• 대한음성학회지:말소리
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• 제48호
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• pp.35-55
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• 2003

The aim of this study is to clarify the process of the sound changes of Japanese consonants (Dakuons) in the analysis of the transcriptions of Korean Source-Materials (i.e. Japanese textbooks for Korean and the records of travel in Japan) written in the 15-l8th centuries with the Korean writing system. Especially these records of travel in Japan are meaningful in that the process of change of Dakuon is shown in detail. The results are as follows. 1) In the 15th century, all Dakuons /g d z b/ had nasality. 2) The nasality of /z/ and /b/ disappeared in the 16th century. 3) The nasality of /d/ disappeared in the late 17th century.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.36-52
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• 2008

Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.145-154
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• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.10-24
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• 2017

관동팔경의 형성과정에 주목하여, 문헌 및 도상자료의 분석과 해석을 통해 관동 명승의 집경에 따른 팔경 형상화 및 정착시기를 탐색한 본 연구의 결론은 다음과 같다. '관동팔경(關東八景)'이란 최초 용례(用例)는 이황의 "답홍응길(答洪應吉)"로 볼 때, 관동팔경은 이미 16세기 이전 당시 인들의 인식 속에 존재하였을 것으로 추론된다. "신증동국여지승람"을 비롯한 지리지 분석 결과, 관동팔경은 16세기 초 중반에 관동십경으로의 확장 또한 이루어졌다. 최초의 관동팔경에 대한 집경은 신즙의 "영관동팔경(詠關東八景)"으로 확인됨에 따라 관동팔경이라는 용어는 문학 분야에서는 최소한 16세기 이전부터 존재하였으며 현재의 세트화된 관동팔경으로 정착된 시기는 늦어도 17세기 초반이라 추정된다. 관동 명승의 출현빈도 분석 결과, 시문에 등장한 관동 명승은 관동팔경 경물에 대한 집중현상이 뚜렷하였다. 한편 회화 분야에서 오로지 관동팔경만을 모은 그림은 허필의 "관동팔경도병(關東八景圖屛)"에서 최초로 확인되는데 실경산수화에서 표현된 관동팔경은 시문에서의 집경 양상과 유사한 경향을 보이지만 화제 출현률 순위로 볼 때 시각적 결속력과 응집성이 더욱 강하게 드러났다 이는 일정한 관념체계 상 특정 의의를 지닌 회화의 도상(圖像)을 중요시하는 특성이 반영된 결과로 판단된다. 더불어 조선 후기에서 근대에 들어 제작된 다수의 민화 형식의 팔폭병풍(八幅屛風)은 관동팔경의 문화현상이 보편적 수용기에 접어들었음을 알리는 증좌이다. 또한 조선후기 성행한 남승도놀이 등 명승유람놀이에 등장하는 강원도내 13개의 명승에는 관동팔경이 오롯이 나타나고 있음을 볼 때 조선 말기 관동팔경은 놀이문화 속에서도 확고하게 정착된 것으로 보인다. 이와 같은 결과를 종합할 때, 관동팔경의 인식은 15세기 전반 이전부터 있어 온 것으로 보이고, 16세기 형상화 과정의 지속적 전개를 통해 17세기 정착되었으며 18세기에 들어 관습화 보편화 된 것으로 추정된다. 궁극적으로 관동팔경은 고려시대부터 별개의 경물로 명성을 얻은 지역 명승이 17세기 후반 구체적으로 형상화되었음을 알 수 있다. 관동 명승 중에 관동팔경은 오랜 기간 여러 사람의 탐승과 유람문화 향유(享有)를 통해 오직 여덟 개의 최상의 명소만을 추리기 위한 절차탁마(切磋琢磨)의 과정을 거쳐 형성되고 배태된 국내 대표적 팔경임을 일깨워준다.

• 대한지리학회지
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• 제43권6호
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• pp.858-872
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• 2008

본 연구는 사료를 기초로 조선시대 제주도의 기상재해에 대하여 살펴보고, 정부와 제주민들은 이에 어떻게 대응했는지를 분석하였다. 조선시대 제주도의 기상 특이일 기록 건수는 17세기가 가장 많았고, 18세기, 16세기, 15세기, 19세기 순으로 나타났다. 기상재해의 유형별로는 풍해가 가장 많았고, 수해, 한해(旱害), 설동해 순으로 나타났다. 지역별로는 제주목이 풍해와 수해가 많았고, 대정현은 한해가 많았다. 기상재해가 발생하면 기근으로 이어지는 것이 상례였다. 정부에서는 한반도의 곡식을 제주도로 이전하여 백성을 구제하였으며, 이를 위해 갈두진창, 나리포창, 제민창을 설치하였다. 또한 제주도 백성을 평안도 등 한반도로 이주시켜 만성적인 기근을 해결하고자 했다. 이상 기후에 대응하여 제주도 농민들은 답전, 바령, 복토, 방풍 등의 농법을 행하였고, 해민들은 환전, 석력 선적 등의 항해술을 행하였다.

• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.157-173
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• 1997

The Mannerism which was born on Italy in 16th century was the critical trend of art influencing the political economical and psychological trends and was the first mo-dality which respected the individual sense of artist. The cultural situation of that time es-pecially the alienation of men is similar to the pluralism of value the coexistency of conflict the acceptance of heterogeneity and uncer-tainty I modern century. This paper analysed the pattern of change in the trend of Mannerism in modern costume by comparing current trend from the past focus-ing th fact that the over-all situation in this century is similar to that of Mannerism in 16th century. In this paper the author suggests the Defor-mation Ambiguity and Irreglarity as the character of manneristic trend which has re-solved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression. The results of comparing the characteristic of mannerism to the modern costume is followd; 1. The Deformation in modern costume is grossly subdivided to the transfrmation of morphology the transformation of scale and the breakdown of equilibrium 2. The ambiguity in the modern costume can be subdivided to the eclecticistic expression and the ambiguity of spatial concept(between inner and outer garments). 3. The illogiclities in modern costume are the technique of illusion structural illogicality and the collage technique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.77-77
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• 2003

If we look closely to the power shift of the powerful countries historically. during the 16th century Spain's power came from gold, colony trade, the mercenary force, close relation with the thrown, 17th century Netherlands owes their power to trade, capital market, the marines, 18th century France owes it to population, agriculture, public administration, and the army. Also, England had their industry, political unity, finance and trust, the marines, liberalistic principles, a geographical merit of being an island which can be defended well and the 20th century America has their cosmopolitan culture, supernational communication, the capacity of the economy, science technology, military strength, alliances, liberalism international formation. But in the 21st century culture and art will prevail over the information age where technology and knowledge was the key, and it is predicted that this will be the source of power for a strong country. Rolfe Yesson, the head of The Copenhagen Research Center for future studies said, "Information age has ended and in the future Dream Society will arrive which focuses on making distinctions by delivering dreams and emotions to consumers". As cyberspace gradually substitutes reality, cyberspace has become more than an information search engine and has become a place where people fulfill their desires and exchange culture. And as a medium for diffusing culture, the importance of the digital dress-up avatar is predicted to increase gradually.gradually.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.