task-2000 tidal package (Task2K)) in relation to hindcast of paleo-tides and -tidal currents on historical navel battlefields such as Myeongryang Naval Battle (September 16th, 1597 according to the lunar calendar). Through the comparison of the resultant values in a certain time (00:00 January 1) of each year (1801, 1800 and 1597) calculated from the two different formulas, we understood that the reason why Task2K is incapable of hindcating them in pre-19th century, Specifically, we found that the Task2K formulas directly using the Gregorian calendar date did not identify leap years in calculating astronomical variables beyond the period of 1801-2099. Therefore, the IOS's formulas, which use the day number referenced on midnight 1/1/0000, are recommended for use in hindcasting paleo-tides and -tidal currents on historical navel battles in pre-19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.53-59
• /
• 1976

Around 2nd century B. C. two varieties of apple, i. e. 'Nay' and 'Imgum' were already grown in China. It can be suspected that 'Nay' came from the West because of its popular word 'Pyn Por' and 'Imgum' was originated from North East Asia because of its word 'Lii Kiem'. After this time 'Imgum' was called as its popular name 'Sha Guoo' in about 15 th century. In 17th century a new variety of 'Nay' was named as 'Pyng Guoo' and this name was replaced with 'Nay' when the variety was widely supplied. In 19th century a better variety of 'Nay' was developed in the West and it was introduced into China in 20th century which was called 'Western Pyng Guoo'. As a result there were two kinds of 'Pyng Guoo', i. e. 'Chinese Pyng Guoo' and 'Western Pyng Guoo'. However, the 'Western Pyng Guoo' was more supplied and it was said 'Pyng Guoo' which was written as 'Pyng Guoo(?果)' or 'Pyng Guoo (平果)'. At present time apples were classified into 'Sha Guoo' and 'Pyng Guoo'. The old 'Nay' is now called 'Bin Tzyy' which is hardly found. From this study it is suspected that the history of Chinese apples were affected much on our introduction history and its naming.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.30 no.2
• /
• pp.19-28
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study is to research about the construction of Chiseong around the Heunginjimun Gate area in the 18th century. the conclusions derived from the historical evidence of the number, location, size, and form, and construction method of Chiseong was as follows. First, the Chiseong(Square-shaped lookout) of Hanyangdoseong was built in the 29th year of King Yeongjo(1753) and can be found in the national record. Five sites of the Chiseong are currently identified. It is assumed that the Foru was installed on top of some of the Chiseongs. Second, Chiseong was destroyed sequentially in the first half of the 20th century. Third, Chiseong is a rectangular in shape and six are constructed. Fourth, Sixth Chiseong could figure out through Hengryeopungsokdo, the drawing of Jeong Seon.