• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.145-157
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.49-62
• /
• 2004

By delivery means of fashion information, fashion dolls appeared in 18th century. According to development of printing, delivery means of fashion information changed from fashion dolls to fashion plates. Fashion plates offer a colorful and in depth view of the stylish fashions of the past. First fashion plate was Hollars print that was inserted to $\ulcorner$La Galerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$ and that was published at England in 1643. First fashion plate in France could assumes as winter deshabill that was inserted to $\ulcorner$Le Mercure Galant$\lrcorner$ in 1678. The widespred publication of fashion plates began in England and France in the late 18th century. The first true fashion magazine $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\lrcorner$ was published at London in 1770. And suddenly similar plates were being published all over Europe. Fashion plates reached their height of popularity in the mid-1800s. Modern age in Europe for fashion magazines golden age, hundreds kinds of fashion magazines published in Europe. Copyright laws in Europe were not enforced, resulting in widespread piracy of fashion designs and plates. After 19th century, America and Europe used much Paris imitation plate. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\boxUl$, $\ulcorner$La Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Les Cabinet des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$The Ladys Monthly Museum$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 18th century. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Pocket Magazine$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Le Follet$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode Illustree$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$$\ulcorner$The Queen$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 19th century. $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Gazette du bon ton$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in early 20th century.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권8호
• /
• pp.49-65
• /
• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제29권6호
• /
• pp.89-100
• /
• 2020

This paper sought to examine characteristics and differences of the construction methods and the materials of the wall repair by three command through individual command records and national documents. This paper is based on the management section of three commands(Samgunyoung), which was in charge of a repair and management of Hanyangdoseong(Seoul city wall) in 18th century. The purpose and background of the study are as follows. First, through each inscribed stones on the rampart and the parapet, it is to grasp accurately the point of change of Hanyangdoseng after the 18th century. Second, through inscribed stones, the site evidence of the repair work in the late Joseon Dynasty, it is to find out the aspects of the development process of repair and reconstruction technology of Hanyangdoseng.

• 한국주거학회논문집
• /
• 제14권6호
• /
• pp.105-114
• /
• 2003

This study aims to investigate the thoughts of the utopians for the ideal community in 19th century. Around late 18th century, the ideal community proposals by the utopians were coming out as an alternative to reform the social and economical structure. The experimental community proposals which suggested by the utopian socialists such as Robert Owen and Charles Fourier took their emphasis on the social reform to improve the environment of work in terms of social and economical organization. While the thoughts of ideal community showing up in the literature by utopians were based on the state socialism that accompanied by the ultimate corrective system of production and distribution and the unified social system, the physical organization was described in more detail without a restriction in contrast to the real proposals for the ideal community. Based on the experimental community and the ideal community in the literature in 19th century, the urban model of late 19th century were proposed as a real community model. With the optimistic belief to the technological development resulted from the Industrial Revolution, the urban models of utopia placed greater emphasis on the physical organization than the previous ideal communities in 19th century and had much influence on the modern urban planning in 20th century.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제17권4호
• /
• pp.90-106
• /
• 2013

This study investigated the development of eyeglasses and design transition in materials and types through literature survey. The scope of this study on the basis of the 15th century, for this study survey reaches from the 15th century to modern. The result of this study were as follows. Real magnifying glasses was first mentioned by the Arab physicist al-Hazen who was famous of his treatise on optics. The oldest documents which explicitly refer to the art of making lenses for eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were the Venetian artisans of 1300. In the 15th century someone thought to remedy the unstability of glasses by securing the bridge on the forehead. But it was only in the 17th century that someone contrived to stabilize the frame by strapping it on the face by means of fine cords that reached behind the ears. Eventually in the early years of the 18th century the English optician Edward Scarlett invented the rigid earpieces which solved once and for all the problem of holding the eyeglasses firmly in place. In the 19th century, eyeglasses' fashion were monocle and pince-nez. In the 20th century, various lenses and frames were appeared. Therefore eyeglasses to correct defective sight, sun-glasses, as well as a most succesful item among modern fashion accessories.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.205-216
• /
• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.65-74
• /
• 2003

The Purpose of this study is to investigate the jeogori included in the buddist statue in 1748. The jeogori was similar in shape to excavated costume of Andong Kwon, Papyung Yoon, and Chungyeongunju in 18th century. This jeogori was useful to estimate the interesting process of shape change of jeogori in 18th century. Four different silk fabrics were used in the jeogori. Outer fabrics were satin weave with floral, lattice strip, dragon, and cloud patterns. The ground area was 5-harness warp faced satin and the patterned area was 5-harness filling faced satin. An inner fabric was simple plain weave. Warp and filling yarns of all fabrics in this jeogori had no twist.

• 대한음성학회지:말소리
• /
• 제48호
• /
• pp.35-55
• /
• 2003

The aim of this study is to clarify the process of the sound changes of Japanese consonants (Dakuons) in the analysis of the transcriptions of Korean Source-Materials (i.e. Japanese textbooks for Korean and the records of travel in Japan) written in the 15-l8th centuries with the Korean writing system. Especially these records of travel in Japan are meaningful in that the process of change of Dakuon is shown in detail. The results are as follows. 1) In the 15th century, all Dakuons /g d z b/ had nasality. 2) The nasality of /z/ and /b/ disappeared in the 16th century. 3) The nasality of /d/ disappeared in the late 17th century.

• 기호학연구
• /
• 제57호
• /
• pp.91-120
• /
• 2018

이 논문은 18세기 가사 작품인 옥국재 이운영의 <임천별곡(林川別曲)>에 나타난 근대성 양상에 대해 고찰해 보고자 한다. 18세기는 시대적으로 파격적인 모습을 형성한 시기였다. 그렇기 때문에 근대성을 드러내기에는 가장 알맞은 시기라고 할 수 있다. 이 시기는 정치, 경제, 사회, 문화적인 면에서도 사상과 체제의 변화가 일어났고, 봉건사회 붕괴의 가장 큰 요인인 신분체계가 흔들렸다. 이 변화는 새로운 근대의식이 시작되는 시기라고 볼 수 있다. <임천별곡(林川別曲)>은 이운영의 자전적인 이야기라고 보는 경향도 있다. 이는 이운영이 진보적인 실학사상을 가지고 있다고는 하지만 양반됨을 욕보이면서 자신의 처지를 드러내지는 않았을 것으로 보인다. 이에 논자는 여항으로부터 전해들은 이야기가 현실적으로 더 타당하다고 여겨진다. 또한, <임천별곡(林川別曲)>은 애정가사로 알려졌지만, 풍자비판적인 특징이 강하기에 애정가사로 보기 어렵다는 견해이며, 서사적 양상이 대화체라는 특이한 형식으로 서술되고 있다는 것이 특징이다. <임천별곡(林川別曲)>에 드러난 근대성 양상으로는 두 가지를 꼽았다. 하나는 '사랑과 욕망에 대한 저항'이고 다른 하나는 '신분질서의 해체'이다. 그레마스 행위소 모형으로 이 두 가지 양상을 제시하였다. <임천별곡>은 유교적 이데올로기, 신분제도 등의 조선의 봉건사회에 대한 저항과 반항의 형태로 이타적인 요소들에 대한 변화하는 근대적 조선을 드러내고자 하는 노력의 성과라 할 수 있다. 논자는 '저항'과 '해체'라는 말로 대신하였지만, 18세기 조선의 봉건사회에 대한 부패한 지배층과 착취당하는 서민층의 삶을 늙은 생원과 할멈으로 비유하여 제시하였던 것이다. 18세기 등장한 전통적인 봉건사회의 비판은 중세와 근대를 구별 짓는 헤게모니의 변화로 드러났고, 이러한 헤게모니의 변화는 18세기 전후의 차이를 드러내는 결과를 낳게 되었다. 18세기 가사문학에서는 이러한 헤게모니가 정확하게 구분되지는 못하였지만, 19세기에 이르러서는 정착되어 발전하는 양상을 보였다고 할 수 있다. 논자는 이러한 변화를 이끌어 내는데 중요한 역할을 한 작품으로 <임천별곡>이 있음을 제시하였다.